20 Most Recent 1997 GMC Sonoma - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Hello Mr. Graham.

The first thing to do is check that the belt that drives the alternator is in good condition and is properly tensioned.
Check the connections at the alternator for corrosion or looseness.
If all is in order the alternator will be the most likely problem.
Very common issue on these vehicles.
Thank you for using FixYa.

KL

It sounds like the anti theft security feature has been triggered or faulted and locked the vehicle down so it won't start. If that is what has happened, the dealer can fix it for a substantial fee. You can tell if your truck has the antitheft system by looking at your ignition key. If there is a computer chip or resistor in the key, then you have the system. If not, then the problem is somewhere else. Check the battery cables to make sure they are tight and in good condition. Make sure the wires and cable are attached to the starter and tight. You can check for voltage at the starter by taking a long screwdriver and shoring across the battery cable where it bolts to the starter and the engine block. If the starter is getting voltage, it should engage. Do this with the transmission in neutral, parking brake set and ignition key on. If the starter engages and starts the engine, then the problem could be the starter relay. If the starter does not engage, but you do get substantial sparks when you short across the starter then,the starter is bad. No Sparks at all means the battery is not supllying voltage to the starter.

tray to take out the cable and tray after hour
if it gone so fine
but might u have some oil leakg somwhere in engine..

I am suspecting that the problem lies not with your transfer case but one of your out board universal joints on your steering axles (under the rubber boot(s)). A full turn in either direction puts great strain on these components (especily at speed) and can cause failure. I would check these immediately since if they fail to a point of actually coming apart - further collateral damage could (will) occur and you will incur added costs or worse - an accident if one fails while driving.

you probably have a bad o-ring on the fuel hookup to the intake/injection system. Does your engine look like the picture below? If yes, please follow instructions below the picture, and let me know if you have questions.

Remove the plastic cover (#19), hold a rag over the valve, and push in the stem to relieve the fuel system pressure. Since you are leaking, there may not be any pressure.

Remove and discard the fuel fitting clip.

Disconnect the fuel inlet and return tube and fitting assembly. Discard the old O-rings.

To install:

Position new O-ring seals (lightly coated with clean engine oil), then connect the fuel inlet and return tube and fitting assembly.

Install a new fuel fitting clip.

Pressurize the fuel system by cycling the ignition switch ON for 2 seconds, then OFF for 10 seconds and repeating, as necessary. Once the fuel system is pressurized, check for leaks.

The computer runs the fuel mixture rich when cold and then leans out as it warms up into closed loop, a common problem is the regulator leaking, if you remove the upper part of the intake and then turn key on and watch for fuel leaks, another trick is to remove the throtlebody and use a light to see if fuel is puddling up on the top of the intake, make sure to dissconnect module connectors to avoid a false start or spark that will cause a fire, i would almost bet its the regulator, hope this helps,

sounds like you have a lose battery cable, if everything just goes dead at once..

Sure sounds like the vacuum switch is not working properly. You have done exactly what I would have done, start with the actuator(most common problem) and go from there. If your not getting the vacuum , then most likely the vacuum switch is your problem.

Please take a moment to rate my answer......... thanks

There is a bleeder on the slave cylinder and on the cylinder on the l/s of the transmission...

Check for the cable that leads to the transfer box, It's probaly sticking or has detached somewhat.

Check where the heater hoses connect to the engine.

try replacing you turn signal flasher.

Shakes or makes a sound?If it shakes you have a missfire.

Yes, well, that is if the trailer plug is the right design for the trailer. They have to match up, but you're in luck. They make adapters for them.

1997 GM product may be different than a 1997 Ford Expedition, for example.

And depending on your trailer, where you get it, and how it is set up for lights and brakes, that will vary.

i hd the same problem before and just swapped out the relays with no luck. i then reached under the bed and on top of the fuel tank and wiggled the wires and found out they were just loose. hope this helps

passenger side underneath where engine bolts to transmission

Can you please specify your problem in detail so that we can say whether it is an fuel gauge problem or not.

engine compartment

For 1997 GMC Truck Sonoma 4WD 4.3L SFI OHV 6cyl the Flasher is located:
* Front seating area, driver side, passenger side ofsteering column, under dash, mounted near cigarettelighter. Optional mounting location is under dash,on driver side of steering column
Application: Hazard flasher

* Front seating area, driver side, passenger side ofsteering column, under dash, mounted near cigarettelighter. Optional mounting location is under dash,on driver side of steering column
Application: Turn signal

Hope helps (remember to rate and comment this).