These vehicles were known for faulty hazard switches. They would cause an intermittent turn signal flash when you hadn't activated turn signals or they would prevent the turn signals from working at all. Operate the hazard switch and see if the turn signals work again. If so, replace the hazard switch
The brake warning light should not affect the truck not starting...most of the time is because of low brake fluid or the emergency brake is on. To check for codes you should just turn the key to the on position and you need to try resetting you anti theft light.
Yes it is most likely a vacuum actuator there are more then one . They open and close little doors in the ducts to deriect air flow inside the ducts . They are not easy to get at in most cases however you should look at all vacuum lines going to and near the unit its controlled by engine vacuum . exhust all other opptions first before takeing the dash out . The problem could also be electrical check the control switches make sure the switch is not bad on one side . Spend some time looking and thinking before you start riping things apart. Good luck with it
Sounds like no power to the flasher module - check with a multimeter and if no power, check the module connector, fuse and power line back to the fuse box.
I fixed this problem on my truck by changing the Oil Pump Inlet Tube O-Ring. The lifters are the first part that don't get enough oil after this o-ring breaks down. All Chevrolet mid 2000s era 5.3L O-Ring fails around 150-190K.
Oil Pump Inlet tube O-Ring Replacement
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1e3kx3mOMY
Best Manuals I honestly suggest you to not waste money on repairs. They're never satisfying and mechanics don't keep you in the loop very much. Try manuals and doing it yourself, you'll know better, and can also judge better.
Dear Matt,
I am so sorry to tell you........yes.
There is another approach to this problem that many thousands of people use every year.
I have used this approach many times myself, since I have had cars with this problem,. and fixed them for other people.
What your dealer is telling you is the cost of replacing the lines with OE parts.
(OE means original equipment. )
And yes, those lines are put onto the frame of the truck before the body is attached, so they really would have to remove the body to change them.
However.
What I and thousands of others have done is buy straight brake lines by the piece, different lengths according to what you need, and then hand bend them to fit the job.
That means the replacements will not be in the same places as the original, and may be longer or shorter than the original.
Your total cost of parts & labor should more approach about a few hundred dollars. ( Maybe 200 - 300?)
God bless your efforts.
Until you locate the source of problem cut off the flow of coolant to heater radiator. If there is an electrically controlled valve that feeds the core, that could be the issue with it stuck in the open position.
Have you checked B+ power feed for memory to the PCM ? The PCM/ECM - engine computer has a couple of power feeds and one is for the keep alive memory . Looking at a wiring diagram of the powers and grounds would show that . Testing with a volt meter would show if it has power or not . Check PCM B fuse 20 amp located in the under hood fuse box . An don't just look at it ,check for voltage across the fuse . This fuse should be hot at all times .
just depends on what work was done and what was replaced last service
clatter and loss of power etc
could be timing out . a spark or fuel delivery issue
to clear the codes
undo the battery terminals ...count ten reconnect
if engine light stays on
there will be fault codes to be read from the ECU
Drivers side (under the hood) by the empty battery tray. The inside large one is the ecm. There are tiny red clips that get pushed back first. Then about the center you push in and the whole clip rotates and then the whole thing comes of the ecm. Bottom one is the same. Unit clips in top tabs. Lift them slightly and remove ecm
