20 Most Recent 1995 Chevrolet Astro - Page 6 Questions & Answers

If the window goes up and down when the motor is still good, chances are your wiring is not at fault. Check the window regulator for binding or stiffness. It may be all that is required is to lubricate the regulator.

sounds like you have a broken sun shell inside of the transmission, you will have to have the transmission removed, and repaired, or replaced unfortunately. the sun shell is a common failure in these and has been redesigned

Your going to have to trace the wiring under that dash to those circuits and locate the one that is actually grounded incorrectly. Now, the most likely culprit is the light it self, normally an orange thicker wire that connects to the back of the lighter socket. Trace it back as far as you can and cut it and if that is the problem you know where to search. If you have a drain from that circuit then one of the positive wires is grounding which kind of makes it a little easier to locate if you have a multimeter. You can test for continuity between the positive wires and a ground to locate the one that is grounded improperly. Make sure you leave that fuse out when you do this so there is no power in the circuit.

If you have the owners manual look under (fuses) air conditioner..there is a small fuse in your fuse block..There is also a relay fuse under the hood..Good Luck i hope you find the problem

Have you read any of the codes

before condemning the rear check the u joints first usually the most common problem but if rear is determined to need replacement than 1-replacement of gears by u unless u have the proper tools than that will be hard and can be more costly in long run if installed improperly 2-junkyard unit cheap usualy under 100 and can be installed by u with help from a friend 3- have rebuilt at a shop usually cost about 800 and up 4- if u live by a school or coledge or a school that has auto training these places usually charge a fee for the lift around 50 and dont charge for labor u buy the parts or replacement unit and they do the work [learning experience ]

this sometimes can be caused by a dirty or broken MAF sensor try cleaning it with MAF cleaner. good luck

could be your mass airflow sensor or an idling sensor any check engine lights on?

sounds like your break booster is bad

first off you need to disconect the battery and then jack up the van..remember to set the parking brake and if possible use jack stands..now when you go under the van the starter will be on the passenger side below the exhaust manifold.there is 2- 9 1/16 bolts securing it to the motor remove these and slowly let it down to better access the wires on the silinoid disconect the silonoid wires take the starter down and then reverse the prosses

I would p/u a rebuilt unit at the local parts store rather than trying to rebuild it.

Changing the pump is pretty straightforward, not too cramped. You will need a pulley puller and you will need to bleed the system after install. Don't forget to change the belt.

Tip: if you register @ autozone.com, they offer step by step remove/replace instructions on most common part including the power steering pump for your Astro.

Hope this helps.

see inner side of wheels are they wet thats where the leak is if not see under the car

Blower Motor Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Remove the coolant recovery and windshield washer fluid reservoir assembly.
2. Disconnect the blower motor electrical connector.
3. Remove the 2 screws that retain the acoustic cover in the blower motor area.
4. Cut the acoustic cover between the 5 clip lands.
5. Retain the piece of the acoustic cover for reassembly.
6. Remove the cooling tube from the motor.
7. Remove the screws that retain the blower motor to the case.
8. Remove the blower motor from the case.
9. Inspect the flange of the blower motor for damage or distortion. Damage or distortion will cause an air leak.
10. Repair the flange as necessary.
11. Inspect the blower fan for damage and distortion.
12. Repair or replace the blower fan as necessary.

To Install:

1. Installation is the reverse of removal.

the front sensor or "sensor one " is located on the drivers side in the exhaust Y-pipe, sensor two is located near the catalytic converter

They are the sensors that are in the exhaust. I believe that there are three in this van. Depending on what engine it has. They are the only sensors in the exhaust.

Try this tips:
1. Check the battery voltage at the battery with the digital volt/ohm meter. Set the meter to "Volts D/C" and touch the black meter lead to the negative battery post and the red meter lead to the positive post. A fully charged battery will measure 12.7 volts or more. A measurement of 12.5 volts is considered discharged, and the battery should be charged before any further testing. Any measurement below 11 volts indicates a severely discharged battery--the battery is most likely damaged and should be replaced. If the battery measures above 12.7 volts, proceed to the next step.

2. Check the starter for battery voltage by touching the red (positive) meter lead to the battery cable terminal on the back of the starter and the black (negative) lead to the chassis. The voltage reading should be approximately the same as the measurement at the battery. If the reading is lower than battery voltage, check for bad connections at the cables on the battery and the starter or ground cable.

Check for ignition switch signal at the purple wire on the back of the starter. When the key is turned to the "Start" position this wire should measure battery voltage. If the reading is less than battery voltage, or zero volts, check the fusible links (orange wires) on the back of the starter. If the fusible links are intact and not burned or broken, replace the ignition switch. If battery voltage is present at the purple wire, and the starter doesn't turn, replace the starter. If the voltage measurements at the starter are correct, and the starter cranks the engine over when the key is turned to the start position, proceed to the next step.

3. Remove the air duct attached to the throttle body, and spray a liberal amount of the carburetor spray into the throttle body. Replace the hose, and try to start the engine. If the engine starts, the fuel pump is not supplying fuel or the ignition module is not pulsing the injectors. Check the fuel pump fuse located in the under-hood fuse block. If it is good, check for power at the fuel pump electrical connector located near the rear of the fuel tank on the driver's side of the van. In the Chevy Astro van, power is supplied to the fuel pump by the the gray wire on the electrical connector when the engine is being cranked. If power is supplied, hitting the fuel tank with the flat side of a hammer while someone else is turning the ignition key to start will sometimes bump the fuel pump enough to allow it to start. If the fuel pump checks good, proceed to the next step.

4. Check for spark. Disconnect the coil wire at the ignition coil, and try to start the engine. If no spark occurs, replace the coil and ignition module. If a strong spark occurs, plug the wire back in, and remove a spark plug wire from a spark plug and repeat the test. If a spark is not present, replace the spark plug wires, and distributor cap and rotor.


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