20 Most Recent 1981 Chevrolet Corvette - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Are you saying vehicle is running on 2 barrels?
Time for a rebuild if thats the case. Kinda strange that secondaries are not opening. Make sure likages are not binding. Thats the only time I've ever seen that linkages binded.

Visually inspect horn make sure its not corroded and wiring is on it tight. Then use a voltmeter and when horn button is depressed 12v should register on the meter. If 12v are there and horn doesn't sound the horn is defective. If 12v does not make it there then its either the relay or clock spring (located inside steering wheel) most likely. A visual inspection should pretty much do it with the clock spring (corrosion ,wear of contacts). Relay must have B+ going to it at all times and coming out only when horn is depressed. good luck

Usually the blue wire from the stereo is for the remote amp and/or power antenna. If you haven't cut off the stock radio plug, I would check into getting a stereo harness adapter for the stereo. Most auto stereo shops can get them.

low on brake fluid

The relay has to get power from the key switch to operate, so either a protection fuse has blown, or the key switch is faulty.

You would get the correct carburetor instead for electronic computurized controlled carbs will not work on a 1981 Corvette

If the preload is too tight where the pittman arm attaches to the valve it will turn on it's own.It's been a long time but...I'm sure there is a screw very near the pittman arm on the valve assembly,loosen it a little at a time untill it steers normally.If you get it too loose the assist feels "sloppy" or "jerky"

Check the hall effect switch in the distributor. That will cause this problem for no spark

I would ahve the alternator tested to see if it was bad first, if so I would replace it and see if that improves your choke situation. If the alternator is not putting out enough voltage it can affect other systems in you car including an electric choke system.

There is an inline fuse,and relay for the horn behind the center instrument panel.If the fuse is good then follow the dark green wire from the relay to the horns.You can ohm the wire to see if there is an open circuit from the relay to the horns.Hope this helps.Good luck.

because the car thinks its stolen you need to goto a garage i dont think a keyless entry was available on it so that wouldnt help

If you have no power to anything, such as headlights
radio/wipers etc. The fusable link at the starter may
have fried. Try using a jumper wire from the battery connection on the alternator to the + post on the batt.
If you get you're power back, replace the link wire.
It's a rust colored wire on the battery con. at the solenoid.They somtimes have a yellow tag with the amp rating. This was a fairly common problem back
in the day. Also check for any shorted wires that may
have caused the link to pop, and make sure the alt.
starter and battery connections are clean and tight.
Hope this helps.

If not under your hood then i would suggest getting a GM. repair manual.

so you have no power to the wires to the switch or no power on the switch

Thats because the older style GM blowers depended a lot on bushings for rotation, and as we all know bushings just cant outlast bearings. It looks like you'll need to replace that fan motor.

Hook up an Ammeter in series to the negative battery cable and negative battery post.This way you have full battery voltage during testing .
Then remove the switch for the wipers . Watch the meter once the voltage returns to normal you have found your culprit. If voltage doesn't return to normal do the same for the motor and its relay(I would open up the relay and look it over first)
If all this fails I'll send you the diagram.At that point your on a "Hunt for Red October" I'm out of town currently keep me posted.

Big problem with these cars is the electrical connector behind the driver seat on the floor. Son of a gun to open use a small screw driver and be careful. They must closetightly and hold. 90% of time the terminals are loaded with corrosion. Remove battery power from the vehicle and either clean them or replace them. If that doesn't work pull seat cushions out and test the switch. Use shop manual for this
simple test. Either check the switch for resistance or remove the switch from the electrical connectors and jump the terminals with a jumper wire to see if you get the seat motor to move. If it does you need a new switch if it doesn't you need a new motor. Shop manual may have another way to test this with the switch in place. Here you are measuing for continuity.
This is fun stuff . good luck &keep me posted