1993 Chevrolet S-10 - Page 10 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Sounds like you need a rebuild on your transmission. The overdrive is going out in the transmission system.

take a look at the coil pack. its seperate from the distributor. you can follow the wire on the distributor cap that says coil to find it. even though it may appear ok it could still be going bad. that would cause static and a sputter condition. its a good starting point. also, fuel pump could be getting weak. but the coil and plug wires would be your best bet to start with

CHECK THE TAIL SHAFT THERE IS A SNAP RING THAT IS KNOWN TO BREAK.

It Has A Line On It Or Its Cross Scratched To A Certain Spot. It Should Be Filled To This Level.

every 3000 miles or when its low

You are gonna Have too replace the Wiper Motor. There are Numerous Recalls from GM on the Faulty Wiper Motors.

try the drive line it may be out of balance 

the body has probably sagged on your truck one side of the shifter linkage goes to the body of the truck the other to the frame.when the body sags a little the angle of the linkage changes and the shifting suffers..........on the fire wall on the steering column is where the linkage connects follow that down and at the bottom of that linkage there it an adjustment bolt.....with the shifter in park loosen the bolt,move the adjuster up on the shaft as far as you can without forcing it too much,tighten the bolt.......adjust as necessary to make it shift properly
hope this helps.......Good luck!

the accessories on 4.3 gm is what they call a horse shoe so all of the pumps etc. that are run by the belt need to be removed(except water pump in most cases)most of the bolts go thru the bracket in to the heads so you wont find too many down on the lower part of the engine.
hope this helps....good luck!

The clutch pack in the trans has failed, u have no choice but to overhaul it.

pan will hold in place you need to be 100% sure all pieces are out if a piece gets up in the pump it can cause problems.shine a light up in there and be sure it is all out. sometimes have to use a pic and pull out

YOU NEED TO PULL THE CONNECTOR OFF THE ECM AND RUN A CONTINUITY TEST OF THE WIRES FROM THE TPS CONNECTOR TO THE ECM, THIS SOUNDS LIKE A POSSIABLE WIRING PROBLEM TO THE TPS

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Position a drain pan under the radiator, open the drain **** and drain the cooling system to a level below the heater core.
NOTE: Plug the heater core tubes to avoid spilling coolant in the passenger compartment during removal.


Disconnect the heater-to-engine coolant hoses from the core tubes on the fire wall, in the engine compartment.
NOTE: On some early model vehicles, the cabin light mounted under the dash may interfere with cover removal. If necessary, loosen the retaining bolt and reposition the light housing with the wiring attached.


From the passenger compartment (under the dash) remove the heater core rear case cover-to-cowl screws, then remove the cover from the vehicle.
NOTE: On a few of the early model vehicles covered by this manual, some of the heater core cover screws may be partially/fully covered by the dashboard. Be sure that all are removed before attempting to remove the cover. If necessary, unbolt and reposition all/part of the dashboard for better access.


Remove the straps or brackets from each end of the heater core.
Carefully remove the heater core from the cowl and case.
Installation is the reveres of removal. Run the engine at normal operating temperatures and check for leaks

check for servo under battery

it could be rebiuldable but youd have to take the motor out and take it to a machine shop to have it tested. or it could be as simple as a timing belt busted

Have you checked your u joints?

A leakdown test is where you remove the spark plug from the problematic cylinder,and install an adapter and air hose,shop air,about 90 to 120 psi.You have to be certain both valves are closed on that cylinder,and i do this by removing the valve cover on that bank,rotate the crankshaft and watch the rocker arms work on that cylinder,and watch them close completely.Now,install the shop air,and listen for air hissing in the tailpipe,this checks the exhaust valve,and then the intake manifold,this checks the intake valve.Now,you can also listen in the crankcase,and if you hear hissing in the crankcase,then you have bad rings,or a piston with a hole in it.

it is probally a vacume line leak or bad ac pump

S10 PICKUP , NOT BLAZER S10- , NO ENGINE TOLD NO DRIVE LINE TOLD.! NO VIN TOLD. ENGINE RUNS FINE? DRIVES FINE AND ALL OTHER THINGS WORK THIS IS ALWAY SQUESTION 1 FOR ANY ELECTRIC FAILURE. 4l60E TRANSMISSION? OR STICK SHIFT, iT MATTERS TOO. THE 4L60 E HAS VSS VEH, SPEEDS SENSOR ON THE TAIL SHAFT OF THE BOX.. no speedo cables here. this year. the cluster has 1 fuse, Marked INST-lps if blown the much of the cluster dies. means insturment lamps(LPS) the question really is , all fuses good. and if automatic trans does the VSS go to the TCM (so it can shift right) then the TCM tells the ECU speed too. then it sense speed data to the cluster. sadly the scans of the old paper book , are blurry and 100 pages long, i refuse to read all of those for all engines there or transmissions not told. NO FUSE JUST FOR IT.!! 1992 IS THE SPEEDO ONLY DEAD? AND ALL OTHER CLUSTER THINGS WORK>? OR NOT. oil gauge, fuel ,voltage meter, and odom? ,eng. temp? ALL FUSES GOOD, IS FIRST. JUST CHECK THEM ALL NOT WORRY WHICH IS WHICH. SPEEDO DEAD, OR BOUNCES OR STUCK HIGH. WHAT? ODOMETER DEAD"MILES) DEAD? OR WHAT? ING fuse must be good , goes to cluster too. the book, deep looking shows DRAC vehicle speed sensor buffer;. here it is, and it drives the cluster directly so is sensor ,wiring or the buffer bad. the signals are very weak so the board here is a Ampifier it states vss to ecm, tcm and cluster. so if the ECM cans show the VSS dead we know the DRAC is bad or the sensor left hear is dead. the red circle below is cluster INPUT VSS. CHECK ALL FUSES. i CAN'T