20 Most Recent 1997 GMC Jimmy - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Here's a video,it shows where that wire goes. 97 gmc jimmy ignition switch help

Neutral safety switch is out of adjustment or shorted it is located on side of the transmission under the shifter cable

Check the main belt, it may have failed.

1995-97 4.3L MODELS and 1995-99 2.2L models



Fig. 5: The starter motor on later model 4.3L engines is retained by two long bolts

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the front of the truck safely using jackstands.
3. If necessary for access, disconnect the front exhaust pipe.
4. If equipped, remove the starter heat shield.
5. On the 2.2L engine, remove the brace rod from the front of the engine and the bell housing.
6. On 2.2L engines, remove the drivers side wheel to access the starter motor wires and the starter motor attaching bracket-to-engine bolt through the opening in the wheel well.
7. Disengage the wires from the starter solenoid.
8. On the 2.2L engine, remove the attaching bracket-to-engine mount bolt.
9. Remove the starter-to-engine block bolts. When removing the last bolt, be sure to support the starter to keep it from falling and possibly injuring you.
10. Carefully lower the starter and shims (if equipped) from the vehicle.
11. If necessary, remove the bracket (2.2L engine) or the shield (4.3L engine) from the starter assembly.
    

To install:

1. If removed, install the bracket or shield to the starter, as applicable. Tighten the bracket nuts to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) or the shield nuts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
2. Carefully raise the starter and shims (if equipped) into position in the vehicle and thread one of the retaining bolts to hold it in position.
3. On the 2.2L engine, loosely install the bracket-to-engine mount bolt.
4. Install the remaining starter mounting bolt, then tighten all mounting fasteners to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
5. Engage the wiring to the solenoid as noted during removal.
6. On the 2.2L engine, install the brace rod and tighten the retainers.
7. If disconnected for access, install the front exhaust pipe and tighten the fasteners.
8. If equipped, install the starter heat shield.
9. On 2.2L engines, install the drivers side wheel.
10. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the truck.
11. Connect the negative battery cable.

Hope helps.

Been there. I made an "L" shape pick (old ice pick) Ground sides flat a little like key not to much you have to pry with it like you're turning the key End sharp to point. While pushing release through access hole insert your pick in key hole just so it hooks over inside edge. this will allow you to turn and pull at the same time as well as wiggle and get mad and then the SOB pops out. At least that's what happened to me. Hope this helps let me know if it works Mike

Is there a hiss under the dash when you step on the brakes? If yes, your booster diaphragm has torn. I have a post here on replacing the booster if that is the problem: http://www.fixya.com/cars/r9342823-swap_out_brake_booster_without_breaking

Jimmy 1995 2005 Workshop Service repair manual for the easy solution download the pdf file

Hi it sounds like you have a problem with the cylinder head or the cylinder head gasket .

Bad bearings in the front differential.

If the problem is at the wheel, two possible causes are a bad wheel bearing or worn brake pads. Both of these noises will only be experienced with the vehicle on the ground and moving. Also, if this is a FWD truck and it only occurs when accelerating, it can also be caused by a failing drive axle or bad transfer case bearing.

The whole assembly is GM Part # 15729236, I found this for sale on multiple sites. Parts and pieces can be had at the junk yard.

Let me answer the last of your letter first. The place I look for vehicle information is Consumer Reports. Unfortunately , they say your best bets are Honda's ( some) and Toyota's (some). This is not because they like them, it is because they "break" less often. They really do. Consumer Reports also say you car is prone to break a lot. And, you see, it is true. I have have all kinds of cars in the last 50 years, and their information is true. (I maintain about 10 -12 cars.) Next, mechanics. Cars today are so complicated few mechanics can keep up with them. Next, ball joints. If yours are failing that often, perhaps you should be aware that some have grease fittings in them, and will not wear out for many years. If the new ones you have been getting have no grease fittings, you need different ones. NAPA dealers sell the ones with grease fittings, and those need lubrication with a grease gun once a year for regular driving, or 2 -3 times a year for muddy, or off road driving. God bless your efforts.

stock should be a 6" by 9" if they are the 2 or 3 way, aftermarkets can have the speaker installed in a larger size if they have a hole cut larger. the size of the hole can be sltered

if 4 wheel disc bleeders are at the top of the brake caliper and if rear drum up middle back plate and the following link shows how to Yahoo Web Search

-Most likely broken timing belt. or bad crank sensor. Good luck mai

Too much draw on fuse?

