20 Most Recent 2003 Ford Explorer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

does the version come equiped with rear park sensors???????? Does your vehicle have or could have parking aid ? Yes . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on interior & driver Amenity ,then under subsystem click on parking Aid . Click the search button then the blue link. The parking aid module is located behind right rear trim panel Parking Aid Module CAUTION: Electronic modules are sensitive to electrical charges. If exposed to these charges, damage may result.

1. Remove the RH interior trim. For additional information, refer to Section 501-01 .

1. Remove the parts in the order indicated in the following illustration and table.

Inspection and Verification

1. Verify the customer concern.

1. Visually inspect the following for obvious signs of electrical damage. Visual Inspection Chart Electrical
   • Central junction box (CJB) fuse 26 (7.5A)
   • Circuitry
   • Parking aid sensors
   • Parking aid disable switch and LED
   • Parking aid speaker
   • Reversing lamps

1. If an obvious cause for an observed or reported concern is found, correct the cause (if possible) before proceeding to the next step.

1. If the cause is not visusally evident, connect the diagnostic tool to the data link connector and select the vehicle to be tested from the diagnostic tool menu. If the diagnostic tool does not communicate with the vehicle:
   • check that the program card is correctly installed.
   • check the connections to the vehicle.
   • check the ignition switch position.

1. If the diagnostic tool still does not communicate with the vehicle, refer to the diagnostic tool operating manual.

1. Carry out the diagnostic tool data link test. If the diagnostic tool responds with:
   • SCP+, SCP-, UBP or ISP circuit fault; all electronic control units no response/not equipped, refer to Section 418-00 .
   • No response/not equipped for parking aid module, Go To Pinpoint Test BC .
   • System passed, retrieve and record the continuous diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), erase the continuous DTCs and carry out self-test diagnostics for the parking aid module.

1. If the DTCs retrieved are related to the concern, go to the Parking Aid Module Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index.

1. If no DTCs related to the concern are retrieved, GO to Symptom Chart to continue diagnostics

Found this info in your owners manual. The relays are on the reverse side of interior fuse block. If you don't have an owners manual, fleet.ford.com, has your owners manual. You can read it online for free.

The code is usually specific to the radio and should be recorded in your car handbook/documentation. if you no longer have this Ford dealer may be able to help.

Try inspecting the transfer case motor and any electrical attatched to it first.

The fuses for the seat are shared with other features on the car such as power antenna. Has any other power feature gone off as well? Check the runners the seat slides in. There might be something trapped in there blocking the running action. There are two fuse boxes. One under the hood in the rear drivers side corner, under a black plastic cover. The other is inside the car, inside the end panel of the dash. (With the door open). Check fuses 1 and 18 as they cover the power seat functions. https://autobonches.com/amp/fuse-box/2003-ford-explorer-fuse-box-diagram/

Can a head phone be plug into the unit and if so - can you hear sound over the head phone. Also first look if nothing is stuck in the head phone jack (where it is plugged in as kids tend to stuff small objects into it). If sound can be heard over the head phones the unit is ok. The problem then lies with in the speaker output circuitry. The speaker output wiring has most of the time a inbuilt fuse that protects the circuitry when the speaker wires are shorted out when power (volume) is on. The unit has to be opened to replace it by a knowledgeable person.

Believe it or not, the master switch could have failed. This may or may not work, especially if the master switch receives power first and then provides power to each individual switch. Try each window at each door to see if they respond. If they do, then the problem is very likely at the driver's door switch itself. Next if the other doors are inactive at their respective switches, remove the driver's switch from the arm rest and take a test light and backprobe the red wire which is usually the main power feed and check for power, If there is power present, then attach your test light's alligator clip to the red wire, then take the point and back probe the black wire to confirm there is ground to the switch. If the test light doesn't light up, then take a jumper wire and attach one end to a reliable ground source, then temporarily backprobe the black wire with the jumper wire, and try the switch. Now keep in mind that the window switch also has other wires that are bidirectional, which are outputs. They usually are brown and blue. Can you get your hands on a wiring diagram? Also if you offer the year, make and model of your vehicle, it would be helpful as it would allow others to give you vehicle specific instructions.

have the fault codes read could be a throttle position sensor / motor or accelerator position sensor fault

lubricating rubber or plastic makes the wear worse replace the worn or failing parts

Get the codes pulled . codes will tell you where to start. Write codes down and google them.

Have you pulled codes yet?

go the given link get the repair manual and solve the problem your self this manual will help to locate the problem and how to fix http://toolsnyou.com/

If you charged the unit correctly without gauges, after a few minutes of operation in warm environment your suction line should be cold to the touch and sweating.

Well, it's usually at the lowest point of the transmission. You didn't state if you have a manual or automatic. If it's an automatic, some manufacturers are no longer providing drain plugs because the fluid shouldn't need changing under normal conditions for a long time. When it does need changing, it's drained by loosening the pan bolts and allowing the oil to spill out while slowly loosening the bolts.

You probably have a problem with the charging system. The alternator is a likely cause.

its the solonoids on the solonoid block, 3 of them are sticking, there is alot of videos on what to do,on you tube, very common problem, mine runs and shifts great now

if your lifters are sticking, you can try using MARVEL MYSTERY OIL. depending on the mileage and whether it's dual over head cam or over head valve ,their is a chance that a cam lobe could be worn or a rocker could be worn or slipped off. a lifter will collapes and some can even replaced without removing the head.

run the fault codes first to stop wasting money on guesses fix what the codes show as faulty