1995 Dodge Dakota - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Very good diagrams and description for Dak https://auto-fuses.com/dodge-dakota-diagrams-of-fuse-boxes-and-relays-1997-2000/

Question moved to model category. So the code is '32 5 5', or is it 32 AND 55, or 5.5 or 5 came up twice? These are early OBD codes https://www.google.com/search?q=95+Dodge+Dakota+sport+code+32+5+5 ..

the alt big stud huge goes (wire) straight to it. on all cars, be it a fuse classical or a fueable link all cars have it and is covered here https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

It's located in between the engine and transmission on the driver side

It is in the link, but also click on the images tab for more. https://www.google.com/search?q=1995+Dodge+Dakota+5.2L+V8+magnum+vacuum+lines+diagram ..

start with your fuses then get back to us

I can't provide the answer you need - vehicle manufacturers often buy in door latch and lock parts rather than manufacturing their own and in that case the same door catch can be used at different times by several different marques, unfortunately there probably isn't a list in the public domain though if you can find it the source manufacturer will probably be pleased to help - sometimes there are identification marks on the catch. It is rare for a door catch to need replacing and the only thing that causes excess wear is long term use with maladjusted hinges/striker and a lack of lubrication. Sometimes a spring will break but excluding breakage and wear, operating in a damp and/or dusty environment soon causes worn operating linkages and a sticking catch but removing it and washing thoroughly in a solvent before reapplying lubricant usually restores a catch to good working order.

An OBD2 scanner can sometimes read an odd OBD1 code but there is no consistency. The OBD2 system is designed to be universal but only as far as faults that can affect exhaust emissions - other faults on the OBD2 system and the OBD1 system are manufacturer/model specific and require either dedicated diagnostic equipment or some very comprehensive software.

there

check the fuse with a test light on both sides of the fuse,
next would be the headlight switch.

I take help from online websites that have this service like helping in repair some like reliable-store have instant help.. others are a bit slow which I don't prefer... rest is up to u.. U can also get free manuals

Bleed ur slate cylinder like u bleed ur brakes

Replace the /the ignitor switch in the distributor electronic control switch its the ignitor in your distributor its the unit the wires going into ur distributor makes them complete ur spark

the solenoid will cause these problems

For my dodge daytona it was the ecm.( brain)

Clean injectors.

It just may be your Float assembly or there is short in the ground

My info says to disconnect and reconnect abs control module. Passenger compartment, access after removing right hand cowl cover. Or disconnect battery ground cable. I have to tell you I don't like disconnecting battery cables, sometimes that causes more problems than you already had. Sometimes it doesn't cause any problems??

get the service and repair manual from the given link and fix the problem yourself and save your time and money http://toolsnyou.com/

Take the trans dipstick out and rub some of the fluid between your thumb and index finger. If it feels gritty it means one or more of your clutch linings has gone to mush and the stuff has clogged the metering block passages. Or the servo/shift seals have become worn. Most auto transmissions work better warm and is why 98% of the manufacturers locate the trans cooler right in the radiator. You can try and disassemble your trans and clean it all out and replace everything because it's almost impossible to locate what part is causing this, but with my experience unless you want to build muscle mass installing and yanking the trans, I would replace it. Loose linkages could cause this too but the mileage is a clue. If possible park it in a heated garage until your funds are better.