Top 20
1999 GMC Sonoma Questions & Answers
1999 GMC Sonoma. How do I bypass my security system if the wires are red and white orange and white and yellow.
I thought I answered this?
Want to bypass your vehicle security system?
The short answer is you can't!
All modern cars have alarms and immobilizers. There is a transponder in the key and a receiver around the ignition lock. If both are present, the ECM (engine control module) or BCM (Body Control Module) releases power to the ignition circuit or the starter. When you turn the key, the starter spins the engine and you get a spark. If any one of those three items are not in the chain, you get the engine to turn, but no spark. There is no way to beat the system. You have to fix what is wrong, not find a way around it.
The immobilizer is in place to stop exactly what you are trying to do.
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Posted by ADMIN... on Mar 26, 2016
1999 GMC sonoma oil pan removel
I tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my ford explorer. it wont move forward or
reverse, engine is good both solenoids for forward and reverse work.
I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and works perfect! got it from
www.reliable-store.com
Not getting fire after changing the coil, rotor button and sensor in distributor but still 99 gmc sonoma won't start
My first concern is: how do you know there isn't fire? Did you
1- Check it with a screwdriver inside the spark plug wire at spark plug end to ground. This isn't the right way.
2- Have you check fire with HEI spark tester.
(The right way). To see a spark with the tester there will be 25k the spark to jump to ground and it test the coil working properly.
Now the fire system or ignition spark work this way.
When the engine is turning up to 400rpm the camshaft gear inside the engine makes distributor shaft turning. We often see the distributor gear at the end worn like an eaten apple.
Remove the Dist. Cap Somebody starts the engine look for the rotor if it turns. This will tell you the gear is OK.
P.S; What you call the SENSOR = Ignition Module just to let you know
Hope it helps
My truck won't crank
You will get your solution and all info on service info, repair info, parts info, wiring/electrical/fuse diagrams, error/fault codes, torque specs, PCV,
owner's/service/repair/parts/maintenance manuals etc everything
this website
www.reliable-store.com
it's a very good website for vehicle problems even as old as 1991 ford..
My 1999 Sonoma with the 4.3 is having
probably changed the wrong sensors
The units you should have replaced are the heated oxygen sensors in the exhaust manifold before the cat converters (HO2S)
oxygen sensors(O2S ) are after the cat converters codes p 0171,0174 are lean mixture codes and p 150,p0154 are HO2S sensor faults
as the Ho2s sensors read the composition of the exhaust gas and report to the ECM to adjust the fuel settings then t faulty HO2S sensors will result in a lean or rich reading resulting in the other codes
1999 GMC Sonoma 2.2L will not start.
What is wrong????????? That would be a guess on anyones part here ! Testing the electrical circuits involved would be the proper way to diagnose this no start problem ! Using a volt meter an wiring diagram to check voltage at different point's in the starter circuit . voltage drop testing ! Plus knowing how the starter system works !
Starter Circuit Operation
Voltage is applied at all times to the ignition switch from the IGN A fuse through CKT 42 (RED). When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, voltage is applied to the CRANK fuse through CKT 5 (YEL). From the CRANK fuse , voltage is either applied to the clutch pedal position switch (M/T) or the park/neutral position switch (A/T) through CKT 806 (PPL). When either the clutch is disengaged (M/T) or the transmission is in park or neutral (A/T), voltage is applied to the coil of the starter relay through CKT 1035 (PPL/WHT). Since the starter relay is permanently grounded at ground G102 through CKT 150 (BLK), the starter relay energizes.
Voltage is applied at all times to the starter relay contacts from IGN A fuse through CKT 42 (RED). When the starter relay energizes, the starter relay contacts close, and voltage is applied to the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor solenoid is permanently case grounded, the starter motor solenoid will energize two coils. The pull-in winding coil energizes in order to pull the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. When the contacts close, a plunger on the contacts causes the pull-in winding coil circuit to open. The hold-in winding coil then holds the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. Voltage is then applied to the starter motor from the battery through CKT 1 (RED) and the closed contacts of the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor is also permanently case grounded, the starter motor will run until the ignition switch is moved out of the START position. When this happens, a spring in the starter motor solenoid moves the starter motor solenoid contacts and the plunger back to the rest position.
Starter Voltage Drop
How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit
Won't start
Check the fuel injectors, with the key on one side of the two wire connector will have battery voltage, if none is present then check the ECM fuses in the underhood fuel box.
99' GMC Sonoma. The heater
Sounds like more than one issue, not getting as hot as before, and slow to change from vent to defrost, The first I suspect you have a thermostat failing, not a big job or expensive either, remove the thermostat putt it in an old pan full of water bring it up to a boil, with a thermometer (I use a meat thermometer from the dollar store as you won't want to use it for food again) watch at what temp the thermostat pops if it doesn't pop at around 180 then replace it.
second is the delay in switching from vent to defrost, again is not to expensive but is a bit troublesome as it sounds like you have a weak vacuum the louvers are moved by little dash pots the dash pot that moves the louver behind the dash could have a bad diaphragm or a crack vacuum line. not expensive just a pain to get at. a can of wd40 with the straw in place can help diagnose the problem if it changes properly when sprayed at time of activation (the line first then the dash pot) you will have found the bad boy Good luck
98 sonoma 2.2 electronic problem
was the new ecm flashed to this vehicle --also what saused ecm to burn up you may have other connections --fuses--relays burnt up also need to test the obdll connector possible damage or blown fuse if the sonoma's accessory /cig lighter is out usually shares same fuse as the obdll port
Low beams dont work and only one high beam works
Do you know how to do voltage drop testing ? Leave the blubs in there sockets turn the low beams on , measure voltage on the power side , LH low beam yellow with black stripe an for the RH low beam dark blue wire . If you have battery voltage there, power side is good . Then check ground side both are yellow wires , test with lights on . if you see 6 volts , 12 volts .anything more then .03 millivolts you have a ground side problem . The lights ground through the light switch .
Low Beam
Voltage to the headlamp switch is available at all times from the HDLP SW fuse 7 through CKT 1940 (ORN). When the headlamp switch is turned to the HDLP position, the headlamp power relay coil is energized through CKT 352 (WHT). A signal is also sent to the body control module (BCM) that the headlamp switch is ON. When the headlamp switch is in the AUTO or PARK position, the ambient light sensor (located in the right speaker grill) senses either daylight or darkness and sends the signal to the BCM. When the Ambient Light Sensor detects a dark condition, the BCM produces a signal that will energize the headlamp power relay through CKT 352. The relay coil is grounded through terminal F7 connector 2 of the underhood fuse block to CKT 350 (BLK) to G102. When the headlamp power relay is energized the relay supplies power to the LT HDLP and RT HDLP fuses. The RH low beam headlamp receives current through CKT 198 (DK BLU) from the RT HDLP fuse. The LH low beam headlamp receives current through CKT 712 (YEL/BLK) from the LT HDLP fuse. Both headlamp low beam bulbs are grounded by CKT 524 (PPL) through the underhood fuse block to the multifunction switch (low position) contacts through CKT 10 (YEL) to the headlamp grounding relay in the body relay block through the normally closed contacts to CKT 1850 (BLK) to G200.
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