20 Most Recent
1993 GMC Yukon Questions & Answers
Rear main seal leaks
The only way to repair this is to either pull the engine or transmission. It has a one piece seal. So, in order to repair it the engine and transmission has to be taken apart. Also, the old seal has probably cut a groove in the crankshaft. So, a repair sleeve will need to be installed on the crankshaft to provide a smooth surface for the new seal to ride on.
Oil cooler lines wont screw into radiator
Guess you did not get the same lines as what you had. You got the length but not the correct thread type for you car. Most USA equipment runs BSP pipe fittings but imported units run metric. have some one apply a thread gauge to your fittings and compare to old fittings and get the same threads
My brake fluid is leeking on the master cilinder
When brake units leak the best solution is just to replace the unit with a brand new OEM unit as it generally costs more to repair than a new one and the repaired unit lasts about half the life of a new unit. Replace the brake master cyl.
4wd will not engage
might be a a bad switch @ where you engage 4wd, floor shift, or dash switch, if floor shift, look under truck @ shift location. get a repair manuel, figure it out. simple.
When i turn my truck to the left or right the
It sounds like your front 4x4 actuator on the front differential has locked up. It's common to happen and the fork that engages the 4X4 in the differential is still locked up or partially locked up.
On the full size, the front actuator is electric, not vacuum.
When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12 volts out to the actuator. Wire #50 (brown) is the 12v feed, and it conducts to the light blue wire (#900) to the actuator.
When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator.
Check voltage at the connector for the front actuator (at the front differential - it looks like a large bullet that threads into the front diff.) If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. If it does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power feed to the transfer case.
I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd.
The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage. When it heats, the pin in the end swells and pushes a shift fork in the front differential. The shift fork engages a spline on the passenger side of the differential, and boom! you have 4WD.
GM offered an upgrade to this actuator that is a motor instead of a heated device. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer, and a new actuator. It is about a $150 to $200 option.
If I were you, I would buy a new heated actuator. They are available at most auto parts stores, and are about $90. They are also on eBay for about $55 plus shipping. These are very easy to change - just thread out the old one, and thread in a new one.
Good luck. The actuator is usually the problem 90% of time but recheck all of the wire harness just to maker sure there is no short before replacing any parts.
http://www.getdieselpower.com/misc_auto/actuator_upgrade/GM_TRUCK_4X4_ACTUATOR_UPGRADE.html
Im wondering if the IAC would make my idle
Hi Dirtcrazy, Depending on which type of climate control is fitted to your vehicle, (if it is automatic or manually controlled) it will have either one or two 'up idle' solenoids. These are electrically operated vacuum controls which are sometimes adjustable and sometimes preset. They or it will be fitted in different places on different vehicle. It is difficult to know where on your vehicle as we do not know which vehicle it is? locate the 'up idle' solenoid and make sure that the vacuum tube connections are not cracked, broken or loose. The defects noted would result in the fluctuating idle speed you're referring to. Regards John.
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