Top 10 1996 Chevrolet Blazer Questions & Answers

i would say its in the dash unfortunately you will have to pull it out to inspect.

These trucks have a problem where moisture builds up in the heater box then freezes. When this freezes and you change your heater settings it breaks the shaft for the blend door. If this is what happened you should be able to look under the dash above and to the right of the gas pedal and you will see two vaccuum accuators one of them you should be able to wiggle around the linkage if it is broke. To fix this you need to remove the entire dash to get the heater box out which involves discharging the AC and draining the coolant because the heater core and evaporator come out. Please rate.

there is a orange wire on the seat connector. follow it under the floor mat just under where you put your feet down . that gets corroded and breaks loose. fixed mine twice in 10 years and still working

I am tired of people getting the run around on these engines, and the "Like." This post will be repeatedly posted threw out the world wide web until It ranks number 1 in the google search list when a user googles 4.3 dies, or rough idles etc... For me, "There is absolutely No information on this when the problem occurred for me!." For example, We would not search for "the year the valve covers changed on vortecs" when we keep getting thin ones from a vortec thrown at use. As the Idiots "Humans" we are we would simply search for , "Flat valve cover gasket." In return we would get nowhere.

After we learn the problem, "After" we can then properly search google for the solution. For example the proper term would be, "What year did the vortec valve covers change in?" Walaa. Before hand we was googling for "Flat vortec gaskets."

My point, "You can not google for a solution if you have not already solved the problem."

CHEVY DIES at stop sighns, red lights,Redlights etc. If you are here reading this, Then it is because you have wound up here due to your engine stalling or not starting properly. You googled for a solution and here are some answeres. "Answeres I didn't have" when I had the problem.

These are keywords used to get you here when you googled your problem, Please Excuse them.

Chevy 4.3 vortec Die Died Stop Flud smoke Blue Black White Spark Missfire Code Error 15 43 45 14 OBD Lop Lope Loping Lopeing Surge Surging Surgeing Knock sensor senser light engine problems fault starting heat heating crank crunk run running viberation viberate stall hesitates hesitate fuel filter pump line vacuum vacume oil astro s10 sonoma chevy plug sparkplug distributor rotor button pop cold hot water intake carb EGR valve idle idler cam sputters misses leak hose. when sometimes
will not start
does not start
cant start can't start can not start will not start wont start want start problems starting idle problems.



Some 4.3's have 2 Coolent temperature sensors, Some only have 1. On the engines that contain 2 sensers, One is a Temperature Senser and the other a Temperature Switch.

The Temperature switch Is an open circuit, It closes at a high degree.

The Temperature Senser, It can Advance Timing, De-advance timing, Control your Fuel to Air ratio and much more. 9 Times out of ten if your truck is stalling, its the temperature senser.

Which one is the Senser, which is the Switch? The temperature Switch, Which is the minor of the 2, It has one "Vertical Pin in the center of Plug Housing." It is used only for Plug guidence. The smaller *** close to the center *** is the connector ***. It is where the 1 wire makes contact.

The Temperature Senser, Rather than switch has 2 side by side Vertical Parallel Male Titts. It also has 2 wires.

Some engines Do not have a Temperature Switch, The switch on these are built into a temperature senser, and a switch is not needed.


These are the "Symptoms" of a faulty temperature Senser.
Surging
Loping
Sudden shut offs at stops
Transmissing jerking, Leight or violent.
Missing
Missfiring, Since the senser Does control Timing!
Fluiding, Wrong Fuel to air Ratio, The senser controls that to.

Rings for your Vortec. If you can't find the rings you're lookinf for, Chances are " PERFECT CIRCLE " is the only Brand ring you will be able to find without paying the dealer price. Which Perfect circuit runs around 60 to 70 bucks for the hard to find rings that you thought was impossible to find.

(PVC valve can cause Smoking." And rough idle as well. But loping is mostly due to temp senser.


Vortecs have very few sensors. If any of them go out the BRAIN is "PROGRAMED" to cause a ton of trouble. They are Designed to cause you to spend your money.

Temp Senser, Code 15, Not all BAD temp sensers Shoot a code, Sometimes these Bad sensers Do go under the radar and the error anylizing doesn't work, and give code.

You can not test a Temp senser with an ohm meter, Because at different temps you get a different reading. If you suspect this type of problem make the senser number 1 on your list to replace.

The part is 12 bucks at autozone. $12.00 and you should not pay no more than 35 dollars to have it put on are you are getting ripped off very very very badly, Since that is "More than what its worth" to have it installed.

The vortecs with No temp Switch will have the senser located in the driver or passenger Head. Engines with switch sensers will have the switch on the head, and the senser by the Thermostat duck goose neck, so a hose may have to be removed along with a throttle cable and top breather.

