20 Most Recent 1990 Chevrolet Corvette - Page 8 Questions & Answers

it's not the issue with starter relay it' problem with the starter motor it need's to be serviced the many thing's involved regarding your starting problem
it is better you show it to nearest Chevrolet authorized service station they will help you out instead of making your self in trouble full situtation
till the next time siddhanth saying bye for now for more queries do feel free ask any problem related to automobile field & we will be happy to help you any time so keep driving safe & happy motoring

Follw the brake lines

Replace the harmonic balancer so a mechanic can line it up correctly. If you take it to an expert (I know one here in Southern California) he should be able to set the timing by trial and error

Here is a replacement:
http://www2.partstrain.com/store/details/Chevrolet/Corvette/Replacement/Engine_Harmonic_Balancer/1990/Base/8_Cyl_5-dot-7L/C312303.html

Your timing belt/ chain is stretched and is retarding and advancing due to the slack in the timing gears. Your only venue is to have it changed.Thank you, Dana

To lower the top. 1) open the drivers door and under the fiberglass cover there is a lever that will release the two pins that hold the rear cover down. 2) lift up the rear window part of top and reach under again to press button that will release fiberglass cover. ( there is also a button on the passenger door which is visible with the door open.) this is a electric relay switch which will produce a clicking sound and top will come up. 3) release the two levers on the front of the cover by pulling toward you. 4) fold cover in compartment and fold levers back to folded position.

i know it sounds old school but try tapping the starter kinda hard and then try starting it sometimes they get to hot and freeze up

Code 34 has to do with your MAP sensor I believe from what I am reading. I don't know a lot about corvettes but it says MAP sensor voltage low. The C12 code I see is a normal code set dealing with no reference pulses being received by control module. In other words with the engine not running. It has to do with No RPM reference pulse.

Hi,

That might be one of the reasons.A bad tps would cause a "fish bite"in the transmission from the torque convertor cycling.Inspect the water pump weap hole and see if its shows signs of leakage.

A guide How to set would be :-

http://www.automedia.com/Throttle_Position_Sensor_Adjustment/ccr20040701ts/1

http://www.suzukisv1000.com/faq/tps.htm

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Always try the fuses first.

usually the wires between the door jamb break from wear ( use ) ....otherwise go through trunk if accessible or you can have a locksmith open it if you lost the key

bad vacuum lines or need replacement fuel filter could even be a leaky line faulty fuel sending unit or check air filter ..start there first

there is an adjustment turnbuckle usually directly in the middle of the vehicle tighten this up to remove the slack its fairly easy and plainly visible on drivers side

fuel pump,or air flow meter

Well it sounds like you've started to do your "due diligence", but there are several things left out. Your problem could be many things. Something as minor as a vacuum hose left off, loose, or in the wrong place. And just because you changed the plugs and wires, don't mean you fixed your problem. Open your hood at night and see if you have any sparks "dancing" around. Another way to check this is to open your hood and spray a soapy water solution on your plug wires and look for sparks jumping around. If so replace your wires. You didn't mention what type of wires and plugs you used. I would reccommend NKG platnum plugs and a Bosch wire. I know this from experience,(the hard way teacher). It could even be the gas you are burning. I've owned a lot of Vettes, and I am the kind of guy who believes they should be driven. If not it's like having a beatiful wife and never taking her to bed.I know a lot of people who only drive them "once in awhile". Sitting in thier garage can cause many fuel problems, condensation, sludge in the carb, or filters etc. This can all lead to the problem you are describing.
Low speed miss- usually plugs
High speed miss- usually wires or valves
intermitten miss, fuel or electrical.
I hope I gave you some places to look to find your problem.

All I can do is suggest as my 'Vette's are older.

If my research is correct, I did find that the decklid latch mechanism is released by a cable. The cable probably has stuck in the cable sheath, due to years of neglect, (Failure to periodically lube the cable. Hint/hint)

You need to manually release the decklid mechanism.
Now bear with me, as again, my 'Vette's are older, ('70 and '76), and their seats tilt forward.

If you can tilt the passenger seat forward, perhaps you can get in there and lube this cable through it's sheath. (Use penetrating oil at first. I would then remove the cable, and clean it, then lube it, after getting the decklid open. Lube? White Lithium in a spray can)

Then try to pull the latch mechanism in the direction the cable would pull it, to release it.
(The cable may be broken?)

Yes! Whoever does this feat of magic, of getting to that decklid mechanism, will look like a contortionist! Hit the jacuzzi afterwards! lol!

Yeah, you should sell me the car. REALLLL CHEAP!!! No, seriously. I had a simular problem, and it turned out to be cheap plugs and wires. I would use NKG platnum plugs, and a Bosch wire. It sounds like your wires are shorting out. Open your hood at night and see. Or spray a real soapy solution on your wires during the day and watch for sparks "dancing around"
I also had a simular problem on time where the car ran fine as long as I didn't touch the gas. That turned out to be a broken or frayed wire coming out of the ignition control modual that I couldn'r see until the vacuum advance kicked in.

I had the same problem. Turns out,( and I didn't believe it when I was told) but, my problem turned out to be cheap (inferiour) plugs and wired. I was reccomended to use NKG plugs and Borg-Warner wires.