20 Most Recent 1996 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

More than likely you have a bad speed sensor located at the rear of transmission housing on the drivers side.

intake gasket leaking

TELL ME WHAT KIND OF CODES YOU GET YOUR MIL LIGHT MUST COME ON IF YOU DON;T HAVE A SCANNER TAKE TO AN AUTO STORE MOST OF THEM WILL DO THIS FOR FREE

This uses only one injector known as a spider injector. This then runs to 6 poppit valves that feed the fuel into the cylinders. It is located under the upper portion which is plastic of the intake manifold.You should be able to see a harness that is located at the throttle body.

Pull the vaccuum hose off of the regulator. If wet fuel is present, the regulator diaphram is bad.......replace the regulator.

usually in a relay box under the hood. If you don't see it, get back to me and I'll try to look it up.

Look for a relay/fuse box in the engine compartment

Replace the spray nozzles if plugged first which is common

take off the heads and inspect the cylinders for burnt valves and possible buildup of any kind, replace o-rings and possibly even the head gasket, you will be able to tell if its needed when you get there, throw it back together after doing all that and if its still running rough check your timing chain/belt, distributor, and possibly even the fuel injector heads

it would be something to do without wire harness housings, make sure all wire clusters are waterproofed, wrapped in tape or covered in plastic one or the other, make sure the contacts on your starts are covered up and check for any type of corrosion on all the contacts including spark plugs and distributor, tell me how everything works after doing that and i will help you from there

It has to be the module in the distributor or the bolts are corroded. Just change the module and sand off where it seats.

The fuse is blowing because you have a short in the one of the power wires that go to the trans.You need to chase the power wire for the trans and find where it is rubbing on metal or to a ground wire.Should be the pink 1020 wire that goes from the connector at the drivers side of the trans to the fuse box.Hope this helps.Let me know what you found and good luck.

Before you due the following procedure , make sure you have NO SES light on , located on your instrument panel . Service Engine Soon light or Check Engine light is what I'm talking about . If the light is on , have someone obtain the codes from the EC M. memory and correct whatever is causing the codes to be displayed . Also, make sure the codes are cleared after the repairs are done or the computer will keep the EEC system in limp mode or what is called "open loop". We want the system to be in "closed loop" which is allowing the computer to control the fuel delivery as it does when everything is working correctly . Then, drive the truck and see if the noise is still there . If it's not there anymore , great !!!! Problem solved. But, if it is still there, making the hammering noise, then proceed to the following steps .

Drive your truck until it gets real close to "E" on your fuel gauge . Then , do the dirty deed , LOL..by purchasing $10.00 worth of the highest grade fuel at the pump, whatever it is . You want the highest octane rating selection and it will be the most expensive selection . Drive the truck as you would normally giving the high octane fuel time to mix with what little fuel was still in the tank when you added the high grade fuel . Personally , I would reset and drive at least 50 miles on my odometer "TRIP" feature to allow plenty of time for the high grade fuel to work its way completely into the entire fuel system and engine . Then I would listen to my engine to see if the noise has either changed considerably for the better , or perhaps completely disappeared . If either of these occurs, change the spark plugs to a cooler range as detonation is probably the source of your noise.

get a free pic and diagram with firing order at your local auto parts store

drive 5mph faster than the speed limit or replace the speedometer.

It sounds like it is the 4WD engagement actuator on the front axle. I think that year had a confined gas and when a heater element heats the gas (4WD selected) the gas expands and actuates a piston and engages the front axle. I think later years went to an all electric actuator. You can probably read more about it on the net. I know that some aftermarket manual lockup devices were made for these vehicles. I would suspect that. I have no idea what a new one costs. I don't think they are terribly expensive. You may want to try and verify before you buy one, but that would be my guess.

Look at the plugs, if they looked hot and cooked then the misfire is unlikely to be electrical. If they look OK check out the Cam sensor connections on the edge of the flywheel housing. If the plugs are cooked it could be a duff EGR valve or, because you have no code, a clogged exhaust feed pipe to it. The absence of the introduction of a measured amount of exhaust gas to the mix would give rise to systemic overheating of the ignition temperatures and this in turn can lead to multiple fire events

see if your fuel pump is geting power to it stick your ear in gas filler take off cap an have someone turn key thats first your fuel pump relay thats on the fire wall in the engine compartment might be no good thats what turns on pump its on the left side of fire wall with a black cover over it