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19 19 49

vin
ECU
30 Block
code

Spider leaks due to lines or regulator, where regulator is not part of the spider and can be removed, regulator can be purches on the internet threw search engines for 50 bucks. Right clean intake equals bad regulator left equals bad supplie lines.

Supplie lines and clamps can be purchease under 3 dollars, hoses made for gasoline. Ports leak into cylinders.

Some engines have abnormal cylinder locations such as 135 or 153 and 642 or 246. Accorrding to the book of the cylinder locations mines are different. This is abnormal but those engines are out there.

If you're having problems with firing, Cross 2 and 6, then 3 and 5. Doing this will reveal the right locations over time. This can leave you scratchign your head when all you're finding is 1 diagram thats not for your engine.

"The Poppet Valves DO NOT leak inside the intake." What Idiot ever started that. They leak inside the HEADS. The Regulator and Supplie lines leak inside the intake. Rarely do you need a entire "Spider."

Caution, Spider lines are Fragile and will break like glass. Do not bend them any.

How to install Supplie line hoses to the spider. Insert the washers First, Then insert the feed lines. DO NOT insert the supplie lines if they contain a washer already on them, They will not fit. You must first Push the washers Inside the spider, Then the feed lines will go into the spider, and as this happens the washers will slide up onto the lines, This is how it is done. User a lube, Gas or PB blaster Oil or whatever.


IF you run into the store, come back out and your engine fails to start, It's probably your Senser if you can't keep it running. If you manage but it stinks, its probably your spiter. You can also Hear gas leaks inside intake. Cap can be removed to see inside intake, Intake shouldn't be too clean which would indicate gas cleaning.

i got a 1996 chev. blazer s-s10 4.3 engine 4x4.problem i got is i got 1st 2nd & overdrive & reverse but no 3rd gear what should i do

The orifice tube should be located inside of the metal AC line from the condenser. The discharge hose (from the compressor) connects to the top on the condenser (inlet). The orifice tube mounts in the bottom of the condenser (outlet to the evaporator). The outlet tube of the condenser has a 45º upward angle. If it is not in that location it will be farther out on the same line where it connects. Here is a diagram that might help.

It's in the underhood fuse relay panel near the battery. the lid is marked to show you which one If you think it's bad you can trade it with the fog light relay as it's the same part.

Any GM vehicle (truck/van/SUV) from 1996 to 2002 will interchange. There were two versions, the LF5 and LF6.

L35 and LF6 SCPI
Major design changes to the 4.3L V6 for the 1996 model year. Like other small block Chevrolet V8s, the 4.3L engine received redesigned heads which had improved airflow and combustion efficiency. These heads are referred to as Vortec heads. Furthermore the 4.3L was upgraded to receive sequential port fuel injection. The fuel system uses six centrally mounted injectors firing into six nylon hoses with poppet valves leading to each intake port. This system was call SCPI (Sequential Central Port Injection). This 4.3L used a two piece manifold, with the upper half manufactured from a composite plastic and the lower half manufactured from cast aluminum.
The engine block was revised with structural reinforcing ribs up front eliminating the two freeze plugs (on the front and back) along with an alloy oil pan (for the S10, Blazer, and Jimmy).
This engine came in two versions, the LF6 rated at 175 hp (130 kW) - 180 hp (130 kW), and the L35 rated at 180 - 200 hp (150 kW). Only the S-series pick-ups used the LF6, while the fullsize trucks, vans and Blazer and Jimmy used the L35 version. The L35 was optional on the S-Series trucks.
Year Horsepower Torque Fuel System Compression Ratio RPO Applications 1996 170 hp (130 kW) @ 4400 rpm 235 lb·ft (319 N·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 LF6 5 1997-2002 175 hp (130 kW) @ 4400 rpm 240 lb·ft (325 N·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 LF6 5 1996-2002 180 hp (130 kW) @ 4400 rpm 240 lb·ft (325 N·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 LF6 6 1996-2002 180 hp (130 kW) @ 4400 rpm 245 lb·ft (332 N·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 L35 5 1996-2002 190 hp (140 kW) @ 4400 rpm 250 lb·ft (339 N·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 L35 3,4,6 1996-2002 200 hp (150 kW) @ 4400 rpm 250 lb·ft (339 N·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 L35 2 1996-1998 200 hp (150 kW) @ 4400 rpm 255 lb·ft (346 N·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 L35 1 1999-2002 200 hp (150 kW) @ 4600 rpm 260 lb·ft (353 N·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 L35 7

Hello kevinurbany,

Below is a diagram of the vacuum hoses.

Regards,
netvan

In my case (1995 S10) it was as simple as the temperature control potentiometer. The pot contacts were crushed, God knows what breaks and shorts happened there. Replaced the pot and all works like a charm.