1995 Chevrolet C/K 2500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

PICKUP not VAN sold new 6 engines, then, 5.0L yours. when did it last run good, last week/month/year /???????? well in shop we'd check all fuses.. 1995 is long in tooth for ECU problems bad caps he ECU runs EFI and spark both ( a huge job) runs ,stalls and not restart. what you failed to I real testing and is not the starter at all. first (besides good engine) is spark if will not start, cranked spark is first unless you learned how to do he ECU CEL blink codes.(more later) I will not stop and see what is there in your shop manual (service) 5.0L v8 gas, engine, this the horrible old TBI system? 1 injector>? or is this the MPI , 8 injector engine, has distributor spark and must be timed correctly to work the CMP is in the dirtributor, the CKP is on the crankshaft. I test for spark first using both ways a test spark plug, gaped right, (new plug not old) and if spark is good great. if old plug is fouled;, carbon, oil soaked or soaking in raw fuel the fuel seen now is flooding, I then use a timing lite (yes even works cranking dead engines) and make sure static time is correct the DIZZY. if not it must be set correctly now. per the manual on car. I use the light to make sure al spark wires spark(mag pickup lamp) if not the distributor or the CKP sensor is dead. if all that seems ok out comes my trusty Instant start spray can. Air cleaner off, spray fuel here, 3 second blast , crank, and repeat until it runs 3 seconds to burn up you fuel sprayed. see? the engine is not dead, now, or IS deaD. IF FLOODING SEEN, crank with foot throttle depressed WOT and the trick cuts off the injector and the flood is cleared even starting an old engine like this with 5% throttle can hide a bad IAC air valve and allow it to start and the a active right foot to keep his beast running. but spark is first it must be good x8 and battery fully charged. this 5.0L is a TBI injected engine, 1/2 injectors not 8 with MPI some have a starting only injector then the signal; main to run theTBI is old and its pressure regulator can be bad./ one trick I use (means tactics) Is that I kill the fuel pump fuse or its relay pulled. this hides the bad TBI fully and now test fuel works all I want showing me it is just bad spark or bad fueling just doing that. the TBI can fail 3 ways, dead, way to lean or way to rich the latter is flooding and WOT cranking can clear floods. the goals ARE TO FIND?.

1. bad engine
2. bad spark
3. bad fueling

OR CATS MELTED, OR EGR STUCK WIDE OPEN BUT THOSE TO 2 THINGS MAKE THE ENGINE BAD. SO IS THAT.#! TBI CAN BE A BIG PAIN NOW THE FLASH CODES, EVER LEARN THAT/ THIS PRE 1996 CAR USA HAS OLD CHEVY OBD1 DIAGNOSTICS most folks never heard of it now but gee it is in the manual for sure. fl\ash codes (blinks) code 13 to 55 or more with A/t box. steps to do this, key off find ALDL connector (DLC modern named ) data link conn. see my photos. (books says under DASH) some near column The diagnostic trouble codes can be read by grounding test terminal B. The terminal is most easily grounded by connecting it to terminal A (internal ECM ground). jumper B to A THEN KEY ON AND CRANK THE ENGINE (BATTERY ALWAYS CHARGED FULLY BY THE TECH) AND CRANK FOR 10SECONDS, NO MORE THE RELEASE THE KEY (NOT OFF) SEE THE LAMP BLINK OUT FAILURES CODES.AT CEL CLUSTER LAMP, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BLICKS AND THE LAMP MUST BE GOOD. (many are removed by evil sellers) quote flash Code 12. The code will display as one flash, a pause and two flashes. Code 12 is not a fault code. It is used as a system acknowledgment or handshake code; its presence indicates that the ECM can communicate as requested. Code 12 is used to begin every diagnostic sequence. Some vehicles also use Code 12 after all diagnostic codes have been sent. then other blink codes are next if stored or are live errors. 2 kinds live and stored, both matter to any tech. after Code 12 has been transmitted 3 times, the fault codes, if any, will each be transmitted 3 times. The codes are stored and transmitted in numeric order from lowest to highest. sorry for long post but 1995 cars are super hard to diagnose. even bad CAPS in the ECU are common now, and show stoppers. CODE 42 OR 43 IS BAD SPARK , I'D NEVER Forget to ask the PCM what errors there are, ever, ask it and win, also the lack of errors has meaning too. full stop this is what I'd do the first hour. ALDL jack (assembly line data link ) conn. CHEVY ONLY !

