20 Most Recent
1995 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 - Page 9 Questions & Answers
I am having problems with
Yes there is a relay. It may be behind or under glove box. This could be your problem.. Have you tried direct wire your fan to battery to see if it cranks on high then? If so, then the switch is bad. If fan motor works sometimes but not all the time or cuts out, then I would say the relay is loose or bad.
No brake lights
Check your brake light switch see if you have power in and out when you press on brake pedal if no power bad switch, if top middle brake light work's, you'll need the turn signal switch, brake light circuit run throw switch .
I have 95 silverado diesel. turn the key and no
glow plug controller.it is located on the right rear of the engine and looks like an old ford starter solenoid.It has a big power wire going to it and a couple of little wires. They are your signal from the ignition switch and the other is for your glow plug light. Replace the controller--not too complicated-just mark which wires go to what and its pretty simple.
Keep blowing a fuse on marker lights and dash
disconnect marker lights from power re insert fuse if dash stays on search for trouble in marker light circuit possible bad ground or bulb short in socket if dash blows fuse than look under dash for a damaged feed line shorting or ground short
Battery wont stay charged overnight
WHEN YOU CONNECT THE BATTERY SEE IF YOU SEE A SPARK,IF SO THEN SOMETHING IS DRAINGING THE BATTERY ,DO THIS IN THE DARK,YOU MIGHT NEED A HIGHER OUTPUT ALTERNATOR
My Mitchell does not show the proper diagram. I
I finally got the diagram by combining system diagrams from the 94-96 mitchell. Dumb way to do it. Piece of cake after that. Some idiot installed an aftermarket remote start and pinched a wire. took a while to vibrate through the insulation and ground itself. Corrected it and now everything works fine. The factory connectors at the headlamp switch also will deteriorater over time but all you have to do is unpin the connector and direct connect with solder. Lasts forever. I've been doing the same with a lot of GM underchassis connectors that go "green". If you're careful, you can cut the connector and expose whats left of the connector blade that is embedded in the plastic. Depin the appropriate wire or wires, solder direct, then embed in GOOD silicone. Milspec advised if you can get. If not, good old ultra black permatex is about the best. I saved two customers a bundle doing this on buick and olds Rendevous at the all wheel drive solonoid. Turn a $800 dollar job into $150 job.
1993 chevy silverado 4x4 4.3 4sp. clutch issue
somthing is leaaking down then from what your desribing. probably the slave is it leaking fluid into the bellhousing?? these do trap air badly too because the bleeder is on the rear of the slave and it runs down hill with the drive train. jack the rear of truck as high as possible to get the air to rise to bleeder and bleed again
How to replace a middle bearing in drive shaft.
Replacing the mid-ship carrier bearing is not that hard.
You will need to unbolt the U-joints, seperate the drive shafts.
Unbolt bearing retainer. Take this to a good auto parts shop that has a machine shop. Tell them you need a new one and they will do the rest.
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