20 Most Recent 1993 GMC Suburban - Page 2 Questions & Answers

auto transmission 4L60E sounds like stuck in first gear this problem is very common broken 2-4 band trans removal is required to replace it. remove pan remove tcc soleniod remove pump remove band end broken on servo side.

Try diconnecting the battery for a minute or so, then reconnect it. the computer should reset itself, and hopefully the light will go out.

Where is the leak? Master cylinder?

No sure what it is you need to know?

Yes it will, if the intake valves dont close on time, the piston is coming close with some compression which will sent back to the intake.I hope this helps!

Should be on the side of the block.

Sounds like a vacuum leak probably at the modulator valve on or close to the transmission.

gmc and chey had problems with curcit boards in the tail ight assembly try replacing them

I have been chasing this issue for a few weeks now, complete tune up, checked for clogged catalytic convertor by dropping Y-pipe, changed, IAC valve, PCV, TPS, EGR valve, checked all hoses for cracks or leaks, fuel filter, removed throttle body cleaned and inspected it fully with all new gaskets as well as fuel pressure regulator, and even swapped out the factory coil with an aftermarket unit that produces 48.000 volts, and I was reading other fix it sites and it was mentioned replace the Distributor, because the pick up coil in my current unit is getting overly heat soaked and saturated, well I figured I did'nt have anything to lose at this point, so I picked one of my racing catalogs and obtained a new Billet Aluminum unit for just under $150.00 and problem solved (woo hoo!) my vehicle has just hit 320,000 miles on it and it runs AMAZING, it's all stock with only a Dynomax 3in. exhaust system for performance and sound since it was time to replace the factory cat back, I hope this helps the next person! Slick1

Tools needed to do a brake job are a hydraulic floor jack, stand jacks, metric and standard size sockets, box wrenches, etc., 6" C-clamp, oil catch pans, and vacuum pump/brake. bleeder------------------------------------------------------------------------------------super vag k can v4.8

gm is known for their anti-lock brake problems the most likely problem is a build up under the sensor since u have a 93 the abs sensor is incorporated into the hub cheaper to replace the hub w/sensor than to just replace the sensor the hub is not that hard to replace in the 2wd or 4wd----to clean mount jack up vehicle remove the wheel brake caliper,caliper bracket ,rotor and the abs sensor will be in view check the connection and the condition of sensor into the hub if lot of road grime or rust build up use a brush to clean area around sensor than using an allen key remove sensor careful pull straight up plug hole and clean small mounting plate replace sensor ------to replace hub do same in removing components but than need to unbolt hub from rear on 4wd also need to remove cv drive nut replace hub and done

fuses located junction box below instrument panel to the left of the steering column.look

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?fromSearchPage=true&pageId=0996b43f80c90f33&partName=Ignition+Switch&partId=0996b43f80c90f33 Here's a link on how to do the igniton switch job.

Get another advice,Your make model and year some especially the 4X4 suffer from erratic shifts,low power,late shift and early shif and has been traced to the TCM (transmission control module), and does not set a code, if the mechanic changed the timing he advance the timing for power,but as you said got worse,So the powertrain management would set a DTC (check engine light),The transmission need to be closely look at,

the o rings on the fuel injectors are leaking and when you let off of the pedal it creates a rich condition untill it can adjust fuel trim . remove the intake upper and the fuel system is exposed replace the whole thing or get o -rings and fuel lines but the injectors were none to clog so you should replace the whole unit auto zone and advance allways has in stock its that common

MIKE.
#1) YOU PROBEBLY HAVE A BAD BLOWER MOTOR OR POSS. A BURNT CONNECTION @ THE MOTOR. IF THE FAN WORKS ON ALL SPEEDS EVEN INTERMITTENTLY. THEN THE BLOWER RESISTOR IS OK WICH CONTROLLS THE VOLTAGE TO THE MOTOR TO GET THE DIFFERENT SPEEDS. WHEN THE RESISTOR BURNS OUT THE FAN JUST WON'T WORK ON CERTAIN SPEEDS. THE "RELAY" IS ONLY USED FOR HI-SPEED FAN USE. TRY HITTING THE MOTOR WHEN YOU GET IT NOT TO WORK AND IF IT STARTS THN YOU HAVE A BAD MOTOR.

#2) THE NOISE YOU HEAR WHEN TURNING THE IGN. ON AND OFF IS PROBABLY THE DEFROST DOOR CONTROLL ACTUATOR/MOTOR WICH HAS A POTENTIOMETER IN IT THAT TELLS IT WHEN TO STOP MOVING AS IT REACHES THE CORRECT POSITION. WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY OFF IT BY FEDERAL LAW HAS TO RETURN TO THE DEFROST POSITION IN CASE OF FAILURE. THE LITTLE SPLINES IN THE MOTOR OR ON THE SHAFT CAN GET STRIPPED WHEN THIS HAPPENS. TRY DUPLICATING THE NOISE BY SELECTING THE DEFROST ON AND OFF WITH THE KEY ON.
I WILL CHECK FOR YOUR FEEDBACK LATER