Top 20 2003 Ford Expedition Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. It is a known issue when you change the brake light switch. It says in the link it has to be reset. https://www.google.com/search?q=2003+Ford+Expedition.+I+changed+the+brake+light+switch+on+it+and+the+cruise+control+stopped+working ..

In the link https://www.fixya.com/cars/r26142776-want_bypass_vehicle_security_system ..

You disconnected the battery. Reset the anti-theft system and engine immobilizer. https://www.google.com/search?q=2003+ford+expedition+anti+theft+reset ..

14 volts charge is correct. Standing voltage on a good fully charge battery is 13.2 volts or so. I check one on charge with a 6 amp charger and it was 14.2 volts. It dropped to 13.8 with charger off.

Sounds like solenoid is getting stuck on .mite need to change your starter.

Loosen all of the nuts on the tire while it's still flat on the ground before you Jack it up Do not leave any boats Tighten while is on the ground you can actually bring them all way to the end of the stud before you jack it up

Could it be the pedal extension malfunction....The button where you can bring the gas pedal closer? Just guessing

Said safety switch would normally be positioned in the edge of the body seam where the gate can close it. Sounds like it just needs adjusted out closer to the gate. If no adjustment, put a washer of some kind under it. Washer can be anything as long as the switch body is touching metal to complete the circuit when you push it back in.

I found this link online. Hopefully it helps you out. :)


https://fusesdiagram.com/ford/fuse-box-diagram-ford-expedition-2.html

That would typically mean your alternator is going bad.

If replacing the blower motor resistor (under the passenger side dash, mounted on the front blower motor assembly) does not fix the problem, then the other likely candidates are listed below. (in your case, since both the front and the rear blower motors are not working, it is most likely #1 or #2, but it could still be #3. Hope its #1 or #2, which are both inexpensive to replace: 1. Blower Motor fuse. The blower motor fuse is located in the ENGINE COMPARTMENT fuse box (not in the inside the vehicle dash panel fuse box). It is the 40 amp (Orange) fuse located in the 4th position from the metal clip side. To open the box lift the plastic tab on the box end away from the box, until the lid lifts up. It is hinged on the other end. The 40amp Orange Blower Motor fuse is sandwiched between 3 RED 50 amp fuses on one side, and a 30amp and siver-metal-cased, and 20 amp fuse on the other side, in the central column of the fuse box. This is the most common failure of the system. You can pull the fuse with a pair of pliers, and inspect it. If blown, the metal u-turn shaped wire ribbon in the fuse will clearly have a burned break in it. Or you can test it with the continuity setting of a volt meter. A good picture is available at the URL below. https://i.ytimg.com/vi/joAmtVZL_ck/maxresdefault.jpg 2. Blower Motor Relay. (Located under the dash, on the driver's side, to the RIGHT of the driver's steering wheel). It is in a block of 3 or 4 relays, see the owners manual for which one, or swap in a new relay to each of the 4 positions one at a time. All four relays use the same standard Ford relay component.) DO THIS STEP ONLY AFTER CHECKING THAT the FUSE IS GOOD (in step 1). 3. Blower Motor electronic speed control unit is bad. (under the dash on the passenger side behind the glove box. To get at this you must remove the glove box rear backplate (6 screws, 2 on the latch, 2 others on the top, 2 at the bottom on each edge. The one at the bottom console edge is hard to find, but its there.) Then unbolt and replace with a new electronic controller unit. Expensive from dealer, I would get one at a junk yard, self pull if comfortable with DIY, and otherwise pay more for it to be removed by the yard, or a yard puller hire-able employee.) Unbolt the controller, and unplug it, plug in and bolt in new one. ONLY ATTEMPT #3 if you have checked BOTH #1 and #2 first. #1 is by far the most common #2, next most common, the controller least common (but the do fail sometimes.)

May have stripped out in that direction .

"The hot water check valve line runs into the firewall..it goes to the port closet to the passenger side. The main vacuum hose from the engine runs across to the canister behind the battery. There are two check valves in the main line. 1st check valve is close to the engine and its just a straight valve and the other check valve is close by the computer and has a tee built in it. The tee part runs down to the only and last port running into the firewall and there you have. Air and heat coming out the vents or defrost when you command" Someone else did the hard work for me. Good luck.

Any idea what might be draining the battery ? That would be guessing , doing a elecrical test, parasitic drain or draw . Checking for current flow over the fuse's till you find to much current draw is the easiest way . We test , not guess . Guessing cause the replacement of parts that don't need to be replaced . Improved Methods to Find Parasitic Draw Battery Drains Overnight The BEST Way TO Perform Parasitic Draw Test How To Perform Parasitic Draw Test EricTheCarGuy

If you're finding it difficult to service/repair your car, get one of those online manuals. You'll not have to wait for others to answer, or rely on mechanics and all. Plus i know a website that has very good manuals online, without expiry i.e. for lifetime. www.reliable-store.com

run quality injector through the system have no1 injector repaired it is most probable an injector problem

sounds like a faulty instrument cluster

See if your battery cables are loose.

Ya'll should not be driving it and git yer mechanic to take a look at it asap. And start saving as it'll cost ya heaps..

You will need a circuit diagram in order to understand how the system works and whether digital electronics and black boxes play any part - as is often the case with later model vehicles. Repairing a fault without knowing how something works requires lots of luck...