20 Most Recent 1996 Chevrolet Express - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Well throwing parts at it usually doesn't work - 300 is the most annoying since it's a multi misfire not designed to a specific problem - misfire can be ignition - fuel - exhaust-or mechanical problem you need to check and test components I.E. Crank sensor-fuel delivery-valve lash-cat converter etc anything basically can cause misfire not just simple tune up

You didn't take it to a good enough mechanic . Backup Lamps The B/U LP 20 A fuse in the underhood fuse block supplies battery positive voltage to the normally open park neutral position (PNP) switch. When driver places the gear selector lever is in the REVERSE position, the switch closes and the voltage is from the switch to the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM signals the BCM on the class II serial data circuits that the backup lamps are requested. The BCM supplies voltage on the backup lamp supply voltage circuit to the backup lamps and to the automatic day/night mirror. The backup lamps are grounded at G401. Voltage for the backup lamp supply voltage, without RPO YF7 the courtesy lamp supply voltage, and with RPO YF7 the courtesy lamp high control circuits is from the TBC 2 fuse 18 in the underhood fuse block directly through the BCM to these circuits. Backup Lamps Inoperative Step Action Yes No Schematic Reference: Exterior Lights Schematics Connector End View Reference: Lighting Systems Connector End Views or Data Communication Connector End Views 1 Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle? Go to Step 2 Go to Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle 2 Verify that the backup lamps are inoperative. Do the backup lamps operate normally? YES - Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections NO - Go to Step 3 3 Is only one backup lamp inoperative? YES - Go to Step 5 NO - Go to Step 4 4 Use the scan tool to check if there are any codes set in the current or history Powertrain DTC Information. Are any codes present? Go to Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle Go to Step 6 5 Test the backup lamp supply voltage and ground circuits for an open or high resistance. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs. Did you find and correct a condition? Go to Step 10 Go to Step 8 6 Test the backup lamp supply voltage circuit for the following: • An open • A high resistance • A short to ground Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs. Did you find and correct a condition? Go to Step 10 Go to Step 7 7 Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the body control module (BCM). Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs. Did you find and correct the condition? Go to Step 10 Go to Step 9 8 Replace the inoperative backup lamp bulb. Refer to Backup Lamp Bulb Replacement . Did you complete the replacement? Go to Step 10 -- 9 Replace the BCM. Refer to Control Module References for replacement, setup, and programming. Did you complete the replacement? Go to Step 10 -- 10 Operate the system in order to verify the repair. Did you correct the condition? System OK Go to Step 3

no it wiil be normal righty tighty lefty loosey.

Trace wire and voltage back to switch point and restore with new switch point or new power source.

Behind the trim panel on the right or left side in the rear of the vehicle is the rear HVAC - heater , ventilation an A/C unit . The blower motor could be bad or the controller or the blower motor resistor . Doesn't work at any speed ? Your best bet mite be to have a qualified repair shop check it out .

Fuel Pump Relay is a large Hi-Amp Device most likely mounted on the fire-wall under the hood......Also check the Main Fuse Box mounted on the fenderwell close to the Battery.....Fuse and Relay identification should be printed inside the Fuse Box cover........

Here is a post that answers both questions. http://www.fixya.com/cars/t13493096-remove_2001_chevy_van_fuel_tank

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t13493096-remove_2001_chevy_van_fuel_tank

The solenoid on the top of the starter is stuck or the drive is stuck in the ring gear. Do this remove the starter and see why the drive is stuck out in the engaged position. if the drive moved Back as you loosen the starter reinstall it and this time keep the drive as far away from the flywheel as you can then tighten. I hope this helps. Take care. If you have more questions for me use testimonial and it will show up in my email.

DTC P0054 for HO2S bank 1 sensor 2 DTC P0141 for HO2S bank 1 sensor 2 DTC P0335 Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Circuit

Temp door actuator problem , maybe . Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop.

hi, check the pulse on the injectors, fuel press. goes up to them, then the pulse to open the inj. is needed. inmobiliser can be set to kill any signal.

I used to visit this website a no. of times for the repair of my cars but I think they have manual or you could directly email to them regarding it. Here's the link https://big-manuals.com

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Most current automatic transmissions will be put into a "limp" mode if the electronics detect a fault in the transmission. That is, the transmission will go into one gear (usually second or third depending on how many speed ranges the transmission has) and allow you to drive it slowly to a service department or transmission shop. The intent is to prevent further damage by continuing to drive with the problem. It's possible the problem is relatively minor and inexpensive to repair, but continuing to drive it will almost certainly cause more damage (and be more expensive) to repair.

You should go to www.reliable-store.com they have got books on every vehicle and also how to service/repair it, parts info, fuse box, gear box, wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, fuse diagrams, error codes, etc everything

If you can rap the fuel tank on the bottom and the car starts, it's almost a guarantee that it's your fuel pump. You have to get it replaced. Your luck at the little rapping trick runs out after awhile.

seems like the multi-function switch is failing easy to replace and fairly common