20 Most Recent 2004 GMC Savana Questions & Answers

Hi, there are separate fuses for the left and right side, so the likely problem is the headlight switch itself. The switch is held in by 4 tabs as you can see in the pic below. See if you can depress the tabs from the back. If not, you may be able to slip a really small screwdriver or knife in thru the front to depress the tabs one at a time while pulling the switch assembly out. With the switch pulled out, check to see if the tail lights will come on with the switch on and while you giggle the connectors on the back. If you can get them to come on, you may just need to bend the pins slightly to help them make better contact. Otherwise, replace the switch.

Dirty battery terminals.
Or
Put it in neutral and then try it.

sounds like the contacts in the steering wheel are jammed on,need to strip it apart and check that the spring is pushing the contacts away

This sounds like a block in the fuel system, possibly a fuel filter.

their are a multitude of reasons the majority or the usual suspects are - if any codes have read and most auto stores offer this service for free --needs tune up ---egr valve carboned or failing --fuel pump /filter failing or partial clogging --catylic converter failing or clogging --injectors- tbi needs replacement or rebuild-- bad fuel any of these can cause such problems and not set off the check engine light

Who installed the fuel pump & why? What was the problem with the old pump & what testing was done to warrant a new pump? What has been tested now & how?

just check behind thos acesseries disconnect the power wire and reconnect from 2nd battery donot forget to use fues box.

On most vehicles with front and rear A/C, the two systems are basically independant of each other just sharing the compressor and condensor. It is possible that the Mode Door (controls where the air flow is sent; ie: windshield, vents, floor) is out of adjustment or sticking.

Sounds like your brake rotors.You dont have to feel it in the pedal to get a shake in the wheel.

Check your ignition key, if its excessively worn , have a new one cut and see if the problem persists. If ignition tumblers are not set correctly it wont start, even if it does turn the lock cylinder.

There are at least 2 items that will cause your problem. The first is when you changed the pads you place the caliper in a different place on the support pins that the caliper slides on to centralise the brakes on the rotor. These mounting pins are prone to rusting up and actually keeps one pad on the rotor as the caliper cannot centralise during brake application. The second is a problem that occurs when the brake fluid is pushed back into the master cylinder reservoir from pushing the piston back into the caliper. Muck in the lines is pushed back into the compensating ports in the Master cylinder causing the brakes to drag and build up pressure from the heat generated by having the brakes on. Try flushing out the brake system using metholated spirits or replace the master cylinder

Two people will be needed: Open the hood, get out your garden hose and spray the area while person #2 sits in the car looking for where the water is coming from. Probably missing s rubber bushing on something through the firewall or maybe the door seal is bad.

at the back caliper,you have to pump the brake and hold then open bleed screw[two persons].

There is a good chance that there may be some debris lodged in the fan itself. Or... the wiring is loose.