20 Most Recent 1983 Chevrolet Silverado - Page 5 Questions & Answers

These are tricky to adjust when you know what you are doing.There are several different desigb cables and you will need to figure out hout to unlock the adjustment.Most have a metal plate that with a small hole you push down on and this will allow the cable housing to move back and fourth.You need to move the cable away from the carb towards firewall a couple clicks until you have a low speed(5-8 mph)2-1 kickdown.What this means is you take off with very little throttle and when it shifts to second push the pedal to the floor and it should down shift to first.Once you have achieved this you have the minimun adjustment.Now you can add more(same direction)until you have the shift firmness and timing that you prefer.I am assuming you have an overdrive transmission (700R4) if you have a 3 speed(THM350) this cable is only passing gear and can be adjusted by holding the lock mechanism off and someone holding the pedal to the floor.Let me know if I can help further.Good luck!

V6 and V8 take the same fuel pump.

Hope this helps.

For this to be done you must purchase a rear main seal by visiting your local parts store and then you must incline the engine remove drive shaft, remove transmission mount, and remove the transmission then you are able to access the rear main seal.

I'm fairly certain that your engine does not have a full circle external main seal (if when you remove the trans and flywheel you find the rear crank flange is bolted to the crank and not part of the crank, then I'm wrong) If it's not an external seal, it is two piece, located in the rear of the main bearing cap. That makes it necessary to remove the engine oil pan and the rear bearing. Before contemplating doing anything with that, make very sure that the leak is not from the intake or valve covers first. Otherwise you'd be doing ton of work for no reason. Wipe everything down and look carefully. If it's leaking fast it shouldn't be difficult to see.

What you should be looking for is first, air flow. Air filter need to be clean or only a limited amount of air can get into the engine. On the other end, exhaust needs to flow freely. If the converter is plugged up or there is any restriction in a pipe or muffler, nothing will flow correctly.(a bad cat will often make a wheezing sound but not always)
Next, you need fuel. Check your pump pressure. Low idle pressure can translate into inadequate fuel delivery at high speed. If you have a carburetor on there, check the filter in the fuel inlet. you also have a filter inside the tank on the pickup tube. If injected you have a line filter and the same as before, on the pickup tube in the tank. Obviously, a worn out pump can also cause low pressure.
If you have a mass air flow sensor, check that. Also check the throttle position sensor as that, along with the MAP sensor controls ignition timing to some degree. Of course, base timing needs to be set correctly. (Older GM smallblock engines like about 6 to 8 degrees advance BTC)
Only thing that you can't test is the ignition module in the distributor. Most times when they fail, they stop working completely but I have seen a few that have partial failures that cause a variety of strange problems.

Generally she don't run. That said, I'm sure you wouldn"t be posting if it did. If you have spark,it's good. Next thing, check for spark at the plugs. If none, then move back to the coil wire at the cap. If no spark there, then check at the coil tower. If no spark there, then get your 12 volt test light and check coil negative terminal while engine is cranking. It should flash. If not, suspect ign. mod. , however, it can still be caused by mag pickup in distributor. O also make sure you have 12 volts at coil possitive ,key on engine off.. I used to teach this stuff but it's been a while. If you have no spark , it's probably the mod, but it doesn't cost much to test the rest. Good luck, and get back to me with any questions!

It would be time to replace or rebuild the transmission. Temporary fixes is not going to help this anymore.

fuseable links are located a few inches away for each componet
starter solenoid
alternator
any other factory option that uses more than 30 amps per hour
I do think you have a connection problem or a cable internally corroded
take jumper cables and connect to the starter and compare the ohm readings
the solenoid wire can be corroded as well causing a no start and no voltage reading too

Absolutely add some fluid. You will destroy your new/used transfer case in a heartbeat running it on no fluid, especially since it has likely been out of a vehicle for a little while and completely dry. To be honest, you are probably lucky you never got it in gear, if you did, you would probably have about a handful of metal-flake dust now in the bottom of the case and it would be gone forever. Also, transfer cases do not usually have any kind of dipstick to check the fluid level, in fact I have never seen one with a dipstick and I have worked on cars and motorcycles as a hobby since I was 12 and I am now 44. Somewhere on the back of the transfer case (usually back, but you may have to look around it a bit) there will be 2 plugs like the ones you see on the bottom of your oil pan for your engine. Often they are in relatively the same place or at least same side of the case (sometimes not though). One plug is higher up than the other. The lower plug is your drain plug for when you want to change your fluid. The high plug is your filler hole and check hole. Typically, you would use a pump bottle or siphon to get fluid into the hole. You should typically fill it up until the fluid level is just below the hole and just starts to leak out of where you are filling it (remember however that this fluid is thick and can seam like it is dripping out but is only clogged up a bit taking its time to drain down a little, make sure it is full by sticking your finger or ? in the hole to see if the fluid is just below the hole, under filled or way overfilled will ruin the case as well, although it is pretty hard to over fill it when it starts leaking right at you). Now as far as the correct fluid, hopefully have the original owners manual and that will tell you exactly, if you don't, do an internet search to find the correct type. Some use Dextron (II) even though it is a ford whose transmission usually uses Type F, I don't think I have ever seen a TC use Type F but it is possible, others use gear oil or hyper lube and there are various weights and full, partial, and non-synthetics as well. Search until you have the right answer, you do not want to put the wrong fluid in or we will be right back to the beginning of this explanation with the handful of metal shavings again.
Good Luck
SCSTOCKS

This sounds like you may have a fuel pump gone bad. Turn the key and listen for a pump whine, if you DO hear one then i guess i am wrong but this is what i would most likely consider first

hmm..I don't think the first answer is correct I have an 86 suburban 350 and the filter is on the front of the carb under the air cleaner just as the fule line goes into the carb. there is about a 3/4 inch nut to open the fule line and the filter is inside.

read your instring paper manol.

if it will shift to 2 the clutches or sprag is busted

ck fuel line for bad hoses replace fuel pump

need more information

all you can adj is air jets turn in all the way then turn out till it runs good

replace bolts in starter the start might be crushing and losing up to