1999 Dodge Neon - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It pays to have it done by a reputable repair shop. They have the better tools and supplies to do the job. You can get flush kits at auto stores and they contain instructions on how to do so.

i would start by checking the fuses.

Standard Head Gasket

Step 1: Tighten bolts 1-6 to 25 Ft. Lbs. (34 N.m) and bolts 7-10 to 20 ft. lbs. (28 N.m).
Step 2: Tighten bolts 1-6 to 50 Ft. Lbs. (68 N.m) and bolts 7-10 to 20 ft. lbs. (28 N.m).
Step 3: (Repeat Step 2) Tighten bolts 1-6 to 50 Ft. Lbs. (68 N.m) and bolts 7-10 to 20 ft. lbs.
(28 N.m).
Step 4: Tighten all bolts an additional 1/4 turn (DO NOT use a torque wrench for this step).

Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) Head Gasket

Step 1: Tighten bolts 1-6 to 25 Ft. Lbs. (34 N.m) and bolts 7-10 to 20 ft. lbs. (28 N.m).
Step 2: Tighten bolts 1-6 to 50 Ft. Lbs. (68 N.m) and bolts 7-10 to 35 ft. lbs. (47 N.m).
Step 3: (Repeat Step 2) Tighten bolts 1-6 to 50 Ft. Lbs. (68 N.m) and bolts 7-10 to 35 ft. lbs.
(47 N.m).
Step 4: Tighten all bolts an additional 1/4 turn (DO NOT use a torque wrench for this step).

Tightening sequence

* Clean and oil threads before installation.

you got either water in the fuel tank! or the air temp sensors in the breather is bad

single or dohc?

Change it with water pump end thermostat,take to service station...make sure is belt or chain!?...

It should be on the end of the motor. Usually the same side of the motor that has the alternator and drive pulleys.

The water pump on the Neon 2.0L engine is located under the timing cover behind the timing belt.

it is driven by the timing belt and is under the timing belt cover on the front of the engine

Go to www.autorepair.about.com you may find one there.

Here you go.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Unfasten the retainer(s), then remove the hydraulic flex hose bracket from the strut bracket. If equipped with ABS, the wheel speed sensor cable routing clip is also attached to the strut assembly bracket.

1. Support the rear knuckle, suspension and brake components before removing the clevis bracket-to-knuckle attaching bolts. Do NOT allow the weight of the knuckle and related components hang without support when the strut is removed.


WARNING The knuckle-to-strut attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Remove the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the knuckle.

1. Hold the bolt with a wrench, then unfasten the 2 clevis bracket nuts attaching the strut to the knuckle.

Fig. Fig. 2: Location of the knuckle-to-clevis bracket bolts

1. Carefully lower the vehicle, then open the trunk. Access to the rear upper strut mount-to-strut tower attaching bolts is through the trunk of the car.
2. If necessary, remove the carpet from the top of the strut tower. Then, remove the rubber dust shield from the top of the strut tower for easier access to the upper strut nuts.

1. Loosen, but do not remove the 4 upper strut mounting nuts. Then, while supporting the strut assembly, fully remove the 4 strut mount attaching nuts.

1. Remove the strut assembly from the knuckle by sliding the knuckle out of the clevis bracket on the strut, then remove it from the vehicle.

Carefully pull the strut assembly out of the vehicle
To install:

1. Position the strut back into the vehicle with the 4 studs on the strut mount assembly through holes in the strut tower of the vehicle. Install the 4 strut mount-to-body attaching nuts onto the mount studs. Tighten the nuts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
2. Install the dust shield into the opening on top of the strut tower. Install the carpeting back on top of the rear strut tower.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
4. Install the knuckle into the clevis bracket on the strut assembly. Install the 2 clevis bracket-to-knuckle attaching bolts and nuts. Hold the bolts with a wrench while tightening the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
5. Install the brake hose bracket to the strut bracket and secure with the retaining bolts. If equipped with ABS, the wheel speed sensor cable routing clip is also attached to the strut bracket.
6. Install the wheel and tire assembly on the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts evenly, in sequence, to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
8. Have the toe checked and adjusted as necessary.

4 Quarts according to the book.

ask the car mechanic expert

Start by safely raising the rear end of the vehicle well above the ground. Note: it is best to change the fuel pump with as little fuel in the tank as possible. Once under the car locate the fuel tank and remove the large filler tube going into the side of the tank. Also, if equipped, remove the smaller tube next to the filler tube. Then, remove the two bolts furthest to the rear of the vehicle that are retaining the fuel tank hanger brakets. This should allow the tank to sag down in the rear end, allowing you access to the fuel pump wiring harness, vent tube, pressure line, and return line. Remove all of these carefully. Note beware of residule fuel pressure in the lines, also the fuel lines may require special disconnect tools to unfasten them from the pump assy. With all lines, tubes, and wiring removed from the tank, remove the brackets from the tank and manuver the tank to the ground. Move it to a well ventailated spot and then use a flat tip screw driver and a hammer to work the fuel pump assy. retainer nut couter clockwise off of the tank. Remove the pump assy. from the tank carefully and replace. Reverse procedure to reinstall. When attempting to start the vehicle the first time after service cycle the ignition key back and forth from the locked to the on position at least three times in order to prime the fuel system, as there is no fuel pressure in the lines following there removal. Also be sure to check closely for leaks once the vehicle is running. Then watch closely when adding fuel for the first time following service to ensure a proper seal at the filler tube.

ok, this is a good un!
have you ever stoped to think your old starter may have had nothing wrong with it in the first place?????
it could be a simpel brake in the wireing loom,,,,
i bet that one hurt "A"!
hook up a 12 volt light bulb to the small wire that go's to the starter and ground it to the car engine get a pall to turn the kye to start poshion and hold it there the 12 volt bulb should light up and stay lit if the kye is held over now give the wire harnes a good poke about to see if the light go's out? if it dose, fine the brake in the loom and fix it!

LICENSE PLATE LAMP BULB
REMOVAL

1. Remove screws attaching license plate lamp to rear bumper
2. Remove lamp from bumper.
3. Remove bulb socket from lamp.
4. Pull bulb from socket.

INSTALLATION

1. Install bulb into socket.
2. Install bulb socket into lamp.
3. Place lamp in position.
4. Install screws attaching license plate lamp to rear bumper.

Usually if a fuse blows when applying something else( brakes) indicates they are on the same circuit. Verify the brake lights don't work when the fuse is out or blown. If lights still are working then it's probably not related. If on same circuit then the extra load of the brakes is enough to blow the fuse. Insure you are putting in the correct fuse. Also, this indicates you fuel pump is in a strain either due to restricted fuel filter or worn pump. Replaceing the fuel filter now will only buy you a little time before the pump goes on out. It's blowing fuses because it's drawing more amps in order to run, but always replace filter when replacing pump.

You probably just need to "burp" your cooling system. Run the car (from cold) with the radiator cap open and the heater on full blast. As the engine heats up and the water level goes down, fill it up until it stays full and starts to overflow.

Regards,
matt

Fortunately the part probably costs about $10.00. Unfortunately the labor probably cost about $500.00.