20 Most Recent 2001 Dodge Dakota - Page 6 Questions & Answers


I believe the problem is in turn signal/flasher control near the top of steering column. follow the link for a video that close to the exact procedure you will need to follow.

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Jan 29, 2015


probably means that the thermostat is stuck open or missing, the temperature sensor unit (not temperature sender unit) is faulty and needs replacing

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Jan 27, 2015


There are 4 wheel sensors for the ABS not 3 and the brake light may be the sensor telling you that the brake fluid in the reservoir is low and needs topping up

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Jan 27, 2015


Just follow the instructions. The colors of the wires should be easy to follow and the new wires should match.

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Jan 24, 2015


Your problem is twofold:

  1. The person who likely replaced the starter in the past either had "ham fists" and muscles enough to run them badly (and/or a bottle or Loctite), or;
  2. The toolkit you received as a Christmas gift is made out of the cheapest steel in the world (as are most ALL "consumer-quality" tools these days)
There is about a zero percent chance that the bolt was replaced with a left-handed thread one, but there IS a chance you forgot one of the basic tenets of mechanix - mainly, "Righty-TIGHTY, Lefty-LOOSEY".

I think it is more likely you simply need the proper tools for the job, mainly a HIGH QUALITY (read "Profession Grade Lifetime Guarantee") 3/4" drive, the right-sized 6-POINT SOCKET, matched to a properly sized 3/4" extension bar (long enough to give you the whatever clearances you need to really lay the meat to twisting the bolt), and either a HIGH QUALITY solid 3/4" "Breaker Bar" or HIGH QUALITY 3/4" ratchet handle, either with at least a 16 inches or so of length, so you can truly "reef" on that puppy.

I do NOT mean any of the "Lifetime Guarantee" tools you can get at a big box store, I mean a true "Professional Quality" tools like Proto or Snap-On. Other makes like Craftsman and that ilk used to be good, but many years ago the manufacturers figured out they could make a LOT more money with really cheap tool steel and casting the words "Lifetime Guarantee" into the tools. I am sure you probably will not go too far out of your way to replace those tools that have already "melted" in your hands trying to do this "simple" job - and they count on that.

The proper 3/4 inch drive tools for that job - the socket, the extension and the long-handled ratchet or breaker-bar will likely cost more (x2) of what the new starter will cost. You will need to beg, borrow or steal them. I would not recommend attempting to steal them, as most mechanics who possess tools of that quality depend on them for their livelihood and safety, which is to say they love and trust them even more than their own spouse.

After you garner the right tools, you must figure out how to use them PROPERLY! Used improperly, you can turn trying to twist that one, single bolt off into an $800-plus major repair job in about 2 1/2 seconds, or even worse, you can easily EASILY knock every tooth out of the front of your face INSTANTLY, before you understand what hit you.

(Never EVER pull tools of that size and mass towards you, you always push them away from you while using!!!)

Pushing the handle away from you, you will also need to apply exactly the same amount of pressure in the opposite direction to the top of the handle or ratchet, all while pushing the whole assemble in towards the bolt, it at an additional equal or greater force.

In other words, you need to not simply turn the bolt off, you must work the forces in three separate directions, and all of them AWAY from you. That usually means you will be handling big, heavy tools in exactly the OPPOSITE direction as you did last time, using both hands to apply forces in x3 directions - and it will still be a "bear" to remove.

If you really choose to get the right tools and do this yourself, don't forget the additional items you will need:

1) Beer, all "Shade Tree Mechanics" work better with a few beers in them (it numbs the pain when the wrench slips),
2) BANDAGES and a Cell Phone; those little wrenches you initially used might cause a skinned knuckle or two, but the "Big Boys" will cause broken bones and major lacerations - the bandages help while waiting for the ambulance you might need the cell phone to call,
3) A helper - someone to hold your beer after you utter those famous last lines "Hold my beer, and watch this!", and who will call your mom later to tell you what hospital they took you to.
4) and last but not least, a brand-new, properly sized and length replacement bolt for the over-torqued one you are removing, and a properly pitched tap to chase the bunged up threads with.

