2004 GMC Envoy - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The first hing I would do is look at the coolant temp sensor data on a scan tool. This will tell me what the computer is seeing. If it is reading something way different than it should I would unplug it and see what the value changes to. It should read -40F. if it reads anything other than there is a problem with wiring or the computer. If it does read -40 than I would likely replace the coolant temp sensor. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

GM lemon,fix or you have to live with it !!! Fill up full and drive 250 to 300 miles and fill up ,reset odometer.

In the mean time you may want to adopt the system I have done with my MY98. I reset the trip odometer at each fill-up. I have always had plenty of reserve in the tank when I refill at 300 miles driven. It is annoying but after 7 years I have learned to live with it. My tank contains 23 gallons and I usually have 6 or more gallons remaining at fill-up. The expense of dropping the tank and having the repair vs the always check before travel the trip odometer has worked out for me. I have learned this process from boating where the fuel gauges can never be trusted.

Most likely the resistor has shorted to hot. It is close to the blower.

Do you have the 6-cyl or the 8-cylinder model? The P0135 code is for an upstream O2 sensor. The 6 cylinder has one up near the exhaust manifold and another (downstream) sensor just after the catalytic converter. The 8-cylinder has two upstream sensors, one on either side of the engine near the manifolds, and one by the catalyst. Be sure you located and replaced the correct upstream sensor. If that is not the problem, the issue could be the wiring harness going to the sensor. They run very close to the manifolds and often get damaged. Inspect the wiring leading back from the sensor to the PCM for melted and exposed wiring. IF you find some, you may be able to patch it, but often you must cut out the bad and replace the section with a new connector end. The sensor signal is relatively low voltage and doesn't handle damage wiring well.

is there another number in the code It would appear that the idle speed is not at the recommended idle rpms and the extra load from the ac is stalling the engine

Might not be the issue but can happen, check the wires from the door too the cab..after all the drivers door is the one most useds and the wires being bent back and forth over time can break in this area causeing Issues.

Is this oil in the plug wells or the cylinder?

One of your gauges is outside the spec setting, usually engine heat or fuel level

run the fault codes as there should be a fault recorded when the light came on

as the exhaust cams are fixed on the camshaft, unless there is a failure of the cam lobe for no 3 cylinder , there will be problems for all the cylinders on that cam have a compression test done to check for burnt /bent valve or a loose valve seat insert for that cylinder of the valves are operated by a rocker off the cam, it may be a rocker bush or worn rocker shaft that is the problem and not the cam shaft.

Could be bad electrical part that works for a bit while cold, but fails as it heats. Coil, ignition module, cam/crank sensor.

U need a shop manual or napa has details. Nevr put mor then two cans in system

switch or wiring problm. Cud b a module tu. Seek a electric specialist or privatemech

ASK THE PERSON YOU GOT IT FROM FOR THE CODE OR FOR A METHOD TO UNLOCK. If they cannot help get in contact with an ICE installer, they be able to give assistance

no resister on this car. the a/c comtrole is a module. comtrol the blower. frist check the connetor for the blower. if is ok replace the controler. price for $ 200.00 call the deler

Take tire off, loosen 0ne screw at bottom of caliper, which holds the brake pad, take other one out, swing caliper out, r and r brake pads, push the 2 round black pistons back down, (c-clamp does this good), then push caliper how you found it, tighten screws, put tire back on, bleed brakesto get air out, should be good to go.

Take out the cabin air filter that is in the plenum behind the glove box. This will lessen the noise but you should get the unit serviced soon.

back to the drawing board the light is still on because the abs system is not secure ---sensors ,wires not connecting to the abs or ECM

Please add rather more detail and resubmit the query, there really is insufficient information here to ADDRESS. When is there no power, after how long does this happen? Does the engine run at all in a normal manner. Why can you not engage the clutch? If it is an automatic does it not let you move the gear lever etc. Please add the details and repost