1993 Chevrolet Astro - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Sounds to me like the ole lousy crimp connector on the end of a wire. When cold the crimp is good enough to work, but as it warms the crimp looses its grip a tad and things start to go down hill. Find feeds to fuse box and solder any wire crimps to get a good connection. Had this happen on a new chevy starter, same complaint. good luck

bad distribuitor cap and rotor trust me on this one

Spray some carburetor cleaner into the engine an see if it starts ! I don't think 58 psi fuel pressure is enought ! Has to be above 60 psi .415-455 kPa (60-66 psi).

Every small block chevy has a firing order of 18436572 1357 on driver side 2468 on passenger side

For initial prime, you have to check fuel pump relay and wiring circuits. The control/coil side of relay gets voltage from pcm, green wire with white tracer. The ground for control side of relay, should be a chassis ground. Voltage for load side of relay is fuse protected. This vehicle has an oil pressure switch in fuel pump circuit, just a redundant power supply to the fuel pump. Even w/o the relay the vehicle should start and run, once the oil pressure builds up and that switch closes, the fuel pump will get voltage. There won't be any initial prime w/o the relay.

Most GM vehicles locate it behind the glove box.

Are you talking about throttle position sensor? What is tsp? I haven't had my morning coffee yet.

Check it for some error code

are you sure the coil is bad and not a problem with the module in the distributor,you could try unplugging the tan wire with black stripe, connector near distributor and see if it starts, in 26 years ive seen alot more module failures than coil failures.

moved to chebby, not suzuki

have mass airflow sensor cked.

should work look at both motors and see if the plugs are alike

What has happened is that the link rod connector, a plastic piece, has broken, and the rod is indeed flopping around in there. These are always fun, as they never break after the door is already open; it is always the act of opening the door which breaks them. The parts are cheap, less than $5, but getting to them...not so great. To further assist you, I need to know which rear-door configuration your van has. Please respond if you still have the vehicle and the problem.

Sound like a cracked distributor cap. Happened to me a couple years ago in my 4.3L Jimmy. Replace the cap and button.

Does it blow if the compressor is unplugged ?

You removed the relay and put back in, and it can start? It could be a relay going bad or a wiring terminal connection where the relay plugs in. I would try a new relay and see if problem goes away. Clean the terminals with an electronic cleaner spray, where the relay plugs in.

chk in line fuel filter for obstruction, also could be a lot of sediment in the tank clogging up the filter. Hope this helps you resolve your problem.

That is a very involved answer. First I would disconnect the fuel pump and apply 12v directly to the wires to the fuel pump to rule out whether or not it is toasted. If it runs when you supply power to it, you'll need to isolate which wires are grounding to blow the fuse. Think about recent work done on the van as this may give you a clue where to start. Good Luck!

Try replacing the oxygen sensor on the top end of the exhaust.Or it can also be the maf air flow gauge,it needs cleaning.A loose ground wire or loose sensor wire can also be a problem.

try contact breakers for pitting or a dud condenser.