Top 20 2003 GMC Sonoma Extended Cab Questions & Answers

Here is a link to the wiring diagrams for the car. http://bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

check for cv joints if it 4x4 if not check your ball joints and struts

Thats a tough question without feeling it in person, however it sounds like the torque converter is not releasing from lockup. Could be solenoid or converter

Check for power to the front differential actuator. This actuator slides a gear in position to lock the differential to drive the front wheels. If you have power and ground to the actuator when in the 4HI position, the actuator has gone bad.The 4LO is only engaging at the transfer case, but the front wheels are still not engaged if it is not working in 4HI.

Most likely fuel pump problem have someone crank the engine while you bang on the bottom of the fuel tank if it starts you are in for a pump. If notyou will need to test ign system

Hi Jimi , There are very specific diagnostic procedures to follow for diagnosing this system. First a good visual inspection of the transfer case an fluid level an wiring connections. The transfer case shift control module is equipped with the ability to store diagnostic information, which is useful to a technician in the event of module, component or wiring failures. This information can be retrieved from the transfer case shift control module by way of flash codes, which are displayed on the three transfer case shift control switch buttons. These buttons are located on the instrument panel to the right of the steering wheel Before obtaining DTCs, perform the following transfer case control module (TCCM) Self-Test. TCCM Self-Test

1. Observe the transfer case shift control switch indicators while turning the ignition switch to RUN. A properly operating system will flash all indicators and then will return to the current gear. If the system is operating normally, then proceed to Displaying Codes.
2. If the TCCM failed the Self-Test, then test the following circuits.
?€¢ Battery Positive Voltage (40 and 1640), and Ignition 3 Voltage for battery voltage

?€¢ Ground Circuit for ground

?€¢ Diagnostic enable circuit for an open or high resistance

?€¢ Transfer case shift control switch connector

3. If the above circuits are normal but the TCCM still fails the Self-Test, replace the TCCM. Refer to Transfer Case Shift Control Module Replacement .

DTC Displaying

1. Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
2. Connect PIN 13 on the data link cable (DLC) to a ground. The DLC is located in the cab under the instrument panel on the driver's side.
3. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
4. Observe the transfer case shift control switch select buttons for flashing codes. Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List .

Important: If the transfer case shift control switch buttons all blink only once and then stop, no fault codes are stored in the transfer case shift control module. ?€¢ When one DTC is stored in memory, that code will blink that number of times followed by a 3 second pause and then repeat.

?€¢ If more than one code is stored, the first code will blink, followed by a 3 second pause and then the second code will blink.

?€¢ This sequence will continue until PIN 13 on the DLC is no longer grounded.

?€¢ If the TCCM will not communicate the presence or absence of DTCs, test the above circuits in Self-Test Step 2. If the circuits are complete, then replace the TCCM. Refer to Transfer Case Shift Control Module Replacement .

Let me know if you have any codes , I have code definitions an procedures.

Check the relays.

bad sensor, bad gas, plugged catalytic converter, plugged muffler, coil breaking down

TCC solenoid or valve. Bad valve body.

If it accelerates OK and nothing else seems wrong I wouldn't worry about it because it is probably just changes in the air flow volume through the air-intake system causing this whine!!

The bleed valve in on the back of the rear backing plate behind the wheel cylinder and the front one is on the brake caliper

adjustment is on the top of the light and the side.

That code is for your evap vent valve by your evap canister back by the tank I would check the connection on the vent valve and make sure its not corroded or unplugged there isn't a specific relay that controls it its part of a bigger circuit

Can really be only 1 of 2 things, your wiper blade itself it old and not resilient or the "hinge" where the wiper arm pivots is partially ceased and not keeping the blade against the window. To restore the wiper blade wipe Downy fabric softener on the rubber blade or lubricate the wiper arm pivot point.

It is located behind the panel in the back passenger side. Just inside the the back hatch. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/nathaniel_9ed79ef078a2f164

Cooling fan?.. but i think ur belt is belt driven so im not completely sure.

THERE IS NO FUSE FOR THAT WINDOW ONLY .IF YOU HEAR MOTOR RUNNING YOU ARE GETTING POWER. YOU HAVE A BAD GEAR SET OR REGULATER

Nothing wrong with fuel pressure should be fine. Pressure should not bleed off when vehicle not running that is probably why you have to crank for a while before it starts. I would check all fuel line connections from tank forward as you have a pressure "leak" somewhere along the line to loose fuel pressure.

possible loose heat shield cover on exhaust pipe and bad oxygen sensor

I had a similar problem and turned out to be the ignition switch. I bought a used one online and now it works no problem.