20 Most Recent 1989 GMC C1500 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Check the ground wire over in that area, may be broken or rusty.

Check to see if the spindle is scared up,or has a bur on it,keeping the hub from going all the way on,if it has,take a flat steel file and file the bur down.Make sure you have the right replacement part,

this is the radio itself. depending on the year of the vehicle there is no computer for it (controller box). what year is the vehicle? i can tell you more. but even if it is linked to the bcm in the newer years symptoms are usally tracked back to the radio head unit itself.

can you tell me the issues you are having with it?

what is the exact code you are getting. give me the number

although fuel pump might be running it might not be pumping enough fuel chek fuel pressure at the rail and see if it meets factory specs if not replace if it does then you might have a problem with the injection circuit

it can leaking at a number of places
it could be the exhaust manifold itself or the flange where the manifold and exhaust pipe meet or at any of the joints on the exhaust pipes. or it could even be in the actul pipe itself. if you are on a tight budget you could go and ask a shop for an estimate on what it would cost to have the leak repaired.as many shops offer free estimates. sometimes the franchise shops will even fix it for free if it is a real quick fix. my wife had a flange put in for free at a shop because it only took the guy 10 min. to do it.

sounds like cruise control cutout switch but dont give me bad rap if i didnt have enough info.

Check your engine codes for anything , you can get free info on the web or get a repair manual. it can be one or more problems until you narrow it down.

grip the shaft where it meets the shock with a pair of "vise grips" or a small pipe wrench. use a small wire brush to get the rust off the threads.be carefull not to do this with the new one. the groves on the shaft will ruin the new one. also ive used a cutting torch just keep some water handy...... the rubber tends to catch fire good luck and if you need any more advise please feel free to ask away. ohh by the way check the ball joints on this they have a tendency to go bad. oh i love pb blaster its the best....... newer cars have the aluminum heads and the spark plugs tend to get stuck in the head. spay that on the plug and it frees the plug. ford explorers are the worst good luck

most times if you are installing a remanufactured
starter the proper shims would come in the box.
it's hard to tell what is going on from your discription.starter does not start ? does it make any noises, clicking sounds or anything ?

possible pickup coil in dist. bad.it sends a signal to ecm to open injectors when dist. is turning

i would check your throttle position sensor first

Could be bad crankshaft pisition sensor, usually is that sensor, or at least some type of sensor. All a car need is spark, fuel, and o2. So if you have all of these things, than you most likely have a bad sensor. Have you pulled each plug individually and tested for spark?
If you got good spark, and you are getting plenty of fuel to throttle body, than you may want to check your timing. You can test all your sensors and wiring with an ohmeter to check resistance. Place one probe on one side and the other on the other side while in OHM setting. If everything is good, you will get a reading, if the sensor is bad than you won't get a reading.

Sounds to me like you need to clean the battery post and the cables. Take off the batter cables and either take some sandpaper or a wire brush and clean the post and then do the same to the inside of the battery cables that comes in contact with the batter post.

size 17 mm > please rate my response thank you very much

This is how I do it. I spray alot of PB Blaster all over the connection and take a large hammer and hit the side of the pitman arm and keep spraying and hitting. It'll come loose and fall off. You have to break up the rust "welding" it together.

pitman arm? you need to replace the "idler arm" also. thats a pretty good job you will need a pitman arm puller and an impact wrench. then you will have to loosen the gear box to turn it about 25 degree to get to the bolt on the arm. then youl need a pickle fork to remove the tie rod. im asuming this is a 4x4 hope this helps good luck man

check or replace injector fuse or relay

I time these engines at 4 to 6 degrees BTDC. If there is timing chain wear or if it has higher mileage, I go to 8 BTDC. The extra degrees help with the timing chain stretch.