20 Most Recent 1989 Pontiac Sunbird - Page 6 Questions & Answers

The only thing I can think of is that the problem is in the ECM or the PROM chip in the ECM. The ECM controls the injector pulse width, (on-time), on start up it is turning on the injectors on too long. I can't think of anything else that would cause your problem. I worked on a Cavalier that would always idle at 2000 RPMs, tried a new IAC valve, still did it, had to replace the ECM. I thought of the throttle position sensor, but I think if that was bad, it would idle high anytime in park or neutral, and would normally set a code.

both flashers are driver side, under dash, above kick panel, mounted in top of convenience panel. You could probably swap them to get the turns to work until you buy a new one.

Hi!!
Defective fuel pump, it happens sometimes, remove pump and replace it before you warranty runs out. It will eventually fail.
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Your ignition timing is controlled by the computer and cannot be set. Is there a problem we can help you with?

Should be located on the timing cover and also on the crank. Hope this helps.

1. Get yourself a paperclip and follow the instructions at the bottom of this post to retrieve stored codes from the PCM.
2. Call a dealer and ask their service department what the code means, or google it.
   
3. If you're handy and can DIY some things, locate, remove, and clean the Idle control valve and it's passages. Use carb cleaner and some pipe cleaning brushes to remove the gunk buildup. Have someone cycle the key on/off a few times while spraying the carb cleaner into the passages of the valve itself, with the power connected to it, but do not crank or start the engine. This will actuate the solenoid, and allow the carb cleaner to flush out the passages of the valve itself.
   

SOUNDS LIKE U HAVE NO INJECTOR PULSE WHICH IS THE GROUND SENT FROM THE ECM WHICH IS SIGNALED THROUGH YOUR IGNITION MODULE. U NEED TO GET A NOID LAMP. IT CHECKS FOR PULSEWIDTH.(LIGHTS UP IF U HAVE A HOT AND GROUND WHILE U ARE CRANKING HE ENGINE. IF IT LIGHTS WHILE U ARE CRANKING AND NO FUEL THEN THE INJECTOR IS DEFECTIVE. IF IT DOESNT THEN THE ECM IS BAD OR IGNITION MODULE IS

"The vehicle is not responding" comes out when the voltage is too low. If you have replaced the battery and the alternator and still get it then you have short in the wiring.  The only way to find it is to disconnect all major consumers (starter, lights and ECM) and check the wiring one wire at a time till you find the short one.

the negative should go on one of the mounting bolts

Under hood, driver side, rear engine area, mounted on upper firewall and looks like this;


I'm assuming the radiator fan is not working and the fan switch on the radiator is ok. If not, it will look like this;

The surging can be caused by dirty spark plugs, bad fuel or a dirty fuel filter which will not cause any codes to be collected by the engines computer

I would go with the one under the hood because the owners manual is generic for all models for that year while the one under the hood is for your model.

it's a job! but you can do it if you do it right.
take the cv-axle out first
disconnect all cables, electrical and hydraulic lines to the transmission
lose all bolts which connect to engine
remove transmission mounts
make sure you have the engine supported
( some time you have to lower the sub frame for clearance )
you may have to use a pry bar to separate the transmission from the engine. make sure you have a jack under the transmission too.

You need to bleed the brakes and get all of the air out of the system.

Check to see if there is power to the fuse,it may not be blown,but there may not be power to the fuse.Then if there is power at the fuse,check the flasher to see if there is power to the flasher with the key on,and the turn signal engaged,left or right,doesn`t matter.If there is not power to the flasher,then the turn signal is most likely bad.

It would not run good at all if it was the timing belt. In fact it probably wouldn't even start at all. It sounds more like loose bolts on the starter or the tension pully that keeps the serpentine belt tight. That one has to be replaced.

Probably bad ground connections, clean & recheck headlights!

Sounds like you and others are unsure of the source of the noise and until you have verification I would not be pulling the water pump off and hoping that is the problem. If it is a bearing noise it could be a pulley bearing elsewhere.

Make sure you have identified the problem before doing any work. Your car won't be the first that has developed the noise so check with a shop that works on this model vehicle and is familiar with their issues.

If it is the water pump that is faulty, clearly your best bet is to purchase a factory workshop manual for the car and use this to guide you through the process. You can then assess after reviewing the manual if this is something you would be comfortable doing yourself.