20 Most Recent 2003 GMC Sonoma Extended Cab - Page 7 Questions & Answers

you can drive it to the garage, the abs doesn't work but the brakes are still fine,

There is nothing in the circuit after the relay, however, hearing the relay doesn't mean the power is available to run the pump, as the pump circuit is separate from the relay solenoid. The pump needs power from the 20 amp "ECM B" fuse. If you probe the relay socket with a test light, there should be 2 hot terminals--one from the PCM and one from the ECM B fuse. See diagram below.


If the power is there, are you sure it's the fuel pump relay that you hear clicking? If there are other relays in the box, it may be one of them that's coming on. Try swapping the pump relay with another one. Let me know if you get stuck or have more questions.

Bleeding brakes can be very frustrating.There are two ways you can do them 1 gravity feed;this means that you undo the bleeder screw on the caliper or the wheel cylinder and let the brake fluid flow until all air is removed from the system or 2 suction bleed; this involves going to your auto supply store and buying a small hand held pump that creates a suction which in turn,once connected over the bleeder screw,allows you to pull brake fluid and the air out of the system.If you have a friend to help you have them depress the brake pedal until it reaches the floor while you loosen the bleeder screw and discharge the air/fluid.Tighten the screw before the brake pedal is released,release the pedal and repeat.Keep checking the master cylinder and do not let the fluid run low.Don't pump the pedal repeatedly,brake fluid is hydroscopic,which means it can absorb air directly into itself.Slowly and firmly does it until you have purged all the air.You will know when it is all gone because hard pedal will come back.Good Luck

remove the diff cover.there are "c"clips holding in the axles that have to be removed with a magnet.

does it turn over? do you have spark? do you have fuel?

that's the same problem i have. i have no idea if there's a reset switch or a safety shutoff. help

it resets every time you use the remote or lock and unlock the drivers door with the key, if that doesn't reset the system try this, if the following reset doesn't unlock the system u still have a problem and the dealer needs to rescan the system.

PASSKEY LOCKOUT RESET ALL GM CARS 1999 AND UP

1) Put the key in the ignition and turn to the "ON" position. Leave it that way for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes turn the key and take it out. Repeat this process (2) more times (3 times, 30 minutes total) This should reset the PASSKEY system to recognize your key.

4L60Eif it is and automatic, yes there are rebuild kits but you will need special tools and knowledge. what is your trans not doing to suite you.

I have an 03 and mine says 50psi. Check your tire reading.

Check the fuse to the 4x4, if the fuse is good then check the 4x4 electric motor actuator on the transfer case. You should hear it work from 2wd, 4hi to 4low and back to 2wd with the push of the switch. if you don't hear it working then check the wire harness at the actuator motor, look for any damages like corrosion or cracked wire connector clips. If the 4x4 actuator is working on the transfer case, then the front hub 4x4 actuator may have gone bad and that's located on the front differential. It's common for the clip there to corrode and break and is an easy fix with a new collar pin, at worst it's the diaphragm on the vacuum actuator that is located under the battery tray. There is a vacuum switch on the top of the transfer case, driver side but when that fails, your front hub stay's locked in the on position. Good luck and keep me posted and hope it's a simple fuse that has gone bad. You can pick up all these parts at Auto Zone or Parts Source and they will have the step by step instructions for you to get the job done with common tools.

Compressors have a shut-off switch if the coolant is low. Check the pressure and go from there. Low coolant is the most common reason for the compressor not to come on.

OK, if the scanner can't read codes or communicate with the computer and the service engine soon light does not go on when ignition is turned on but it hasn't started, then the computer may be bad on it.

IF BATTERY CABLES CLEAN AND TIGHT.STARTER AND SOLENOID GOOD.SEE IF YOU SEE THEFT LIGHT ON WHILE KEY IN RUN POSITION.IF SECURITY LIGHT ON YOUR CAR IS IN THEFT SECURITY MODE.TRY ANOTHER KEY.PUT IN IGNITION FOR 10 MINUTES IN RUN POSITION WITH ENGINE OFF.WHEN SECURITY LIGHT TURN OFF. TURN OFF IGNITION SWITCH .WAIT 5 SECONDS TRY CRANKING TRUCK.IF STILL DONT CRANK.HAVE TRUCK HOOK UP TO A SCANNER TO CHECK FOR THEFT SECURITY MODE FAULT.

You'll need to move the brake caliper out of the way, and take off the rotor, seperate the ball joints from the steering knuckle, usually a pickle fork works well. If the ball joints have rivots holding them on, you'll need to grind them away, and knock them out, the new ball joints will have new bolts. Bolt in the new ones and reinstall everything. I would have the alignment checked afterwards.

on the top left side of engine near the distributor/high voltage switch sorry dont have picture

It could be that your heater control valve is not opening all the way or you may have a clogged heater core.

Ford 2003 GMC S15/T15 Sonoma P/U 2WD 4.3 liter V-6 VIN "W" check...



Hope this help. (remember rated and comment this).

drain the coolant down, remove upper radiator hose from motor,remove thermostat housing. remove thermostat.replace it.note the position of the thermostat,be sure to put it back in the correct position. replace housing, hose, coolant.

have you checked all the other components such as plugs, coils, wires? It may be the ignition control module. Check your local Auto Zone-they may be able to test it for you.

Can be an electric issue, checl coil, distributor and spark plug wires. Good luck