2002 Chevrolet Astro - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

sounds like a sensor is out or your fuse is out try those two things hope that helps

Clean the Throttle Body and MAF. Common fix for rough idle. https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+chevy+astro+clean+throttle+body ..

Is there B+ voltage to the switch ? Check for broken wires inside the rubber boot from the body to the door . I did check switches on doors and found good continuity. ??? Ohm test or voltage Is there B+ voltage on the orange wire at the drivers door switch ? There are two relays one locks the other unlocks . The Cig LTR fuse supplys B+ voltage to the door switches ,not the actuators . PWR ACCY circuit breaker powers the actuators through the lock / unlock relays ! Check out wiring diagram here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

first check fuel pump and make sure fuel filter is not clogged up. Is your air filter clean? undo all ground wires to shiny clean and screw back tight. good luck.

Sounds like a bad oil pump. Stop running the engine!

This is a very good forum, (like this one, but for Astro owners) check it out... Wet carpet under driver feet Page 2

• Open pet cock drain valve at bottom of radiator
• Open top radiator cap
• Allow to drain into bucket or pan, then dispose of responsibly. This is dangerous to your pets.
• Then loosen and remove any one radiator hose
  • Introduce a flow of water from a garden hose into a created opening, either the hose or other end.
  • Keep doing this until water is clear coming out opposite end.
  • Then switch, and do that again
• Remove thermostat
  • Flush out that area
• The more flushing, and the more areas opened after the initial, the better.
  • Upper and lower radiator hoses

its a temperature sensor thats connected to a pop off valve its usually in the main wiring harness 16 to 14 guage wire should be sufficient for the repair and make sure u have splice connectors black tape corrodes quickly and could lead to other costly repairs the starting problem sounds like a crank position sensor located on the bottom of the motor

Check the timing again to make sure you didn't slip a tooth when you lined up the marks. Make sure #1 is at TDC and the rotor in the distributor is pointing at the #1 plug on the cap.

Is it a strong spark at the coil? If it is to weak it won't travel through the wire.

A Chilton/Haynes manual for your make/model/year will give you the exact location. They can be purchased at parts stores. My best, off the top of my head guess, would be in the fuse/relay panel under the hood on either the firewall or inner fender well.

likely to be a vacuum problem from the engine compartment to the thing that controls all the heater flaps in the dashboard .. thin hard plastic pipe from the passenger side of the front of the engine compartment to passenger cabin tends to get fragile with age/chafe somewhere and break/chafe a hole, you lose the vacuum to the actuating flaps & then air doesn't come out. fairly easy to replace as long as you use the original pipe to pull the new one through

Only rust from neglect,holding it on Whatever you do to get it off ,you can replace it,because it will be all warped from hitting it or whatever you try Watch some You Tube Video on that

Antitheft or Security system failure is a common problem on GM vehicles. Every time you put your key in the ignition, the vehicle's security system reads the signal from your key to make sure it is OK to run. When it receives the "correct key" signal, the security system allows the starter to turn over, and/or the fuel injectors to function and your car works like it normally does every day. If you were to use a different key, or try to hot wire it, the system would shut down these parts of your car, thus making the vehicle completely immobile. This is GM's way of preventing vehicle theft. The problem is that the system is known to fail quite commonly. It has been failing consistently for around 30 years. When it fails, two things can happen. First, you turn the key and nothing happens at all. Lights work, radio works, windows work... just not the starter that you need to start the vehicle. This is a "starter immobilizer". Second, you turn the key and the vehicles starts just fine, but then stalls in 2-5 seconds. This is a "fuel immobilizer". It literally cuts off the fuel injectors and stalls the vehicle to immobilize it. These are normally, but not always followed by a light on the dash that says SECURITY or ANTITHEFT. These lights are to inform you of the system's failure to collect the information it needs from your key to the computer. If your security/antitheft light is on, odds are you will be stranded soon, if not already. Remember that the security system controls the security light. If the system is failing, the light may never warn you of the failure. There is a lot of info on this site that you can read up on. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

GM uses a direct connection to the starter solenoid from the ignition switch/cluster switch. There is no starter relay.

The CV axle stub (end with the axle nut on it) supports the wheel bearing, removing the axle then driving on it would cause the bearing to wear prematurely. I would not recommend this. The front differential is also sealed by the cv assembly, removing it would cause the diff fluid to leak out . CV shafts for this van run $50-80. I would replace if it is bad, instead.

what is your question ?

That switch should be mounted on the pedal bracket. The low brake fluid sensor on the master cyl will also make that warning light come on.

try junkyard or ebay

Sounds like a bad booster