20 Most Recent 1989 GMC Sierra - Page 3 Questions & Answers

for automatic transmission the switch on column steering under dash near the floor white half moon switch for standard transmission on side of transmission hope it helps

use a test light unplug wiring harness beside frame rail and test to see if you have power at plug most the time it is a bad ground going up to taillight

No. The transfer case takes Dexron/Mercon 3. What was installed instead, for fluid? If motor oil or gear oil was used instead. That would not cause a clunk. It would cause a loss of fuel economy. When vehicles get old and the mileage ads up. Parts loosen up and/or wear out. Clunking in the drive train could be related to the transfer case but could also be related to the drive shaft or the rear drive axle. Worn or bad splines, U-joints (rusted, loose, or seizing), worn ring and pinion is possibe too. If I can be more help just let me know. The more information and details that you can give, the better. Thank you.

replace the radiator.

Check for cylinder misfire by pulling off the plug wires at the spark plugs. Use insulated pliers or you will get zapped. If that is inclusive do compression test

it may be in a bind and needs more shims

Pick the main power wire on the relay and the corresponding wire to the pump and connect them together. If the pump is ok it will run ( ignition in the run position)

Rip it out and fit a new aftermarket radio

It should be electric but check to see if there is a cable from the engine to the dash . Tachos (rev counter) normally get their impulses from the distributor and the power from the ignition run line

Hanes manual sold at oreilly auto parts for about $16

The ignition module located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Yes, you have an alignment problem somewhere OR...there is damage somewhere on one of the pulleys. If there is a sharp edge anywhere on any one of the pulleys, it could damage the belt pretty fast.

Have you not looked to find where it is leaking,do thatI would suspect that the filler tube has rustedYou could remove it & solder or silver braze a smallhole, if necessaryIt is possible that it leaks on top of the tank at the fuelpump gasket, in which case you know what has to be done

If it is electric speedo, there will be a relay or fuse in your canbus system, if its a mechanical speedo then it would be cable, it all depends on how old the vehicle is

lube the cable for speedometer first that the secret.However if your speedometer is electronic, the IC can be faulty, you need to replace itGod bless you

There is a short on the horn circuit