20 Most Recent 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe - Page 9 Questions & Answers

this could be from a number of things, such as the rear end, drive shaft,transmission,u-joints,worn front end parts,out of balance tire/worn tire sorry could not narrow it down.

might be the RETURN line back to tank, most overlooked fuel line in the world, sends unburnt fuel & FUMES back to tank & or engine, recycled fuel. these lines rust, rot, subject to salt corrosion, etc., OR, vapor leaks from the evaporativeemissions control system (charcoal canister filter clogged) check condition of all hoses (vacuum) and fuel ...... or your main fuel line is leaking you just can't see it without a complete, thorough inspection !!!!! is fuel fliter leaking @ filter? connections ......

one of two reasons:1- the part of the shaft which comes in contact with the lip of the seal has a groove in it2- there is a brass bushing behind the seal in the tail of the trans which is meant to hold the shaft steady; if it is worn, then the shaft is moving out of range of the seals' ability to remain in contact with it.

You need to be more specific with your question.

You do not have any rear daytime running lights.Running lights just for the front, no rear or dash light

What is the problem?

egr vac

found this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGaO8N6d0jI

Check your fuses first. If good, replace the headlight switch.

even if you hear pump run, dosent mean it has enough pressure. it is very possible this is the problem. could be engine miss as well. does it jerk when accellerating (light load, like in overdrive up a hill?) let me know.

could be chain in transfer case is worn

why did you replace the ecu? does the engine crank over?

If you have already checked the relay and fuse then have someone bang on the fuel tank hard while you crank the engine, if it starts then you know you have a bad fuel pump.

did you make sure to remove the old oil filter gasket before putting the new one on cause sometimes they stick on there,check your old oil filter if it has the rubber gasket on it or not,and drain 1 quart out of the oil plug if you put too much in or you will blow oil seals

Hello,
After your exhaustive tasks I feel one of two things are left to rule out.
First, have you an air lock? did you bleed the cooling system after installation of parts? if not try parking on level ground, with engine cold not running remove coolant filler cap and top up if required to correct level.
Start the vehicle and leave to idle with cap off, have plenty of hot water available, when at operating temperature you may here gurgling and see bubbles in the cooling system Beware not to get too close as it will hopefully boil over, after it does top up with warm water and wait, keep blower on full and heat to max inside vehicle.
It may boil/bubble over a few times before settling if so top up and replace cap once settled.
Finally if an abundant amount of air bubbles are continually visible and regular bubbling over then unfortunately the cylinder head or gasket could be at fault.
I hope this points you in the correct area.
Please remember to politely rate this possible remedy!
Onyer~EDson(:0) {#><U.K.

No the problem is the cluster computer is defective, remove it from the truck and have it rebuilt by a local GM cluster repair shop, turn around is about 1 week so plan on not having use of the vehicle.

get an arm from auto salvage they aren't that much then use ty wraps to hold hose in place. make sure you get an arm with the spray nozzle built in.ty wraps are also called zip ties.

ok im stupid whats vss...repost