20 Most Recent 1999 Buick Park Avenue Questions & Answers

Could be a coil breaking down , you did replace them did you ? Take a spray bottle of water an spray the coils , mite find cause of the misfire . Also look at coils for a discoloration , a rainbow affect . Or you can power brake the vehicle an take a test light an put neg . clamp end on battery neg . an then move the point end around the coils .

Did the problem come on suddenly or was some previous action or work done...

Changing the actual booster unit is a reasonably easy job. Usually 4 bolts through the fire wall and a clip on the back of the brake pedal. The difficult bit is getting to it. You will need to remove the Master Cylinder first and this is where the work is. Personally, for the hassles involved, I would pay a Good Mechanic to do it. They will have the tools and expertise to get it done quickly Some of the pipe fasteners are a soft metal and VERY easily damaged if you use the wrong tools. An Expensive mistake! Some engine bays give a small amount of room where you can unbolt and GENTLY move the master cylinder to one side to remove the booster. Other engine bays give you No room at all. This means you will need to disconnect and remove the Master Cylinder so it isn't in your way. This means you will have to bleed the braking system when you are done. You may possibly have to bleed the clutch as well if it is a hydraulic system and using a shared Master Cylinder.

there is a special tool for this job but I have cheated on this but you ned to be careful when doing this.The wishbone shaped mount on the front going from motor to front of vehicle, remove and it allows the motor to tilt.

Look for any broke fuse.If not you will need a service.

On this website you find ruse box diagram and description for Buick Park Avenue (1997 and 1999) Buick Park Avenue 1996 1997 fuse box diagram CARKNOWLEDGE http://www.carknowledge.info/buick-park-avenue-1998-1999-fuse-box-diagram

Could be something in the fan, I had the same problem once, it turned out to be a dead rat.

Or with that many kms on it, might be a bearing worn out, some blower motors are only fitted with brass bushes also that wear out.

This can be very difficult to diagnose. Check the battery after turning the car off after a trip (do a load test). The battery should be fully charged, and if not, you still have an alternator regulator or battery problem and the battery is not charging correctly. If this is the case, driving the car will eventually fully discharge the battery. If the battery is OK, then the car has several electrical circuits that are hot (power to them) at all times and one of them is probably continuously drawing unusually high current with the car turned off - these include interior lights, leveling compressor at the rear of the car, computers, remote control receiver and so on. You can start by carefully checking after you turn the car off and open then close a door if any light is being left on (inside the cabin, under the hood, in the trunk, in the glove box), if the compressor is running, or if anything sounds like it is running or making a low whining noise. If there is nothing obvious, you will need to check how much current is being drawn from the battery after the car has been off for a while using an ammeter in line with the negative battery cable (you will need to remove the underhood light bulb if there is one) - it should be very low (much less than around one amp). If not, remove one fuse at a time until the current draw drops substantially - this will identify the culprit circuit. In the meantime, a temporary solution might be to use a battery trickle charger when the car is not in use.

is one of these the same as yours maybe the drain Chanel is clogged a cable tie is plastic so poke one in the hole see if it starts to drain

Have you tried the reset method? Turn key to the ON position and leave it there for 10 minutes, or until the security light goes off. Then turn key to off, and back to on and start-see if it starts after letting it sit for a few minutes like that with the key in the on position.

Module is gone could cost up to $ 500.00

The PCM monitors the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve pintle position input to ensure that the valve responds properly to commands from the PCM. When the ignition switch is turned ON, the PCM learns the EGR learned minimum position. The PCM compares the EGR learned minimum position to the EGR position sensor when the EGR valve is commanded closed. If the EGR position sensor indicates that the EGR valve is still open when the PCM is commanding the EGR valve closed, this DTC will set.

Excess deposits on the EGR valve pintle or seat--Remove the EGR valve and check for deposits that may interfere with the EGR valve pintle extending completely or cause the pintle to stick.

Usually this will fix it but in some cases you may have to replace the egr valve.

sounds like you need to apply less force when opening the doors.

Go here for wiring diagrams of this and the other systems of the car. I think you will find you have a defective fuel pump. http://bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

It's one of the blend door motor drive gears that has cracked. As the motors try to move the blend doors to divert the air flow, the gear attached to them slips on the drive shaft. You need to remove them, inspect for the broken or cracked drive gear and replace them. This is a very common problem with these older GM vehicles.