There is a reason a good mechanic costs a few bucks: outside of the training, experience and $50,000.00 - plus worth the tools in that tool-box of his, he usually works in a pretty nice shop, not on his back under a truck in the Target parking lot, where some little old man in a three ton Cadillac, wearing a silly plaid hat and those goofy big "I've just been to the Optometrist and had my eyes dilated" sunglasses can run over his legs.

Good luck, Chad!

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Jan 23, 2015


The running boards for my Liberty did not come with brackets that fit directly into holes in the frame. I had to do some drilling. It's been so long ago I don't remember if I had a template or if it just had a diagram. But mine were from Chrysler so that probably helped since they were made FOR that vehicle. If yours are aftermarket you will probably have to prop them up in place and make some marks where to drill. I suggest you treat any areas you drill with rust proofing spray, the black sticky kind. Once you have it propped up you might find there are holes or detents that line up with the brackets on your rails.
Watch out for fuel lines and wires when drilling.

If you are not comfortable doing that, visit a few independent shops and get estimates for installation.

Wishing you good luck with this ......................

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Jan 23, 2015


i think you have to chipset your new ECM and adapt it to your car

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Jan 09, 2015


Your handy dandy shop manual will explain this, but many vehicles require that you remove the passenger inner fender panel to gain access.

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Dec 15, 2014


You seem to have a short circuit, or bad circuit breaker. Most newer trucks use breakers instead of fuses for high amp circuits. Could you have run over something which tore a wire under in part of the 4 WD circuit? Pull fuses/breakers one at a time and try again until you find the one which kills the noise, then repair that circuit.

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Dec 15, 2014


Hi,

Read the complete procedure :-

Keyless Entry - Programming Procedure
Notes

NUMBER: 08-007-02

GROUP: Electrical

DATE: Mar. 25, 2002

SUBJECT:
Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) Programming Procedures

MODELS:

1999 - 2002 (AB) Ram Van/Wagon

1999 - 2002 (AN) Dakota

1999 - 2002 (BR/BE) Ram Pickup

1999 - 2002 (DN) Durango

2002 (DR) Ram Pickup

2001 - 2002 (JR) Sebring Sedan/Stratus Sedan/Sebring Convertible

2002 (KJ) Liberty

1999 - 2002 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/300M

1999 - 2000 (NS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager

1999 - 2002 (PL) Neon

1999 - 2002 (PR) Prowler

2001 - 2002 (PT) PT Cruiser

2001 - 2002 (RS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager

1999 - 2002 (WJ) Grand Cherokee

1999 - 2001 (XJ) Cherokee

DISCUSSION:







A Remote keyless Entry (RKE) Programming Procedures Card (Publication No. 81-170-00011) is being provided with this Technical Service Bulletin to simplify RKE transmitter programming on 1999 - 2002 North American vehicles. Additional copies of the RKE publication, 81-170-00011 (Fig. 1), can be ordered from DDS Distribution Services, LTD. Their number is 1-800-890-4038.

NOTE :THE RECENTLY RELEASED MILLER SPECIAL TOOL, "RF DETECTOR NO. 9001", SHOULD BE USED TO DETERMINE IF THE TRANSMITTER IS WORKING BEFORE BEGINNING PROGRAMMING PROCEDURES. THE RF DETECTOR INDICATES IF THE TRANSMITTER IS WORKING, NOT IF IT IS PROGRAMMED TO A VEHICLE.

DaimlerChrysler North American Remote Keyless Entry Programming Procedures

NOTE :PLEASE READ INSTRUCTIONS FULLY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO PROGRAM TRANSMITTERS.

Program Method A (Customer Program Method)

1. Press (LOCK) button 5 times at 2 second intervals to resynchronize transmitter. Attempt to function transmitter, if working as designed discontinue programming.

2. Turn ignition to run position. (Allow ignition chimes to stop).

3. Using any original (working) transmitter, press the [UNLOCK] button for 4 to 10 seconds.

4. Within the specified 4 to 10 seconds, continue pressing the [UNLOCK] button and press the [PANIC] button for 1 second and release both buttons (AN/DN release either button first). A chime will sound to indicate that the transmitter programming mode has been entered (allow 3 seconds for chime to sound).

