20 Most Recent 1993 Ford Bronco - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Scan the system with a scaner

does it start if you spray starting fluid down the intake?

Usually a sign of a faulty idle air control valve or a dirty throttle body.

that sounds like maybe a couple of wires got crossed recheck the wire digram and then check the wires, next check the cap and rotor it might be cracked start with these things

check fuel pump & spark coil line.

I am sending a schematic but if it is hard to read here are the fuses.
1. Fuse panel check #1 and #8 fuse. They are a 30amp and a 15amp.

The nylon bushings and plunger in the shift tube assembly is worn and needs to be replaced... I would replace the whole assy. because it's the best way to get ALL the slack out and they aren't that expensive...The shift tube and plunger work together. After you install the parts you can adjust to where your shift indicator needle is lined up with the letters and numbers on the dash. You have to drop the steering column to get to everything, remember to disconnect the little string that runs from the back of the shifter up to the needle indicator before you lower the column down to rest on the seat...if you don't it will break! I hope this helps...good luck with the Bronco.

Have you verified you have 12Vdc to the bulb holder? You could have a bad ground which would not allow current to flow. Using a volt meter and with the lights on measure from the hot side of the harness to ground (chassis ground) I do not know the wire color so try either wire to ground and when you find the wire with 12 Vdc go and check continuity of the other wire to ground. If you do not have continuity you have a bad ground somewhere in the harness.

If you do not have 12 volts on either wire check for voltage on either side of the fuse. Sometimes even thought the fuse is bad you can still have continuity issues with the fuse holder itself. Good luck!

You need to check your alternator circuits. If the alternator itself tests good (I am assuming it was removed from the vehicle and taken to a parts store for testing) then the only thing left are the alternator circuits themselves. The large BLACK/ORANGE wire needs to have direct connection to the battery. This connection needs to be clean and tight with little or no resistance....This needs to be checked with an ohm-meter to verify. The rest of the circuits depend on what your vehicle is equipped with. 1993 Ford Broncos were originally equipped with two different charging systems. One had an integral regulator (regulator built into the alternator) and an external regulator. (voltage regulator mounted on the fender, separate from the alternator.) If you have the external regulator, that is what I would suspect as the cause of your problem. If you have the internal regulator, then I would check for battery voltage on the two BLACK/ORANGE wires and the YELLOW/WHITE wire at all times, and the LIGHT GREEN/RED wire should have battery voltage only with the key in the ON position.

My advice is to scout a Salvage yard and see what they use on other vehicles. My 1984 F250 Diesel used one and the canister was on the drivers side by the upper fender. It rusted and I think I went to Autozone for a replacement. They are called Vacuum Reserve Canisters. Check out the Internet, some canisters had different ideas on the Vacuum fittings.

No a shim is not required.If you are getting a high pitched noise when starter is engaged either starter drive gear is bad or flywheel teeth are missing.

With not much info to go on I would say a good place to start is with a complete tune up and fuel and air filters,pcv, as needed. Lee

Probably fluid was spilled when it was topped off last time. Or, the trans was overfilled and the excess pushed out of the dipstick tube.

IDENTIFICATION

There are 4 different types of alternators found on the years and model ranges covered in this information:

1. Rear Terminal, External Regulator, External Fan Alternator
2. Side Terminal, Internal Regulator, External Fan Alternator
3. Leece-Neville 165 Ampere Alternator
4. Integral Rear Mount Regulator, Internal Fan Alternator

Rear Terminal, External Regulator, External Fan Alternator
This unit utilizes a separate, external electronic regulator. The regulator is non-adjustable. The rear terminal alternator was standard equipment on 1987 trucks, and can be found on some 1992 motor home chassis models equipped with the 7.3L diesel or 7.5L gasoline engine.
Side Terminal, Internal Regulator, External Fan Alternator
This unit was optional on 1987, standard on all 1988-92 models and standard on 1993-96 models equipped with the 4.9L and 7.5L engines. The regulator in integrated within the alternator body and is not adjustable.
Integral Rear Mount Regulator, Internal Fan Alternator
This alternator is standard equipment on all 1993-96 models equipped with 5.0L, 5.8L gasoline engines and 7.3L diesel engines (except the 1996 F-Super Duty models).
Leece-Neville 165 Ampere Alternator
This unit is optional equipment on some 1989-94 trucks and ambulance packages. A separate, electronic, fully adjustable regulator is employed in this system.
Mitsubishi 215 Ampere Alternator
This unit is found on 1996 F-Super Duty models equipped with the 7.3L diesel engine. The regulator is integral and the fan is external.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4

Fig. Fig. 1: Disengage all wiring harness connections from the alternator

Fig. Fig. 2: Once it is unbolted, maneuver the alternator from the engine compartment

Fig. Fig. 3: Side terminal alternator

Fig. Fig. 4: Rear terminal alternator

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Remove the adjusting arm bolt.
3. Remove the alternator through-bolt. Remove the drive belt from the alternator pulley and lower the alternator.

Some engines are equipped with a ribbed, K-section belt and automatic tensioner. A suitable tool must be made to remove the tension from the tensioner arm. Loosen the idler pulley pivot and adjuster bolts before using the tool..

1. Label all of the leads to the alternator so that you can install them correctly and disconnect the leads from the alternator.
2. Remove the alternator from the vehicle.
3. To install, reverse the above procedure. Observe the following torques:
   
   Pivot bolt: 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm) Adjusting bolt: 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm) Wire terminal nuts: 60-90 inch lbs. (6.8-10.1 Nm)