20 Most Recent 1983 Chevrolet Silverado - Page 4 Questions & Answers

remove carb then put on a sheet of newspaper and give it a good clean out ,could you have filled up with diesel ?? have a sniff and see

4x2 or 4x4? In any event...it should have a TH350, a TH400, or a TH700. Count the bolts on the pan. The modulator valve on the TH350 points towards the rear of the vehicle. The modulator valve on the TH400 points out towards the passenger's side. The TH700 doesn't have one. Hope that helps. If so, Please leave a testimonial and rate my assistance. Thanks for using Fixya.

Try smacking the starter with a rubber mallet, sometimes they brushes will stick if it doesn't get used a lot, other times the solenoid will stick (but still click). A good smack will loosen them up, usually anyway.
I just went through this on a '71 Chevelle that had a new starter on it, the solenoid had started to fail and every time my neighbor tried to start it the starter needed smacked. He eventually replaced the solenoid and didn't have any problems after that.

Hello shanebuerman: My name is Roger and I will help you. If you are using transmission oil and see no leaks on the ground I would look at the transmission as the source of the problem. If you have a turbo-hydromatic 400 transmission look at the modulator valve. It will be on the passenger side of the transmission and have a vacuum line attached to it. This will be a metal line that runs over the top of the bell housing. The other end will be connected to the intake manifold at the rear of the carburator. When the diaphram ruptures the fluid is sucked out of the transmission and burnt in the engine. Pull the vacuum line from the valve and if there is any oil at the vacuum port you will have found the source of fluid loss. If you have a 700R4 overdrive transmission? and no external leaks.Look at the radiator as the source of the problem. The transmission coolers were known to leak in the radiators. This model transmission does not have a modulator valve. Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. THank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

Start the car then remove one of the battery head, if it goes off that means the alternator is bad. if not then check the fuse box.

You didn't mention what was in the 83. If it was a V8 smallblock, then no changes need to be made. All smallblock engines have provisions for engine mounts in the exact same places beginning in 1958.
If the engine had a 6 cylinder or a big block engine then you'd need to change the mounts. The mounts are bought according to the vehicle year they are used in. So, all smallblock mounts will fit your engine but may not match the holes in the chassis unless they are for that vehicle and year. (some do interchange though). Either way, no spacers or adapters are necessary..

Please check the fuel,fuel filter and the fuel pressure at the pump. If this is low then you will need to calibrate the pump. Also check the heaters and the injectors, if they have not been replaced for a long time you can check the injectors for blocks.
Please check the link below for some tips:

http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5843031-tips_check_car_not_start

The calibration to the speedometer is off. A resistor must have an open near the very beginning of the built in reostat
You can had it repaired by taking into any Chevy dealer

Please check the radiator, the prressure cap and the oil temperature. Check when the oil was changed. Also if the ignition timing is in order.
finally check if the radiator cooling fins are clean, there is no block within the radiator and the water pump is working fine.-- no noise heard.

You've got wires rubbing together in your rear harness. The first spot to check is the plug-in between the frame and box. It is located on the inside of the frame on the driver's side at just before the bumper. Quite often it builds up with corrosion and makes everything work funny.Look inside the plugs as well as inside the back where the wires go in. If it looks suspicious the easiest thin g to do is cut it out and splice the wres together. If you think you need to do this, use "heat shrink tube" instead of electrical tape. It is far superior.
If the plug-ins look good then your problem is most likely in the harness going up to the lights.I've never had a problem before with the harness going back from the fuse box. After you remove the tail light covers you can feed the harness, without the bulbs, down the hole in the box corner. Unwrap it and start checking for bare spots in the insulation. You'll have to tape them up unless you want to cut the wires for tubing. Start with the driver's side, it's usually where most of the problems are, but make sure you go all the way across and do the passenger side too.
The harness going to the back is in a hard plastic cover but unless the cover is worn through, it shouldn't be a problem. If you need to replace it, it comes right off the fuse block. Under the hood, ondo the bolt in the center of the fuse block and remove the plug in on your left. It may have 1 wire on it that doesn't go to the back of the truck. I just cut it and spliced it back into the new harness.
While you are doing this make sure you clean up your ground wires, bare metal to bare metal. Hope this helps.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome to the site. I need to ask a question please. Is it cranking or is it doing nothing?

pull the fuse out and look at the side if it is noticably burnt or melted its blown if neither make sure that the wire inside is still one whole peice and connected and if not its blown theyre easy and cheap to replace I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/josh_dda5b2442809dbaa

You need to remove this right away. There is a small petcock on the frame or possibly at the spring hanger to siphon the water out with. Simply attach a hose to it and open the valve and siphon the water out until you get pure diesel fuel. Then replace the primary filter on the firewall. It helps to fill it before you reinstall the new filter. Drain the filter into a bucket and check for water in it. If there is you will also have to change the secondary filter on the engine. Then prime the system to bleed the air out. If you get a lot of water you may need to consider dropping the tank and cleaning it as well. On 1983 and newer trucks the light will come on with as little as a quart of water, on older trucks it doesn't come on until there is a gallon.
You may want to look into picking up a copy of Haynes Diesel Engine Repair Manual, part #10330. For $20 it has excellent help and advice on this engine. Hope this helps.

Hi there tippo, It chould be the needle valves but i am more leaning towards the air/ fuel/ LPG not being at the correct ratio. If you are unfamilliar with running both gasses at the same time you may want to take it in to be adjusted. Also you can ask them what they are doing, a lot of shops out ther would be willing to show you how to make the adjustments. Mine would. I hope this helps you please leave feedback if i was of some assistance.

check all the fuses and check for a burnt fusable like in the wireing.then check the light switch and ignition switch.