20 Most Recent 1995 Dodge Dakota - Page 5 Questions & Answers

There isn't one on this truck! Fuel system is PCM controlled!

These SWITCHES WORK SEPERATLY. REPLACE THE headlight switch.

I am not an expert,however a backfire is normally caused by a lean fuel mixture.Check fuel pressure.

Hi Maddie, I'm glad to help! Below, I have posted a diagnostic procedure to see why the wipers are not working on your Dakota. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Maddie! DIAGNOSIS WIPER MOTOR The following are wiper motor system problems, tests to be performed to locate the faulty part, and the proper action to be taken. If the malfunction involves only the delay mode, switch, or wiring, see the diagnosis for Intermittent Wipe Module and Wiper/ Washer Switch. CONDITION Motor will not run in any wiper/washer switch position. PROCEDURE (1) Check fuse 10 in the fuseblock module. If OK, go to step 3. If not OK, replace fuse and go to next step. (2) Check motor operation in all wiper/washer switch positions. If not OK and fuse blows, go to step 5. If not OK and fuse is OK, go to next step. (3) Place wiper/washer switch in LOW position and listen to motor. If you cannot hear it running, go to next step. If motor is running, check motor output shaft. If output shaft is not turning, replace motor assembly. If it is turning, drive link to output shaft or linkage is not properly connected. Replace worn parts and/or properly connect drive link to the motor output shaft. (4) Connect a voltmeter between motor terminal L and ground strap (Fig. 1). If there is little or no voltage (less than 1 volt), move negative test lead from the ground strap to battery negative terminal. If an increase in voltage is noticed, the problem is a bad ground circuit. Make sure the motor mounting is free of paint and that mounting fasteners are tight. If there is still no indication of voltage, the problem is an open in wiring or faulty wiper/washer switch. If a small increase (greater than 3 volts) in voltage is observed, the problem is a faulty motor assembly. (5) Disconnect motor wiring connector and replace fuse. If fuse does not blow, motor is defective. If fuse blows, wiper/washer switch or wiring is at fault. CONDITION Motor runs slowly at all speeds. PROCEDURE (1) Disconnect wiring harness connector at motor. Remove wiper arms and blades. Connect an ammeter between battery and terminal L on motor (Fig. 2). If motor runs and average ammeter reading is more than 6 amps, continue to next step. If motor runs and average ammeter reading is less than 6 amps, go to step 3. (2) Check wiper linkage or pivots for binding or obstruction. Disconnect drive link from motor. If motor now runs and draws less than 3 amps, repair linkage system. If motor continues to draw more than 3 amps, replace motor assembly. (3) Check motor wiring harness for short between high and low speed circuits. Connect a voltmeter or test lamp to motor ground strap. Set wiper/washer switch to LOW position. Connect other lead of voltmeter (test lamp) to terminal H of the wiring harness. If voltage is present, there is a short in the wiring or wiper/washer switch. If no voltage is present, go to next step. (4) Set wiper/washer switch to HIGH position. Move voltmeter (test lamp) lead from terminal H to terminal L of the wiring harness. If voltage is present, there is a short in the wiring or wiper/ washer switch. CONDITION Motor will run at high speed, but not at low speed. Fig. 1 Voltmeter Between Terminal L and Ground Motor will run at low speed, but not at high speed. Fig. 2 Ammeter Between Terminal L and Battery WIPER AND WASHER SYSTEMS 8K - 3

The gas filter is clogged up. It's in the gas tank. You should buy a new gas pump and it comes with a new filter. This will kill two birds with one stone.

whirring noises are usually bearings here is a good test drive down the road and act like a down hill skier criss cross back and forth does noise change then it is front wheel bearings does not then it is rear differential bearings.

You can look in your manual, it should tell you what amp rating you need. Your manual will have the location of said fuse as well. The fuse will also be color coded according to it's amp rating. Remove fuse, replace, and you should be good to go.

Maybe the fan clutch hub is bad

Run a Tube on both ends pump. you can use gas as the fluid since you'll have to prime it any ways. You put one end in the gas tank the other hold to opening to flow back into tank. Big thing to remember is that the pump has a arrow that shows which way the flow goes. Two way to set up leads on pump is straight jumpers off the battery. This is the safe way to do this. Gator clips to battery so you can disconnect there and not at pump.""""No sparks by gas!!!!!"""" If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/scott_541ceb86d69e7743

The holes only line up one way, you will just need to find that correct position.

Near the emergency brake pedal arm.

Sounds like you have a parasitic draw. Have a friend measure voltage at your battery and pull your fuses one at a time. When the voltage spikes you found the circuit that is shorted. If you still dont find it connect an amp clamp to your alternator output wire with the vehicle off, if current is flowing you have a faulty rectifier bridge in your alternator and you need a new 1.

This carburetor is a Throttle body injection system the injectors requires pulses to control fuel spray. With starting fluid spray some down each side crank engine if it starts runs then dies then check the following #1 fuel pressure #2 check for engine codes cycle ignition key on & off three time (off,on,off,on,off,on) watch the crank engine light flash first set is ten code pause second set single code so a flash flash pause flash flash flash pause repeat would be code 23 repeat 23 then the next one with a end of message code of 55 with the code you can find the computer part that is failing.

NOX is high coolant or engine temps & egr issues Lots on the internet to study on exhaust gases & the reason they fail inspection or are too hi