20 Most Recent 1999 GMC Sonoma - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Is the pump getting power? Is fuel being injected? Do you have any OBD2 fault codes in memory on a fault code test from the diagnostic port under the dash?

The eighth digit in the vin# tells you what engine is in it. 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder. They can not be swapped.

check for fuse for the low beam relays or relays

There is a shifter unlock cable( not plug in or loose). The only thing with the cylinder replacement may be a relearn for security. This kills the engine, doesn't mess with the shifter or transmission.

passenger side engine up above oil pan under exhaust its tight spot 10 chevey starter repacement

Did you check fuses
Did you check battery ground wire
Did you inspect wires to battery
Did you check wires for corrosion or loose
Did you test battery
Did you boost it did it start or not
If it started replace battery
If It did not start check starter relay
It most likely is a fuss or relay
You can try tapping the starter when t
You are trying to start it or you can take starter out and Bechtel test it.

ADJUST IT, STUDY HOW IT WORKS, WHY ITS LOOSE, USE COMMON SENCE, GET UNDERNEATH AND MAKE IT HAPPEN ! GO FOR IT

There are really only two possibilities there. One could be a leaking heater hose. That would be the good news. The other would be a rusted out freeze plug. That would be the bad news since it may be difficult to replace it where it is.

Do you know how to do voltage drop testing ? Leave the blubs in there sockets turn the low beams on , measure voltage on the power side , LH low beam yellow with black stripe an for the RH low beam dark blue wire . If you have battery voltage there, power side is good . Then check ground side both are yellow wires , test with lights on . if you see 6 volts , 12 volts .anything more then .03 millivolts you have a ground side problem . The lights ground through the light switch . Low Beam Voltage to the headlamp switch is available at all times from the HDLP SW fuse 7 through CKT 1940 (ORN). When the headlamp switch is turned to the HDLP position, the headlamp power relay coil is energized through CKT 352 (WHT). A signal is also sent to the body control module (BCM) that the headlamp switch is ON. When the headlamp switch is in the AUTO or PARK position, the ambient light sensor (located in the right speaker grill) senses either daylight or darkness and sends the signal to the BCM. When the Ambient Light Sensor detects a dark condition, the BCM produces a signal that will energize the headlamp power relay through CKT 352. The relay coil is grounded through terminal F7 connector 2 of the underhood fuse block to CKT 350 (BLK) to G102. When the headlamp power relay is energized the relay supplies power to the LT HDLP and RT HDLP fuses. The RH low beam headlamp receives current through CKT 198 (DK BLU) from the RT HDLP fuse. The LH low beam headlamp receives current through CKT 712 (YEL/BLK) from the LT HDLP fuse. Both headlamp low beam bulbs are grounded by CKT 524 (PPL) through the underhood fuse block to the multifunction switch (low position) contacts through CKT 10 (YEL) to the headlamp grounding relay in the body relay block through the normally closed contacts to CKT 1850 (BLK) to G200.

Sounds like a intake leak or vacuum off

Check to make sure that you reset the fuel pump cutoff switch. Without that switch in the proper position, the fuel pump will not operate.

4.3l v6 firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2 number 1 is on the drivers side front. They are numbered from front to back as follows..drivers side 1-3-5 passenger side 2-4-6. Older model engines with distributor caps have number 1 on the center front post and the rotation is clockwise.

Sorry Jason you need to clarifiy what part your talking about . Thermal /heat flasher /flash is the vehicle over heating ? Iknow of no part called a thermal flasher on a chevy or GM of this year and their all pretty much the same .

try motor honey,i had the same truck,your motor is dying

Things to check:

1. Condition of air filter;
2. Throttle Position Sensor;
3. Idle Bypass Valve;
4. MAF sensor (if so equipped)

In your case, im betting that the light comes on while driving and then turns off. This is the pre curser to your vehicle not starting at all. When this happens, you'll be looking for this info here.
This is my generic Vats security answer------


The problem is your Vats security system. This causes the car to either "not start" or "shut down" while running, or start for 5 seconds and then die. (depending on the system) If the security light flashes, i guarantee that this is what the problem is. 1st trick, (if not starting) turn the key forward 2 clicks till right before it would normally start, leave like that for 10 minutes. ( no less ) After 10 minutes, turn key back then forward and your car might start. I did this in my regal for more than a year. If its shuting down while running, im sorry i have no quick fix...

Cheap fix: Bypass the chip in your key. Temporary, but effective. Until the TDM (theft deterrent module) in the dash poops out, then you're kinda screwed. I was told that these types of key security systems have a 7-10 year life span. Sucks for us. This link explains the "Key Issue" pretty well.
----- http://vats.likeabigdog.com/


Never worry again fix: Bypass the whole VATS/Passlock/passkey I or passkey II system entirely. Literally take it out, and throw it away. I just did this in my Regal. Took about an hour. Took longer to find the thing than it did to fix the problem. For a list of cars effected by this problem. See the NEWROCKIES link on the right side of their page......... They sell a unit for 200 bucks to totally bypass this system FOREVER. life time-money back and all that. Finally did this in my car. Well worth the 200 if you've looked into getting this replaced... Anywhere from 600-1000 bucks.
----- http://newrockies.ca?ap_id=judd0081
----- With this fix, you can take that whole Vats, passlock, passkey **** system out of your car all together. Good info on both sites

Under dash on passager side

If you are reffering to what is in the picture below, the pipe between the Cat and the muffler is just simply exhaust pipe. BUT, the flanges on the ends of the pipe are called collectors. I hope this help and I will never visit London ;)

is your clutch reservoir low or lousing fluid or it may need replacement.are any arms bent or damaged,