Top 20 1999 Chevrolet C/K 2500 Questions & Answers

loose connection in the wiring somewhere.

Sounds like a bad switch or button. Poke at the button with the back of a writing pen...My button wasnt working due to spilling coffee on it..You know like at the gas stations...the most used buttons go out first..Just something to check..Good luck

need new turn signal arm on steering column

Alternator is not charging battery starts a car and then alternator runs all power needs...

Have you bled the power steering system and removed the air ?

replace the boost sensor its about $60 that will clear the PO236 codes (i beleive that was the code) Duralast part # is su129 and has a lifetime warranty. located under the "turbo power" engine cover if you havent removed that yet take it off and leave it off reduces heatsounds like your vacuum pump is bad remove it, buy a 99.5" serpentine belt and do a mechanical wastegate. adjust the spring to the boost you want. good luck

worm gear on what as only ever seen a worm over wheel gear set up on a foden 32 ton 4 axle bulker ,they use a special oil as well as the gears are phospor bronze ,Now do you mean a hypoid gear like a modern car differential

Try owner's manual free PDF http://manualowl.com

The security light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM. (Theft Deterrent Module) The TDM is what tells your computer that the correct key is being used and that it is "OK" to allow the vehicle to start and run. These 3 parts must be in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending important signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, (normally due to a failing/broken part) the car goes into antitheft mode. The car misinterperates this and thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is NOT getting that signal from YOUR specific key. There is where the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. So basically, if that light is on, your system has some sort of failing part. This can start as an intermittent "no start", to your vehicle not running for days at a time, to the vehicle NEVER starting again. The problem is electrical and computer based, so don't count on an easy reset button, or the problem fixing itself. The hard part is isolating which part is the problem. You can spend a thousand dollars through a mechanic very easily. I have had great luck with bypassing the entire system. This way the problem will never return. It actually CAN'T ever return because it is eliminated. This can also be done yourself at a much cheaper cost. Read through this link very carefully. You'll find alot of information and pictures, along with ways to help you fix this.http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

It's quite rare for one of these pan gaskets to leak so before you take it off I would suggest thoroughly cleaning the entire pan and then going for a short test run then carefully inspecting the pan area again to see if you can pinpoint the exact source of the leak. Often I see the oil filter adapter or oil cooler lines [if equipped] leaking which can cause oil to run down the side of the pan and make it appear as though the pan gasket has failed. Sorry I don't have the procedure for removal of the pan but I rarely have to take one off for a leak. Hope this helps and good luck!

Is thee security light on the dash illuminated when this happens? Http://newrockies.com/passkey

Check to see if the Engine Coolant Temp sensor is disconnected or the wires to it broken. Test the ECT for proper operation. If this sensor fails, it will send a message to the computer that the engine is still full cold--even though the engine may be warm. The computer will schedule too much fuel for a warm engine and you'll have flooding out.

Did you put membrane/gasket on back sides of pads and or did you resurface rotors/drums? Both are squeak sources. Membrane/gasket insulates harmonics and should be used on back side of all pads.

Tires must be the same height, you may have to walk around it and measure the height of all 4 tires and they need the same air pressure . Sometimes the front tires will squat down from sitting even if they are all the same brand. The weight of the motor can cause this. A person in that Case can switch the back tires to the front and see what happens.

look in the vortec how to section in hekowrench.com

security light is on

Either bad idle air control sensor or trans or brake has a short. Many sensors can cause a stall especially if sending voltage spikes to computer through signal wire and will kill engine in a second. Check the sensors.

Look toward the front bottom and remove that screw, then there is one at the armrest. If power windows, carefully pry the switch assembly up and disconnect electrical connectors. Carefully pry out the trim piece around the door handle. Next remove that triangle shaped plastic piece at the top of the door trim, it just comes straight out, ( use a small screwdriver or putty knife to gently pry it out from the edge ) , once you are sure you have found all the screws, start at the bottom of the panel and pry it out, when the fasteners are out lift the panel up.

Typically, this is an indicator that the turn signal switch on the steerint column is bad. The switch can be removed and looked at and it will look perfect, but somehow it is burned out or otherwise inoperative. Been there, done that.

if heater not turning off just put a clamp on one of the pipes ,come on this car is eleven years old is worth spending all that cash when a simple brake hose clamp will suffice ,or join the pipes together with a piece of 15mm copper pipe