They do clog up and will not drain. You probably found the drain. Pull the lower radiator hose. If you have access to air and can shoot it up in the hole. This might help you problem.

4WD To Remove:

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Oil level indicator
   • Front differential assembly
   • Starter
   • Transmission cover
   • Oil pan drain plug and drain the engine oil into a suitable container
   • Remote oil filter pipe adapter
   • Remote oil filter hose clip bolt on oil pan
   • Starter wire harness bracket stud
   • Transmission oil cooler pipes (if equipped)
   • Access plugs for oil pan rear nuts
   • Transmission to oil pan bolts
   • Oil pan nuts and bolts
     
     NOTE: The low oil level sensor is not reusable.
     
   • Remove and discard the engine oil level sensor (if applicable)
     
     
   • The oil pan
   • The oil pan gasket
2. Discard the oil pan gasket.
3. Clean all sealing surfaces on the engine and the oil pan.

To Install:
Note: Whenever the transmission and the engine oil pan are removed from the engine at the same time install the transmission before the oil pan. This is to allow for the proper oil pan alignment. Failure to achieve the correct oil pan alignment can result in transmission failure.

1. Apply a 0.197 inch (5 mm) wide and 1.0 inch (25 mm) long bead of adhesive GM P/N 12346141 (Canadian P/N 10953433) or equivalent to both the right and left sides of the engine front cover to engine block junction at the oil pan sealing surfaces.
   
   
   
   
2. Apply a 0.197 inch (5 mm) wide and 1.0 inch (25 mm) long bead of adhesive GM P/N 12346141 (Canadian P/N 10953433) or equivalent to both the right and left sides of the crankshaft rear oil seal housing to engine block junction at the oil pan sealing surfaces. Note: Always install a new oil pan gasket. The oil pan gasket and oil pan must be installed and the fasteners tightened while the adhesive is still wet to the touch.
   
3. Install the new oil pan gasket into the groove in the oil pan. Note: The oil pan alignment must always be flush or forward no more than 0.011 inch (0.3mm) from the rear face of the engine block.
   
4. Install or connect the following:
   • The oil pan onto the engine block
     1. Press the oil pan gasket into the grooves of the engine front cover and crankshaft rear oil seal housing
     2. Slide the oil pan back against a suitable straight edge
   • The oil pan bolts and nuts, but do not tighten
5. Measure the pan-to-transmission housing clearance using a feeler gage and a straight edge.
   
   
   • Use a feeler gage to check the clearance between the oil pan-to-transmission housing measurement points
     1. If the clearance exceeds 0.011 inch 0.3mm) at any of the 3 oil pan-to-transmission housing measurement points (A), then repeat the step until the oil pan-to-transmission housing clearance is within the specification
     2. The oil pan must always be forward of the rear face of the engine block
   
   
   
6. Tighten the oil pan bolts and nuts in sequence
   • Torque to: 18 ft lb (25 Nm).
7. Measure the clearance between the 3 oil pan-to-transmission housing measurement points in order to ensure proper alignment.
8. Install or connect the following:
   • A new oil pan drain plug seal (O-ring) onto the oil pan drain plug
   • Oil pan drain plug into the oil pan
     1. Torque to: 18 ft lb (25 Nm)
     NOTE: The low oil level sensor is not reusable.
     
     
     
   • New low oil level sensor
     1. Torque to: 115 in lb (13 Nm)
   • Transmission to oil pan bolts.
     1. Torque to: 35 ft lb (47 Nm)
   • Access plugs for the oil pan rear nuts
   • Starter wire harness bracket stud
   • Transmission oil cooler pipes (if equipped)
   • Remote oil filter pipe adapter
   • Oil filter hose clip bolt to the oil pan
   • Transmission cover and bolts.
   • Starter motor
   • Front differential assembly
   • Oil level indicator
9. Fill the engine with oil.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.

Un bolt master cylinder and pull forward and to side without disconnecting any lines. Get up under dash and disconnect linkage to front of booster pushrod (This can be tricky and hard on the neck and headbone). Remove vacuum check valve from booster, remove 4 nuts holding booster in place and remove unit. Installation is reverse steps.