20 Most Recent 2004 Chevrolet Express - Page 8 Questions & Answers

If it is chain, then it doesn't need to be replaced until broken, if it's a belt then it's 90,000

auto model ,yes --between the bolt holes

Apply at heat light to the hinges and the lubricate them all. The heat will make the oils penatrate much quicker

DEPENDS ON THE MILES & USEAGE APX EVERY 60 TO 80 THOU MILES

You will need a 5/8" spark plug socket, a 3/8" ratchet, a 2" X 3/8" extension, a 6"X 3/8" extension, a 3/8" universal joint, and a lot of patience. The spark plugs on an Express are very hard to get to.
First, remove the glove box bezel (the trim around the glove box) by gently prying it off. You may need a small flat-tip screwdriver to do this.
Second, remove the glove box (located underneath the drink holders in the center console beneath the radio), it just snaps in at top.
Third, remove the engine cover. There are four bolts behind the glove box, remove them. Remove the left and right side lower dash panels (they snap in). Release the four clamps, and wiggle and rock the engine cover away from the dash.
Now you get to try to remove the spark plug wires, which will be stuck quite firmly due to the many hours of engine heat. Once you have a wire off, you then have to finagle the spark plug socket onto the plug. You will have to try various combinations of universal/extension/ratchet to accomplish this, and the plugs will be stuck quite firmly as well. Do this one wire/plug at a time.
Gap your replacement plugs to the spec in the owner's manual, usually .060".
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Good luck, and if this helped, please remember to vote/comment.

Ok the problem is with the resistor assembly blowermotor right rear of engine compat.Thanks

Sounds exactly like that. The sending unit should be located at the back of the engine block, on top next to intake manifold.

for the most part you use a breaker bar lift up or push down on the belt tension and remove the belt and do the same thing to put the new one on and there should be a belt diagram under the hood if not give this website a try www.webcrawler.com Merry Christmas and Happy New Year as alway wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.

the brake switch may be bad

under van in front of fueltank near frame on driverside,hope this helps.

if ur replacing it remove front grill disconnect both lines and carefully remove retaining clips from radiator if replacement is original eguipt mount & reconnect --if its a universal follow instructions usually cut off fittings and use clamps and hose to hook up

The load range refers to what used to be ply ratings, it is now the grade for holding pressure at load, a "D" range is equal to 8 ply, and the load index for this tire is approx 2300lbs/tire, the "E" rating is equal to 10 ply, and the load index is approx 2700lbs/tire. If you are hauling 12 passengers at 200lbs/passenger plus driver total is 2600lbs. I would say the "E" rated tire is better for that application. If you need more info you can go to google and type in understanding tire markings or ratings, and there are several sites that will cover all tire markings in depth, I hope this helps, let me know

CHANCES ARE YOUR ELECTRIC MOTOR IS GOING OUT

does it crank over? if not the gear linkage may be out of alignment try different positions such as in neutral drive 2nd if it does work then you need linkage adjusted or fixed. this does not work give more information what does and does not happen when you turn key

missfires can be a vast amount of thing not even related to plugs.can you provide more info.any exhaust leaks,vacume leaks,o2 sensor codes ?

you did not state engine size....and I assume you are referencing your spark plugs.....if the TPS or IAC(throttle position sensor,Idle air controls ) are faulty these will cause performance problems

change the socket

you have to put the key into the ignition setting,and then step on the gas pedal 3 times.that resets it.

I used a screwdriver and hammer to break loose the pads from the bracket they slide onto. Must have been subjected to a lot of heat. Seemed like the pads were almost welded to the brackets. As for the rotor, once you remove the caliper, you have to remove the bracket that holds the caliper. There are two bolts on the back side that secure it. Takes a strong arm and a cheater pipe for more leverage. After this bracket is removed the rotor will slide off.