1993 Chevrolet S-10 - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues
What would cause truck to shake very hard or rough when starting?
I really need to know the mileage.....?..also the question isn't very clear ...Is the whole truck shaking roughly or is the engine shaking roughly or is it both the engine and truck shaking..?..Since I am not sure I will answer what I can....Ok......If the truck is shaking while sitting still at idle the engine/trans mounts could be worn and or loose mounting hardware...If the engine is running roughly at idle causing all to shake that bad it could be a number of things causing it as usual...Quite often a faulty plug wire/and or bad plug will make it have a misfire because it will be running on only 5 cylinders..If that's the case it could be more than one bad...A vacuum leak will cause it to perform in the same manner...however all cylinders will be firing..Normally a vacuum leak is easy to pinpoint..however it could be a faulty IAC valve..(IDLE AIR CONTROL)..The idle air control is designed to hold a high idle at start up then slowly bring idle down to proper Rpm.....A faulty TPS (THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR) will also cause a rough running problem..And let's not forget the O2 sensor..(OXYGEN SENSOR)..The O2 sensor controls air/fuel mixture...and yes an exhaust manifold gasket will make it run rough but not too bad...It has a rough running sound more so than causing it to horribly shake..It will shake but not to bad..
it is located at the exhaust side of engine..The exhaust manifold is mounted to the engine exhaust port..the exhaust pipe is mounted to the exhaust manifold and the muffler/cat converter is mounted to the exhaust pipe...You can check the plug wires quickly..With engine running carefully remove plug wires 1 at a time..If the sound of engine gets worse the wire you removed is good..after verifying it is good or bad plug wire back on then pull the next wire..and so on..If you pull a wire off and there is no change in engine operation that is the bad wire..If that is the case change all plugs and wires...One at a time..(It is a good idea to make sure all wires come off easily before starting engine..old wires will come apart easily..grasp wire tightly at boot and twist left to right while pulling..)as far as the other components I spoke as well as many others,the best,easy way is to have it hooked to a scanner and they can check/test all components for proper operation...Now..If it runs good but is shaking the engine/trans mounts are worn as I stated earlier..any loose engine component will cause an engine shake also but you should notice it at a glance...engine mount bolts/nuts being loose can be tightened without changing mounts if caught in time..Trans could be coming loose.also worn clutch will cause vibration...Send more info and I can guide you to remove and replace any faulty components you may find to save you money.........Brooks/Metalpoet.....
on Jun 11, 2014
1993 s10 2.5L the aldl not responding and code reader says module not responding
Now you need a wiring diagram & work your way back on all
of the ALDL Pins or wires, to see if their good end to end
Then you need to see what data some of them are supposed
to have at the connector.
21 years -- most likely some corrosion in the wiring, where somewhat exposed to the road,engine bay, etc
The ses light,idle,& such are another issue to work on.
I think the codes, if any, are less help than component testing
the vehicle sensors & wiring
The OBD1 Systems had common sensor wiring or grounds shared,
so grounds & failed sensors can effect other sensors & send
you all sorts of places, rather than walking down every wire with
a wiring diagram to see what's what
on Mar 20, 2014
1993 s10 transmission slips. Need to know what to
Get it up in the air - pull the driveshaft, the linkage and any sensor wiring, pull, drain and cap the cooling fluid lines and then just start unbolting everything around the bell-housing. I forget if mine had a cross member stabilizer bar bolted from side to side of the chasse? but obviously that will have to come off also.
Afterthought: If it's not slipping that badly and you don't feel like tackling this big job right away. Drain the fluid and replace it with (I can't think of the name) but they make a fluid to help stop slipping tranny's. I'm sure you can get it at Advanced auto. If you have never changed a tranny, even if you are good with your hands turning a wrench - and you are outside without a lift and working off jack stands (DON'T DO IT!!!) Also, if you are alone? You will need a floor jack when it comes time to slide the tranny back and drop her down. Do you plan on fixing the tranny yourself? or going to a junk yard? Junkyards will guaranty there products, but they don't guaranty the one your getting doesn't have issues, because they don't know. they just pull them label them and wait to sell them to a guy like us. What if you spend the whole weekend pulling and installing the new/used one and it too slips. There goes next weekend back under the vehicle while the wife/girlfriend stares at you from the window yelling things like: "You almost done? I want to go to the Mall! Or worst of all!!! Then her mother comes over and they both stare at you from the window. maybe she brings her husband who leans over and talks to you from the engine compartment with his own tranny war-stories. As you can tell I'm thinking back at my own nightmares. But, I'm fifty-one now and all three of those people are now dead. Today when I have car issues I use the money from their life insurance to pay for them... So don't despair it all works out in the end.
on Oct 06, 2013
Ac only comes out of defrost and floor vent, not
The ducts have dampers that work off of a vacuum and control the flow of air to the different air vents at the top, bottom and face of the dash. Sometimes the vacuum lines come loose or break. You'll need to look under the dash to see if any of these conditions exist.
on Aug 15, 2013
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