20 Most Recent 1998 Chevrolet Tahoe - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Jason, it can be a number of things causing the vibration..check the obvious first like Glenn Blevins answer. If that doesn't help then go on to the less obvious things..Like... Hard starting or getting real bad gas mileage? (I know, the mileage sucks to begin with..I own a 2000 OBS Tahoe Limited so I know the mileage sucks!) *Fuel pressure regulator.. *Spider fuel injection..Check these to make sure pressure is holding good. *Distributor..They wear and act crazy...I'm in the process of changing mine now...It made my Hoe shake badly! I don't know what the mileage is on your Hoe but I would say it's about time to start checking all the things I have mentioned. There are lots of really good forums to get info on these trucks..OBS (Old Body Style) trucks have a large cult following so you will not be at a loss for info. The vibration started at about 40 mph and would chill out around 65 mph...I knew it wasn't tires/rims on mine so I hit the forums and found a new world of info and testing to do on mine. If it turns out to be a worn distributor on yours, go to ebay and purchase an billet aluminum made one..about 5-10 dollars more than the stock plastic shell OEM one that came on the truck.

I believe it is under the intake manifold and i also think there are 2 of them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytqXLSjHNm0

sound's as if either the wheels are out of balance, or the brake rotors are out of round,,, i would say the rotors may need replaced, but have the wheels checked if that's not the prob then replace the roto rs

This happens when the ignition can't read the key. If it is not starting when it does this. to fix this leave the key in the on position not running for 10 min or till the security key flashes and turn it off wait 5 seconds and then start it. If the light stays on and it is running just drive it like that put some electrical tape over the light. ours has bin on for 84,000 km and this no start thing has happened a few times this is a common gm problem. hope this helps you.

might you have the wrong switch , doesnt mean its right if it just "fit"

check for cracks in cap. replace cap and rotor if necessary. should be sealed at the bottom

Why are you doing this? These units seldom fail. If you are certain it is bad, disconnect the battery, unscrew the cable from the ecm, replace it with the new one, and reconnect all. May require driving for several miles to learn engine before it all smooths out.

If the new ecm is stock, should need no change. Even if non-stock, if we are talking about the knock sensor, no change should be needed.

The speedometer is operated differently then the tachometer. Tachometer The tachometer displays the engine speed in revolutions per minute (RPM). Voltage pulses are taken from the ignition control module (ICM) (Gasoline) or the generator (Diesel) and sent to the tachometer. Solid state circuits convert the pulse frequency in order to move the pointer of the tachometer. Tachometer Inoperative (Gas) Step Action Value(s) Yes No 1 Did you perform the OBD II System Check been performed? -- Go to Step 2 Go to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check (5.0L/5.7L); Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check (7.4L) 2 Remove the I/P Cluster. Disconnect the Ignition Coil connector. Connect a J 39200 DMM (continuity) between I/P Cluster connector cavity 6 and ground. Is continuity present? -- Go to Step 3 Go to Step 4 3 Locate and repair the short to ground in CKT 121 (WHT) between the Ignition Coil and the I/P cluster. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems. Is the repair complete? -- Refer to Instrument Cluster System Check -- 4 Connect a J 39200 DMM (continuity) from I/P Cluster cavity 6 to ignition coil connector cavity B. Is continuity present? -- Go to Step 5 Go to Step 6 5 Replace the I/P Cluster. Refer to Instrument Cluster Replacement . Is the repair complete? -- Refer to Instrument Cluster System Check -- 6 Locate and repair the open in CKT 121 (WHT) between the Ignition Coil and the I/P Cluster. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems. Is the repair complete? -- Refer to Instrument Cluster System Check

Frozen caliper

your over running clutch band is either broken or worn out . trans needs to come out to be repaired, its not worth just putting in the band. as lonas your in the trans its not much more to have it rebuilt. alot of labor not alot in parts.

Sounds like a bad spark plug or spark plug wire and if thats not it try checking the fuel injector

Was there a hose on the old one? If not, you don't have one. It is most likely your fuel pump if you are not getting fuel.

it could be a lot of things I would check the u joints on the drive line I would also check the transmission mount as well the break pads could be sticking to the rotors too where is the clicking noise coming from front back in the middle

How did it get wet? High pressure car wash? Was it hot or running at the time? Have you tried drying everything off? It is possible to crack a coil or some other part if you hose down a hot engine. Are you getting spark? Are you getting fuel?

Is this one of those rare Chevy Lincolns? What are you really trying to fix? Generally, remove distributor, wires, fuel lines, unbolt manifold and remove. You did put engine on TDC with #1 plug in compression stroke? You did mark the position of the rotor. You need to by a cheap shop manual to walk you through the steps and insure you don't mess up the spark timing.

Sounds as if fuel injector is not getting pulse. Could be bad fuse, low fuel pressure, bad ecm, other.

I think this is just a switch located at base of steering column which is actuated by the brake pedal arm.