2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It sounds like you have a ground problem. Have you checked to see that the "new" battery is fully charged? Have you checked to see if the starter motor is getting current when you try to start the truck? Have you checked to see if the battery cables and terminals are corroded, or the cables themselves corroded at any point? You also might have an ignition switch problem due to age or use. You also might have a computer problem that is keeping the circuits from connecting properly. If you have a OBD II scanning tool, it might well tell you exactly where the problem is. Scanners are inexpensive and available almost everywhere. I bought mine through Amazon for less than $25 including shipping.

for 4wl need to be stopped and put in neutral or park it wont actuate while driving [ blinking light indicates failure to engage ] 4wd hi can do while driving --if fails also then check and test for actuator sticking --control module --or transfer case failure

What ????????????

Remove plugs and check compression, maybe burnt valve, unseated valve

indicates injector problems and possible low fuel pressure run the fault codes to check for EVAP and blocked cat converters

If the transmission isn't shifting out of second, it's in "limp in" mode and there will be a trouble code stored in the computer. Start by getting the trouble code instead of trying to guess is a certain wire is the problem

Hey RPG, There is a sensor on the side of the output shaft (Speedo).. Mine had become covered with metal crud and would not work,, pulled it out, cleaned it,..(replace the o-ring on the sensor!!) and it ran fine.. This might not work for you, but it did for me. Next.. take it too O'Reilly's, Auto Zone, or Advance Auto and ask the to scan you truck for a trouble code..(free) and see what turns up.. Good Luck.. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/ Home Page Reilly Auto Parts Save 20 On Online Ship To Home Orders Of 100 Or More

our temperature control actuator is bad. It's a little motor that moves the temp door. They are about $70 at the dealer. To change it you need to remove the knee trim panel on the passenger side (3 screws, 7mm socket). The actuator is in the center above the transmission hump. It has one harness plugged into it and 2 screws (5.5 mm). Take the screws out and it should drop straight down. Align the actuator with the lever on the door and put the screws in. Plug the harness back in. Turn your temp control to cold and remove the HVAC 1 fuse. Should be in the fuse panel on the drivers side of the dash. Turn your key to run and leave it on for at least 1 minute. Turn your key back off and put the fuse back in. P.S. The trim panel is a PITA to get off, so while you have it off check to see if you have the cabin air filters and change them while you are under there. Big Daddy Also there is an article in the Tech Corner on changing the cabin air filters. GM# 52474810

Does the vehicle start an run ? If it does ,the brain as you call it is working fine . The check engine light has nothing to do with the PCM /ECM sensing problems .You probably should take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop .

Yes we can ! With the light on and or flashing , DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes are stored in the 4X4 control module . Have the codes check , not at auto zone or any other parts stores . There code reader tool will not pull this codes . Need to take to a qualified repair shop . Testing also needs to done , not guessing an throwing parts at it . This 4X4 system can set a number of codes . DTC B2725 ATC Mode Switch Circuit Malfunction DTC C0300 Rear Speed Sensor Malfunction DTC C0305 Front Speed Sensor Malfunction DTC C0308 Motor A/B Circuit Low DTC C0309 Motor A/B Circuit High DTC C0310 Motor A/B Circuit Open DTC C0315 Motor Ground Circuit Open DTC C0323 T-Case Lock Circuit Low DTC C0324 T-Case Lock Circuit High DTC C0327 Encoder Circuit Malfunction DTC C0362 4LO Discrete Output Circuit High DTC C0367 Front Axle Control Circuit High DTC C0374 General System Malfunction DTC C0376 Front/Rear Shaft Speed Mismatch DTC C0387 Unable to Perform Shift DTC C0550 ECU Malfunction DTC C0611 VIN Information Error DTC C0387 Unable to Perform Shift Circuit Description The transfer case encoder is a switch that converts a shaft position, representing a mode or range position, into electrical signals for use by the transfer case shift control module. The encoder houses 4 Hall effect sensors that are used for channels P, A, B, and C. These sensors provide a path to ground, when a magnet, (part of the Motor Encoder), passes over them. The transfer case shift control module supplies an 8 V reference and a ground circuit for the encoder hall effect sensors to function. The transfer case shift control module supplies current limited 5 V on all the channels, thus as these channels are pulled to ground, the module can interpret the location of the transfer case shift position. This DTC detects that the transfer case is unable to successfully complete a shift to a requested mode or range.