5. Press [LOCK] and [UNLOCK] buttons simultaneously for 1 second and release (a short chime will sound for AN/DN).

6. Press and release any button on the same transmitter and a chime will sound after successfully programming the transmitter (locks will cycle for AN/DN).

NOTE :(FOR DR ONLY) A CHIME WILL NOT SOUND ON STEP # 6 FOR THE FIRST TRANSMITTER PROGRAMMED, BUT WILL SOUND UPON PROGRAMMING THE SECOND TRANSMITTER.

7. Repeat steps 5 through 6 to program additional transmitters.

8. Turn ignition to OFF position. Transmitter programming mode v/ill discontinue after 60 seconds (30 seconds for AN/DN and RS). (All transmitter programming must be completed within time specified).


Program Method B (Customer Program Method)

1. Press [LOCK] button 5 times at 2 second intervals to resynchronize transmitter. Attempt to function transmitter, if working as designed discontinue programming.

2. Turn ignition to the run position (Allow ignition chimes to stop).

3. Using original transmitter, press and hold the [UNLOCK] button on the transmitter for between 4 and 10 seconds.

4. Continue to hold the [UNLOCK] button and press the [PANIC] button. A chime will sound to indicate that the transmitter programming mode has been entered (Allow 3 seconds for chime to sound).

5. Press a button on all transmitters to be programmed into the system including any previously programmed transmitters; a chime will sound when each transmitter has been programmed.

6. Turn the ignition to OFF position to exit the transmitter programming mode.


Program Method C (Dealer Program Method) *Can be used for any type transmitter.

1. Press [LOCK] button 5 times at 2 second intervals to resynchronize transmitter. Attempt to function transmitter, if working as designed discontinue programming.

2. Turn ignition to the run position (Allow ignition chimes to stop).

3. Plug DRBIII to vehicle's 1-way data link connector.

4. Follow Service Manual and DRBIII instructions to program transmitters.


Program Method D (For use with AB vehicles not equipped with VTSS only)

1. Locate the dark green program enable wire connected to pin # 1 of the 16-way data link connector under the left side of the instrument panel.

2. Connect the program enable wire terminal to a good ground.

3. Insert the key into the ignition and turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The power locks will cycle (Lock and Unlock) indicating that program mode has been entered.

4. Using the transmitter to be programmed, press either [LOCK] or [UNLOCK]. The power locks will cycle indicating the transmitter has been programmed successfully.

5. Repeat step 4 to program additional transmitter.

6. Disconnect the program enable wire from ground to exit program mode.

7. Turn the ignition to the OFF position and remove the key.

NOTE :REFER TO DAIMLERCHRYSLER MDS2 SYSTEM OR PARTS DEPARTMENT TO OBTAIN THE CORRECT PART NUMBER AND REVISION FOR SPECIFIED VEHICLE.

POLICY:
Information Only

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Nov 07, 2014


You first have to find out why it is on. The light can not just be turned off without correcting the malfunction.

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Nov 04, 2014


Fix the problem or pull the dash/cluster and remove the light. Have the codes read for the problem.

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Oct 21, 2014


If your airbag light is on, that means the airbag doesn't work in case of a crash. So it's important you get it checked, most likely there is a bad contact between the airbag ecu and the airbag, a common bad contact is in the wiring in the steering collum.

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Oct 20, 2014


Could possibly be a short or open wire. As a rebuilder, I see these computers a lot. The engine computer (ECU) should be mounted under the hood, passenger side near the air filter. You can also identify issues by scanning the fault codes. I would be more then happy to help you define the codes if you can get them

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Oct 20, 2014


I have a 2001 Dakota that has an intermittent issue whereby the tail lights and the radio go out. All I do is stop the truck, shut it off and then restart it. Seems to reset them both...!

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Oct 10, 2014


could need a NEW MFS "multi Function Switch" Or Ignition switch sounds like a wire came loose some where and its having a ground issue.

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Oct 10, 2014


check for battery short inside battery have some one check for ac voltage in battery and alternator out put,,,headlight switch would be next to check or replace

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Oct 10, 2014


it could be a bad tire belt or the tire is worn enough to cause a noise, it could also be a bearing on that side of the truck.

2001 Dodge... | Answered on Sep 29, 2014

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