20 Most Recent 2005 Chevrolet Blazer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

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Pull the front hubs and look for stripped gears.

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Check the pushrod length, you need to use a micrometer that is long though. Tappet or lifter knock is common with hydraulic lifters. It is annoying but has no real concern for engine damage. You can replace the tappets if you want.

This is an easy fix. There are 2 bolts surrounding the bottom of the assembly ( these are bracket type) and 2 right up top. Remove 3 inner fender well screws t15 if i remember correctly, remove the bumper facia, access bottom 2. Remove 2 from top, comes right out, remove bulbs, (connectors if needed) and replace.
Certified GM tech here.

if it has locking hubs check them.

Are you talking about bypassing the factory amp? What is your reason for wanting to bypass it?

First, check to see if your ABS and your TCS fuses are good. A lot of times, if both lights come on, it senses a failure in the braking system. Your vehicle will disable the abs if it finds a problem in the braking system, hence the red brake light/hand brake light coming on in the dash. Get a code scanner that also reads the abs module. You could have a bad wheel sensor, which is tied to your TCS and your ABS system. Either that, or you ABS module could be bad.

Thermostat/blazer forum

indicates a EVAP venting problem have the fault codes read to determine the exact reason for the problem

Needle nose vice grips. They also make sockets for stripped head bolts. Like this - Craftsman BOLT OUT Damaged Rounded Stripped Nut Bolt Remover Sockets USA...

You probably have a clog in fuel line. Could unhook line where the fuel filter is again and let fuel drain out, find your fuel pressure port on fuel rail. If u have pressure when u push pin in, fuel should blast out

How to identify and repair leaking fuel pressure regulator GM CPI system...

Don't replace anything unless you need to. Disconnect the neg battery cable...
Find and Remove the IAC valve and the MAF sensor and clean both with MAF cleaner...pay particular attention to the IAC...spray it liberally and wipe it in a downward motion trying not to turn the pintle..remove as much carbon as you can.

Let the parts dry, then replace them. Reconnect the battery leads...start the vehicle without any accessories running...leave for 10 minutes...go for a drive for another 10-15 minutes so the idle can readjust...all done..cheers
Note, all this will only take about 15-20 minutes if you have the tools...you will need to remove torque screws, i think T15? ....and a wrench for the battery..and you will save about $300.. cheers

First, see if the radiator fans are running properly and the water pump belt is on correctly and there's no play in the water pump pulley. Check the front of the radiator fins for clogging. Then check the operation of the thermostat. If those check out, perform a cooling system pressure test on the system and the radiator cap.

Hello Dennis, Is this only occurring at Idle? In other words, if at speed, you turn on fan ac controls and it runs fine (until you return to idle such as at a stop light)? If so, then I would suspect the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. When you turn on the fan control and the compressor kicks in, the IAC circuit is supposed to maintain the engine idle. I recommend checking the IAC valve first, then let us know your findings.

This sounds like a transmission problem. The interlock only prevents the shifter from moving, but has no impact on actual transmission operation. That is, the interlock has nothing to do with the trucks ability to coast backwards. Our beloved Dodges are notorious for transmission failures. I recommend having it checked by a transmission professional.

Try this video and see if it helps: Chevy 4 3 V6 How to Set Distributor timing

A toggle switch will only work on a fresh cable, which is wired directly to the alternator or the battery. If you put a toggle switch on the existing electric fan wire, you will not be able to turn it on as long as the engine management does not send you current.