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Have you actually checked the fuel pressure with and without the gas cap? If you have a tank venting (EVAP) system problem (e.g. blocked vent on gas cap, plugged canister, or one of the two vent valves stuck shut), you can draw too high a vacuum on the tank which will cause a fuel starvation problem.

no the fuse is for the 4 wd shift motor only, when was the transmission serviced last? if you don't know, i would start there If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_4c166ba81493f541

run the fault codes and look for faulty servo/solenoids and TCM it could also be a oil level or oil condition problem I suggest a visit to an accredited auto shop specialist for a proper diagnosis before you waste money if a new box is suggested get second and third opinion and quotes

If you mean for the rear brakes, and you have drum brakes on the rear, the bleed valves are on the back side of the wheels. Look for where the brake line goes to the wheel brake cylinders, and on top of the small brake cylinder is the bleed valve.

There is only 1 VSS on this vehicle. Which sensors did you change?

Check for burnt or damaged sires going to the servo on the transfer case. It looks like a electric motor bolted on the bottom of the T case.

The only thing you are doing by leaving the gas cap off is providing an extra vent to the tank. If that really helps the problem I would take another look at the vapor canister system. There may be a line plugged or a valve not opening.Normally that would set a code in the computer.

Other than having a trans shop road test itIf by chance it is the original trans,pull it& have it rebuiltIf you attempt to clean the valve body,which isworth a try ,you will loose all the check balls,doing it in the vehicle

Okay, we're talking about drums and not rotors, correct?

Some drums have two tapped holes into which you can screw the proper bolt and it will push the drum off.

Before drums started appearing with these "holes", the solution was to loosen the brakes by turning the star wheel adjuster accessed through a slot in the bottom of the back of the wheel. There is a brake tool you can buy at Pep Boys for turning this star wheel. This tool makes it easier than using a screwdriver, but a screwdriver will do.

Charlie

The rotor and wheel bearing come out as an assembly. First put the axle nut back on tight before you do any hammering unless you want to put on a new wheel bearing anyway. If you hammer it with the nut off you risk the chance of separating the bearings in the hub and destroying it. Dont forget to remove the 3 or 4 bolts that hold the wheel bearing in from the back side. Once you get the hub broke loose from the truck then remove the axle nut and remove the assembly. Be careful not to break the abs sensor or wire. To remove the rotor from the hub place the assembly on the bench and drive out all of the lug bolts and the rotor will drop right off.)) I agree with this, good answer, and easy on the hammer.Parts For Porsche Boxster

Most likely the front axle actuator,unhook it ,unscrew it from the axle ,then engage the 4x4 ,see if the actuator extends,if not it will need replaced.

No. If the connector only reads at 8 volts, the current draw would be too excessive for the computer to maintain their operation. You need at least 10 volts with adequate current.Are you measuring the voltage across the injector? or across the connector with no injector installed. If the injector is installed in the circuit, the 8 volts should be fine as you measurig the voltage drop across the injector.

actuator on front end is most likley the prob unplug screw out replace not to expensive

Pull the exhaust clamp slide pipe back a hair it'll come right out

if your petal just goeas to the floor and there is no leaks master cylinder

Thats not good !I suggest that the truck be started and warmed up a while.Then try to drive it around a bit in the yard or where ever.If that doesnt work out the suspected clog, then I would roll under the truck and look to see if something hasn't eatten away at the wire harness for the trans.

that trans is a little to lite duty for a diesel, u can use it but u will need to install the computer and the correct wiring harness.

varies per vehicle, sorry no photos to be had. most time studs are in the front for a/c and alt brackets