Can you get in the vehicle though another door and use the inside handle to open the drivers door?

Bleeder screws , If you haven't replaced the unit you don't need to do anything with them . Don't need to have the vehicle running , just bleed the brakes normally . If you have replaced the Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit you need a factory scan tool to cycle the unit solenoids Important: • Use the two-person bleed procedure under the following conditions: - Installing a new Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) or new Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV). - Air is trapped in the valve body • Do not drive the vehicle until the brake pedal feels firm. • Do not reuse brake fluid that is used during bleeding. • Use the vacuum, the pressure and the gravity bleeding procedures only for base brake bleeding. Raise the vehicle in order to access the system bleed screws. Bleed the system at the right rear wheel first. Install a clear hose on the bleed screw. Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a container partially filled with clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Open the bleed screw 1/2 to one full turn. Slowly depress the brake pedal. While the pedal is depressed to its full extent, tighten the bleed screw. Release the brake pedal and wait 10-15 seconds for the master cylinder pistons to return to the home position. Repeat the previous steps for the remaining wheels. The brake fluid which is present at each bleed screw should be clean and free of air. This procedure may use more than a pint of fluid per wheel. Check the master cylinder fluid level every four to six strokes of the brake pedal in order to avoid running the system dry. Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure. Release the brake pedal between each test. Bleed all four wheels again using Steps 3-9. This will remove the remaining air from the brake system. Evaluate the feel of the brake pedal before attempting to drive the vehicle. Bleed the system as many times as necessary in order to obtain the appropriate feel of the pedal.

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals

Lets examine your readings first. Code 154 means the sensor is not switching from lean to rich enough in 60 seconds. And there is no such thing as average voltage. The O2 sensors generate their own voltage by measuring oxygen in the exhaust. They also have heaters that get power from a relay. But a problem with the heaters should be a different code. When the engine is running, the computer varies "on" time for the injectors based on engine temp, throttle position, and unburned fuel in the exhaust. So when the O2 sensors send voltage higher than .5 to the computer, the computer calls that RICH and shortens on time for the injectors. Then when the O2 sensor drops voltage down below .5 it reads LEAN, and the computer lengthens on time for the injectors. This back and forth switching should happen several times each minute. Like the tick tock of a clock. If the sensor(s) are slow to switch, or they stay on lean or rich for more than 30 seconds, you get the code 154. Each sensor has a different code for the same issue. It could be a sensor problem, or a fuel problem, or something else. Too lean can be low fuel pressure, too rich can be not enough air flow coming into the intake.

If you mean the heater core is leaking. Here is how to change it:

Heater Core Removal & Installation Heater core removal

To Remove:

1. Remove the HVAC assembly.
2. Remove the heater core cover screws.
3. Remove the heater core cover from the HVAC assembly.
4. Remove the heater core gasket from the core.
5. Remove the heater core from the HVAC module assembly.

To Install:

1. Install the heater core to the HVAC module assembly.
2. Install the heater core cowl gasket to the HVAC module assembly.
3. Install the heater core cover and screws to the HVAC module assembly.
4. Install the HVAC module assembly to the vehicle.

If there is no oil pressure or the alternator is not working, the fuel pump won't either. Check the oil pressure sender and the alternator for a problem there.

Chec fuelfilter for clog. New pump may not hav a goodground like the first one. Fuelpump regulator mite b problm tu....its in engine area

Both the hinge bolts and the latch bolts can be slackened off and the door position changed. It's a matter of determining where you want to have it, where it is now, and around what point it has to move to get the desired result. Sometimes it helps to support the weight of the door on a small floor jack. Use a block of wood to prevent damage to the door.

You may want to replace the caliper as it is very hard to rebuild them and get the honing correct so the piston doesn't stick.

I think around 1993 and some 1994 had r12 but if you look on top of the dryer, if it is the original it will tell you what type to use to recharge the system. or on the radiator support in the front there is a sticker with the type on it.