Top 10 2004 Ford F250 Questions & Answers

this problem can be related to the EGR, if you let them idle to much they get coked up and get stuck in the open position(not allowing enough fresh air in). also change the fuel filters like every 2-3 oil changes.It's expensive but worth the effort.

this is an oil pressure problem, either a sensor is not sensing enough oil pressure, or the high pressure pump is not building enough pressure(possibly leaking or head is leaking). this engine requires 450 psi minimum oil pressure at the injectors to actuate the injectors.

With the hublocks in the AUTO position, the 4x4 ESOF system uses timed vacuum sequences to lock and unlock the wheel ends when switching the instrument panel MSS between 2WD and 4x4 modes. A high vacuum level (222 mm [8.75 in] Hg and greater) is applied to the hublocks to lock the internal spring mechanism that engages (locks) the hublocks for 4x4 mode, and a lower vacuum

level (114 to 184 mm [5.9 to 7.1 in] Hg) is applied to unlock the spring mechanism that disengages (unlocks) the hublocks for 2WD mode.

The vacuum system is actually pretty simple. On the passenger side firewall is an electric vacuum pump. There is a vacuum line coming off of it that goes over to a vacuum reservoir. Also connected to the reservoir is a T fitting with two lines from it. One line goes forward into the cab to the heater controls. The other line enters a loom and goes to the PVH (Pulse Vacuum Hublock) solenoid. This solenoid controls vacuum to the automatic hub locks.

The first tests I would do are pretty simple. With the key in the RUN position, unplug the line at the pump. The pump should start running immediately. Put your finger over the nipple and the pump should stop immediately. This verifies your pump is good.

Once you've done that, I'd hook the pump back up, leave the key in RUN and watch the system for awhile. Maybe 10 to 15 minutes. The pump should run long enough to pull a vacuum in the reservoir and all the lines and then shut off. If the system holds and the pump doesn't come back on, then you've essentially verified that the reservoir, the lines going forward to the heater controls, and the lines going to the PVH solenoid are all good and not leaking.

If the pump cycles back on regularly, then you have a leak somewhere in those lines or the reservoir and you need to start tracing them out to find it. Start at the reservoir, disconnect a line on the pump side, plug it and see that the pump pulls down a vacuum and holds it. Reconnect that line and move down to the next connection and do the same thing. Continue this procedure until you've traced down all the lines. If you get to a point where the pump continues to run, or cycles on and off, then you've found a leak in the last section of line you've tested.

If all of the lines up to the PVH solenoid test good, then you're left with the solenoid itself, the lines from the solenoid to the hubs, or the hub seals. This is where a good hand vacuum pump with a gauge comes in handy. You can attach the pump at the line going down to the hubs, pump up about 14 PSI of vacuum and see if it holds. If it does, then the lines and the hub seals are good. If it doesn't, then start working down towards the hubs, isolating lines to see if they hold vacuum. It is common to find cracked lines going down to the hubs this way. If you get all the way to the hubs, attach your pump to the vacuum nipple on the back of the hub, pump up about 14 PSI and see if it holds. If it doesn't, then that hubs seals are bad and need replacing.

If, in the end, all of your lines and hubs hold vacuum properly, you are pretty much left with the solenoid itself. Attach your vacuum gauge to the line after the solenoid and have someone switch to 4WD. The solenoid should apply about 14-15 PSI for up to 60 seconds. Then have them switch back to 2WD. The solenoid should apply about 7 PSI for about 60 seconds. If neither of these happens then your solenoid is likely bad.

You may want to check the center pin of the solenoid wiring connector for power.

i'm getting "internal control module keep alive memory?" for fault p0603. which i think has nothing to do with using coolant. i assume you're finding no leaks, so it's leaking somewhere you can't see. does it smell of antifreeze in the interior? is the carpet wet? the heater core might be leaking into the interior. there could be a slow leak on the top of the engine and it's boiling away before it has a chance to pool. fill your reservoir fully. let the engine get hot. inspect for steam in the engine compartment.

There are 2 different versions of fuel pumps on these trucks. There is a frame mounted one just under drivers side up in framerail right behind the engine. If it is not there then it is in tank and you will need to drop your tank. 2 straps hold it in. Make sure you know how much fuel is in and and that you are aware that it m ay be heavy. Once out remove the twist ring holding it on by twisting it counterclockwise. it will pop off. You may need to tap it with a hammer and a screw driver. Once removed reach down inside. There are 2 clips holding it into a plastic housing. go to the bottom side of the clips and pull up carefully. too much and you can break them. You will feel it pop loose. then you can remove the pump and back together you go.

Diesel engines do not have a firing order. They run off of compression and not spark.

on the starter

The flasher does not stop the brake lights from working. Check # 18 fuse in fusebox under lower left side of dash. if it's ok, the brake light switch, on the brake pedal arm is next. light green wire with red stripe is hot if fuse 18 is ok. Depress brake pedal, light green with no stripe should have power. if not, replace brake light switch. If light green wire has power with pedal depressed, combination switch under the steering is next. Remove the cover from around the combo switch {under the steering wheel}. depress brake pedal, light green wire should have power. If it does, pedal still depressed, orange with light blue wire & wire with light green & orange should have power. Those 2 wires are brake & rear turn signal wires. { The turn signal switch should be in the middle, not right position or left. while checking for power in the last 2 wires. Good Luck drvolt.

This can be caused by a worn transfer case drive chain.

Neutral safety switch is located on left side of transmission. Don't know the color of the wires . Google it.