20 Most Recent 1996 Mazda 626 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Well you have good compression so your cylinders are OK.
I cannot help you with the vacuum hoses, but, try and plug them because if they are sucking air they will make the mixture weak and that will cause the engine to run badly.
To be honest if it is rocking about as much as you say then I would suggest it is only running on three cylinders. If you are happy with the sparkplugs and HT leads then it has to be a fuel problem, the injector with the broken plastic part? are you sure its operating correctly?

Your best bet would be on eBay - many sellers there have flat shipping rates. Buying directly from a dealer or store is definitely going to cost a fortune. If a seller on eBay doesn't have a flat rate option, you may be stuck buying one and paying a big shipping bill though - it's hard to say what will happen.

The lead to the speed sensor comes through a grommet in the wheel well from the engine compartment. Just follow it to the hub to find the sensor, there is a picture of one currently on ebay.

maybe the starter or wire connections are bad? see if theres a way to turn the engine manually so you know it's not locked up...make sure the spark plug wire is off!

It's part of the shifter assembly

Some fixya user told me a website reliable- store it is very good.. I used it to repair my shredder it had some spark issue which wasn't easily fixed. you can go there and try

I am not sure where the switch is located ... but I had generic trunk lid light issues on an older car. It turned out NOT to be a switch issue ... but a wiring issue. The trunk had been opened enough times over the years that the covered/taped wire bundle that goes from the body to the trunk had flexed too many times and right around the hinge area several wires had broken. The problem was found by doing a number of continuity checks on the wiring after I had frustratingly looked at all switches and light bulbs!!

Diagnostic Trouble Codes OBD1
Mazda 02 Crank Position Sensor (NE Signal). 03 Cam Position Sensor (SGC Signal). 05 Knock Sensor. 08 Air Flow Sensor. 09 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. 10 Intake Air Temp. Sensor (Air Flow Sensor). 12 Throttle Position Sensor. 14 Barometric Absolute Press. Sensor. 15
and/or
23 Heated Oxygen Sensor (Inactivation). 16 EGR Function Sensor. 25 Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Valve. 26 Purge Control Solenoid Valve. 28 EGR Vacuum Solenoid Valve. 29 EGR Vent Solenoid Valve. 34 Idle Air Control Valve. 41 VRIS 1 Solenoid Valve. 46 VRIS 2 Solenoid Valve.

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what's the rpm for that car maybe 1000 rpm. you are going to need another person to help you. when normal temperature adjust your tps your computer is not reading the factory rpm and make sure you don't an air leak.

The Autodata fuel injection manual provides those figures for the engine management temp. sensor and I think I have seen them in the Haynes repair manual. The temp. gauge sensor values I have never seen because it is generally accepted the electrical temp. gauge isn't a gauge but an indicator and therefore doesn't need to be accurate. If you had the correct figures it is a bit of a faff suspending the sensor and an accurate thermometer in cold water and heating it slowly and monitoring the temperature and resistance. Mostly a replacement sensor is so inexpensive it isn't worth the effort. Ford used to supply different sensors so the gauge (indicator) could be calibrated more closely - so it was around halfway at normal working temperature, but Ford seemed to be the only one that needed calibrating... In the case of incorrect reading that isn't corrected by a replacement sensor, the supply voltage to the gauge should be checked to ensure it is being regulated accurately to the correct voltage - I know of only two standard voltages (10 volts and 5 volts) but there might be others.

do an online search for common problems and read reviews

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