20 Most Recent 1993 Ford Bronco - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Check the linkage at the transfer case. There is also the switch to the light located near there. Check for worn out ujoints in the linkage this will keep it from fully

i would try a thermostat and not trust the gauge.

The large line coming out of the firewall. The cold line.The fitting is the large one opposed to the small one on the high side.. Be careful and good luck

Do not drill out there is a pin hole in the side of the switch visible after removing the covers around the swithch you may need to remove the steering wheel I never had to turn the ignition swith to on position and then put a pin or small drill bit in the pin hole push in on it and then simultaneously pull out on the chrome key tumbler wiggle it abit while pushing in on the bit to remove center tumbler assembly/contacts.

check the ecm module. if its remoted, its on the dr's side fenderwell under the hinge. otherwise its on the distributor body. check cap and rotor, and the pip sensor in the distributor. those components control the spark timing and del. also check eec relay in the box on the dr's side fender. position one is the eec relay and fuse 22 is for that circuit

Bottom pan has to come off. Grab a gasket , if none available, silicone designed specifically for that use, not just any old silicone. Do filter while your at it. Pay special attention to way filter comes off, so it goes back on same way.

Bad shocks or wheel bearings or ball joints...........

it most likely seems to be the handle bracket the rods are attached to are froze. a lot of penetrating oil such as PB blaster needs to be applied. work the handle several times. it may take several applications to get it free enough to open if you have access to the back side of the handle channel lock the two brackets till it opens remove the handle and work it free. In most cases the repair wont last too long. I get a lot of tailgate handles I have to replace because of the oxidation between the two metal brackets joined togather

the cable is a mechanical part which you can do yourself,not to much money.thats where i would start

This should help even though its not a Mustang. Same motor and spec.

Bob, yes you can adjust the steering box with out problem.

sparking plug or fuel pump

It will more then likely be a bad transfer case shift motor if the locking hubs are in good shape and the switch is good.

have you checked to ensure that the actuator is working? if the actuator isn't working then the ring gear wont engage and won't turn the front shafts. try turning your key to accessory and put the truck in 4wd

if you have enough metal lie left either flar it or use copression unions too tie it back together

You need to remove the Steering wheel.
Remove trim shrounds.
Set ignition switch to Run position.
If your vehicle is A/T trans. put the selector lever in Park.
You will see retaining pin. Push retaining pin inward and pull out the lock cylinder.
Unplug wire from lock cylinder.
To install reverse remove procedure.

NOTE'' If you don't have the key or the cylinder is locked.
Instead of push the retaining pin you will need to Drill with a
1/8 in ( 3.17mm) Bit to drill out the retaining pin.
Be careful DO NOT drill more than 1/2 in deep.
After you need a chisel to break away the cylinder cap.
You need a 3/8in (9.52mm) bit to Drill in center of the cylinder.
Drill aprox. 1 3/4 in( 44mm) Deep.
REmove metal shavings. And remove the cylinder.
Clean and lubricate the gear inside. and install the new cylinder

The two pieces at the bottom of the window attach seperately to the sheet metal. There is an inside and an outside piece. They grip the sheet metal with clips. You will need to press them on or tap lightly to install. They can be difficult to install. Make sure the clips line up with the slot and press into place. The same goes with the seal around the window. It pushes in to the gap.

Your post soes not really say what the problem is. However I am thinking your are asking how to disconnect the fuel line from the pump. There is a disconnect tool you can purchase cheaply for the Fords. There are several sizes. This tool slides over the fuel line and presses towards the connection. Then it pushes a spring back to release the line at the connection. Any parts store sells these plastic pieces that are fuel line disconnect tools. Good luck.

You obviously need to bleed the line. You are not getting enough movement to disengage the pressure plate when depressing the clutch pedal. The systems can be a little tough to bleed air from. Keep at it. You will get it. The secret is to keep the reservoir full while bleeding and not let more air back it at the slave down below. Good luck.

Sounds like it is the tube to part of your emissions equipment. It usually goes to another hose that goes to a one way valve from the air pump for the air injection for your exhaust gas recirculation system. These are prone rust and can be purchased from Ford for replacement.