Top 20 1995 Pontiac Bonneville Questions & Answers

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Do you have a security light lit on the insturment cluster ? Check engine light etc.... Could be a lot of thing's , testing should be done . Fuel pressure testing using a fuel pressure gauge , before replacing parts . If do not know this , do yourself a favor , take it to a qualified repair shop . Would cost you less in the long run.

Did you check for voltage at the fuses with key on? Use a test light, two fuses. Hope you can read diagram? trying to get everything I could in one diagram, a little small. Some makes and models, if you unplug coolant temp sensor, the fans will run all the time, it's a default feature. Not sure about your vehicle, you can try it?

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Most likely a harness problem,for injectors and or ecm computer.

Could be crank sensor , ignition module and i wouldn't rule out the PCM . But before you start replacing parts test these componets . If you don't have diagnostic skills or a lab scope i suggest you take to a qualified repair shop that does . Hall effect cam crank sensor operation and testing Part 1 an SD Premium... Hall effect cam crank sensor operation and testing Part 2 an SD Premium...

Power door lock relay is under drivers seat, keyless entry relay is in passenger side relay center behind right side of dash.

Odds are the engine and/or oil pump is wearing out. A weak pump can cause low oil pressure, as can worn engine bearings. The oil is pumped thru the crank bearings, then up to the top of the cyl heads. The pressure switch is midway up the block. 10w30 oil is made to be used between 0 degrees and 100 degrees. As the temp goes up the oil is supposed to get thicker, but only so much. So as the engine warms up the oil gets thinner and naturally looses some pressure. Thinner oil will "leak" thru worn engine parts. You may luck out and have the pump replaced and fix the problem, but if it has more than 125,000 miles on the engine, the bearings are probably failing too.

Put a wire directly to the hood latch, Make it long enough hang down, easy to grab and pull.

check the "courtesy/park light" fuse

Did the handle break or the base? Typically the screws get loose and they won't tighten properly. That means you have to weld up the holes and redrill for new screws or weld nuts in for extra strength.

If you mean the radiator fan, the relay should be in the relay box in the engine compartment. Check your owners manual for details. The relay is grounded by the engine computer when the fan is needed.

Has the battery been tested? Are the battery cables clean and not corroded?

There is a special tool called a lifter puller. It has 2 tangs on the bottom of the tool and when the handle is squeezed it grasps the lifter. Very helpful when lifter bores are gummed up to remove stubborn lifters.May be able to get from Napa

If you mean the radiator fan, the relay should be in the relay box in the engine compartment. Check your owners manual for details. The relay is grounded by the engine computer when the fan is needed.

Start by checking the battery if not that check the starter

some hmbl' s (high mount brake light) have screws in the bottom some have a accessable socket in the trunk (lay on your back and side into the trunk and look up) if you see little plastic feet get into and grab the light usualy pull back to unhook the feetand lift the light enuff to access the socket give that a 1/4 turn to release bulb

The latches are "frozen" because of metal contracting in the latch or latch lubricant physically becoming more viscous or freezing and preventing movement of the latch. You may need to apply a sub-freezing lubricant to prevent them from freezing up in low temperatures. Best put the car into a garage and let the general higher temperature unfreeze the latches.

And the original symptom remains? I hate it when that happens. Now start over and diagnose the problem. Hopefully you didn't fry your new parts.

Try reversing the numbers. Switch them around and see if that works.