20 Most Recent 1995 Chevrolet Lumina - Page 9 Questions & Answers

honestly, sounds like you should go to basics-check compression first, clean the throttle body , check fuel pump pressure at the rail on top of the engine-if you have any kind of check engine light, you need to get the code pulled, you have an OBDI system, so it is not as easy to diagnose-another basic is having good electrical power-battery and alternator in good condition.

1.put a piece of wood under the rear tire, <will prevent car from rolling back> 2.open the hood remove the cap on the master cylinder if low on oil do not refill, low fluid is a indication or worn out brakes since its a sealed system unless there is a leak you should never have to replace fluid.3.jack up front end either as a whole or one side at a time use a jack stand under the frame rail, lower car onto jack stand.4. pull the wheel off.5 loosen the caliper bolts normally this is a large hex boltremove calipers remove pads look at old pads for un even wear or burnsor cracks indication for bad calipers should be even wear on both padscheck the rotor which is what the wheel bolts too, look for blue-ing or small cracks grooves etc if you find any replace the caliper or have them turned at a machine shop average price in my state 25 dollars a wheel some times and some places are cheaper to buy new ones get a can of brake cleaner at a parts store you'll need to use specific cleaners other wise there might be a residue and you won't stop,6 get a rag and large pair of channel locks put rag over piston in caliper slowly compress with the master cylinder cap off this should be easyyou do not need to bleed brakes that's only when you crack open a Zerk fitting and we haven't done that here, once piston is compressed all the way into the caliper your ready for new pads, first go wash your hands grease is a brake system worst nightmare most disk brakes come with a little tube of glue called anti chatter glue this is applied to the back of the pads let that sit a minute to set then install the new pads carefully put caliper back onto rotor and re bolt down do a visual check to make sure you did not disconnect anything else.then put the wheel back on that side is done do the same for the other wheel. with all that said and done now you know how to change the brakes on every car with disk brakes they are all the same type system the only thing that varies is to bolts holding the calipers

heater matrix blocked or temp switch faulty

it has a thief ignition lock. didyou buy a new one if so it needs to be regramed by dealership . if it is a used one then you need to change the thief box. I have a 1996 montw carlo and had the same problem

Possible turn signal switch. Mine went out with the same problem I could jiggle it to get the brake lights to work.

When your refrigerant is to low the compressor won't run. Disconnect wires running to compressor & jump over with a piece or wire. The compressor should come on and take the refrigerant. After adding a can I would remove the jumper wire & reconnect the wire to thecompressor to ensure that is the problem. Be carful and don't overfill.

Check vacumn line that runs from round accumilator under driver fender to check valve before it runs through fire wall. Runs under fender under battery . could be check valve or broken line. Had same problem it was broken line

change the air p0llin filter under the dash,this will solve the problem.adrian

Which solenoid are you refering to? Starter or transmission?

On some 1995 OBD 1 models with a 12-pin Data Link Connector, trouble codes can be accessed by connecting terminal B to terminal A with a jumper wire. With the key in on position, the codes can be read by watching the "service engine soon" light. HOWEVER, some models have a 16-pin DLC and you have to jump terminals 5 and 6 to get the trouble codes to flash.

did u check the fuse. if so must have bad connection in wireing

You may have a defective neutral safety switch. The switch is located on the outside if the transmission case and it is where the cable connects from the shooter inside the car. This covers the no start, the stall is likely due to a dirty throttle valve and idle speed control valve.

Engine stall or RPM fluctuates at idle.

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control.Below is a picture of the switch I mentioned.

could be a bad lifter

The security light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterperates this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. Remember too, the TDM controls the security light. Sometimes you can have ALL the symptoms and no lights. This link explains it pretty well.http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

check for proper coolant level in your recovery tank. if low add to the full line and have the vehicle checked for a coolant leak