20 Most Recent 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Side cover of tranny needs to be removed. You will see the solenoids and match it up with the one you have.

Replacing the studs are a simple task on most smaller cars....However some can be difficult...on a cavalier for instance just tap the broken stud out with a hammer..(May need a chisel also)..Call a parts store to see if they have it in stock..Measure another stud in hub for quick identification at parts store..Take stud removed with you to be sure you get the correct part..(don't forget your tape measure..)..Inspect new stud to verify all threads are well grooved with no dents in threads..(I have bought some that we're damaged..).measure new stud for correct length ..don't forget to get the nut as well..also a small pack of anti-seize for smooth installation...Once you get home install the new stud by hand to see how thick the grasping points that hold the stud in place..If they seem too thick to go in,file a small amount off the points for easier installation..(They need to fit tightly so it will be slightly hard to hammer it into position , although some are made to thick...I have had to file many new studs...)After filing install it by hand to see if it will go in slightly easier but not fall in without hitting it...Now put a small amount of anti-seize on your finger and wipe inside of the stud hole and around the stud grasping area that you filed..(If you had to file it.)...place the stud in by hand straight as possible and give it a slight tap with hammer..you will have to hit it at a slight angle so tap it in as best as you can then use a strong chisel to tap it in until it is flush with hub...It may be best to remove bake caliper/brake pads/and rotor since you have never done this..It will be much easier...Take a good look or have an assistant view it with you or in some case's take a photo..but it is simple compared to rear brake shoe hardware removal..Make sure you have correct tight fitting socket..(probably a 13 or 14mm.).good flat tipped screw driver and ratchet of course..remove caliper bolts and pry caliper slowly..remove pads..The rotor just slides off..(You may have to tap rotor off because over time rust and or corrosion also impact of course will make the rotor tight against it seeming it can't be removed...So just take a hammer and a small block of wood to place between hammer and rotor to not damage rotor and hit it..it will surely come off..If you don't have a block of wood you can hit it anyway with a hammer because it won't damage it bad enough to hurt it...then easily hammer stud in place..install all removed ..you may have to tap rotor on with hammer to be sure it it flush and in place..put brake pads back in position..be sure they are turned correctly and not metal back of pad against rotor..after pads are in place..(Some pads clip inside caliper and will come off with caliper..)..place caliper over rotor with all in perfect place..start installing caliper bolts by hand 6 to 8 turns..make sure they go in smooth..then use socket ratchet and torque them..get them as tight as it was coming off..It don't have to be extremely tight..Don't want to beak these off !!...After assembled check everything to make sure all is in place..install tire and lug nuts...push tire flat against hub and hand tighten all nuts by hand completely..have an assistant hold brake and torque nuts to spec..(good and tight but not too tight)..No need to break another stud...if you are alone you can tighten lug nuts without braking because of being a front wheel drive..however less stress on trans is better......Do this job with parking brake on,in park,and have a good jack stand for safety...block wheels so it won't roll.also wear safety glasses..Hope this helps.."....Brooks/Metalpoet..........

Do a compression test.should be all close. 175-150 or so.

check real close, it is either a cracked manifold. or the manifold gasket are bad. while running engine put hand around manifold, but do not touch it or you will get burnt. this way if it is leaking, you will feel the exhaust coming out. Hope this helps, Good-Day!

the a/c light will stay on and this is perfectly normal. when your heat is on the compressor is not running. the a/c doesn't come on unless you turn your dial to cold.

On the bottom of your stereo front there are two arrow keys. One is for hours(L) and the other(R) is minutes. Turn stereo off and press each one until you get the time you want.

If your car shakes as well you could have a bad tire or a bad bearing. If you change your bearing do both sides as the other side could go soon too. Better safe than sorry and more cost efficient.

This could indicate you have a loose generator belt and your battery is not charging properly. Check your belts and have your battery terminals cleaned and tight. If not you may have electrical problems.

The fuse box is located on the left side of your dash. You must open your door to access it. It is part of the dash and has a hinge on the bottom. The washer fuse is towards the motor on the last row of fuses.

quite a common problem with computer controlled cars (have an ECU or similar to control engine, brakes etc) unfortunately the only simple answer is to remove the new item.... even then, some faults might need "clearing" by a main dealer diagnostic machine

Hello and Welcome to FixYa.com

It is reminding you to change the oil

Thank you for using FixYa.com

Regards, Lee Davidian

Your FixYa Expert

idle air control [iac] system rpm higher than expected--causes a vacuum leak --leaking air intake after throttle body ---egr valve vacuum leak--damaged/failed/dirty throttle body---a faulty positive crankcase ventilation valve [pcv]----faulty/damaged evap system---failed/faulty [iac] idle air controller //circuit

Your engine has severe blowby. The piston rings need to be replaced or your engine replaced. The excessive blowby is probably fouling out your spark plugs.

You have a loose cover.

Borrow, beg, steal, rent or otherwise obtain a plug in computer tester. Plug into the special plug under the dash near the steering wheel. Turn on the ignition key. See what code is showing. Be guided accordingly. They will do this free at most auto parts store. You can buy a good unit from Amazon for about $70. It comes in handy and is a lot cheaper than putting on parts you do not need. It could be several things not letting it get spark. Keep the tester for future use or sell if for a profit on Craigslist.

Fuel pump , line leaking near tank.

From your symptoms I would suggest, inspect the Climate Control and the Blower Motor Resister. Locate and remove the resister and test. You are looking for power at the plug (going to the resister). One wire will always be hot (with the ignition key on). The other four wires are ground wires that through the resister, changes the blowers speed. Connect a test-light to 12volts positive, test that the test-light is working, and then start testing for ground. Unplug the resister and test at the plug. With the ignition key on, test each wire. Each wire should light up your test-light depending on the position of the speed control knob. If it passes then plug the resister back in and probe at the blower motor. The blower motor needs both ground and power to run. Find out which is missing and write back. Good luck.