2002 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

This is a heated oxygen sensor and the computer is detecting that there is a problem with the heater portion not working. And the other code is caused because the heater is not working. This could be a fuse, wiring, a connector with a poor connection, or the heater in the oxygen sensor (replace oxygen sensor in that case). Generally oxygen sensors should be changed every 60,000 miles as a regular maintenance item. And when I replace mine, I get better gas mileage (also my engine is more lively). So I see this as a money saving thing myself. But just about everyone I know will REFUSE to replace their oxygen sensors for some reason??? Anyway information for troubleshooting and/or replacing this would probably be in an aftermarket repair manual for your vehicle (auto parts store). But this information would for sure be in a Factory Service Manual set for your vehicle which you can order from your dealer.

try hitting the gas tank hard when someone is trying to start the truck, if it starts then the fuel pump is no good.

There is no neutral safety switch with a manual transmission ! It has a clutch start switch located on the clutch pedal arm ! LT Green an purple an white wires !

well first try changing the gas filter check gas lines next if that dont work could be the fuel pump might not be geting yhe right power to it check the batery and wires . but you should just turn the key to on not cranking it to see if you hear the fuel pump makeing a humming noise tright away its working fine ?

Every horn I have ever found is on the passenger side at the front of the vehicle in front of the tire mounted to the frame. You have to remove the bottom cover to access them. Maybe the inner fender cover also.

Behind the grill or below the headlights. It will be tucked away in the front of the vehicle. Usually best accessed from below.

check fuel pump possible going bad, fuel pump doesnt give a trouble code

1) The next time you drive the truck, put gearshift in 3 not D. Engage Tow/Haul button. If problem goes away, it is the overdrive clutch in the transmission beginning to fail. If it does not go away, it is the torque converter beginning to fail. This is of course based on experience and not having driven your truck myself. 20 Check transmission fluid under a strong light. If there is very fine 'glitter' in the fluid, the transmission is doomed. If it has no 'glitter' in it but smells burnt, it may be doomed...but could be just old fluid. That could also explain the cluck to a degree--it could be fluid starved due to clogged filter (if you have had the truck more than 50,000 miles, and you haven't changed the fluid and filter, assume it's never been done). Don't change the fluid and filter yourself even if you could do it in your sleep...you'll be wasting your money and time, due to step 4. 3) If it has both the 'glitter' and the burnt smell, the transmission is doomed. 4) Go to a reputable transmission shop. Describe this to them. Tell them you want to be there when the pan is dropped. Tell them you will go somewhere else if they won't let you watch. When the pan comes off, look in the bottom for little chunks of metal (gear teeth, etc.). If the pan has a magnet in the bottom, see how big the 'donut' around it is; this 'donut' is the metal that has worn off the internals and been trapped magnetically to prevent it from re-entering the internals and causing damage. If the 'donut' is more than 3" in diameter, then most of the clutch surfaces are worn off, and rebuild is imminent. Chunks of metal = total rebuild, around $1500-$3000 depending on where you live and who you take it to. A reputable transmission shop will not charge you for a total rebuild if upon disassembly and inspection it is revealed that all you need is a torque converter. They will put new fluid and filter in when they reassemble and install. This could cost up to $600-$1500, but that's a lot better than a total rebuild. If it's the converter, you're lucky. If it's the overdrive clutch, it's rebuild time. And if the truck has over 150,000 miles on it, it is likely rebuild time anyway.

get youre wheel bearings checked. when they wear , the wiring in the hub shorts out and the abs lights comes on.

either the heater control or the lil motor that adjusts the door is shot. i believe the motor is on top of the heater box behind the radio for the vent function there is also a blend door motor on the side (hot to cold) of the heater box.unplug the vent motor cycle the defrost/ floor knob and test for power . no power bad heater control .power present bad vent door motor. auto wreckers are the best place for these parts (cheapest) some will also test/ install

Are you sure its a 5.7L? The didnt make a 5.7L in 2002. what is the 8th, and 10th VIN digit? what is fuel pressure when it runs, and what is pressure when it stalls.? that engine needs 55-62 psi to run. below that it wont.

What kind of truck and what size engine?

Have your battery and charging system checked.

These bulbs are not serviceable.Only a radio service dealer can repair radios.Even the G.M.dealers send all there radios out for repair.

It's a small electrical box mounted on the black duct work behind the glovebox. Has 2 screws holding it on there. It's about 3 inches long and 2 inches wide. The black plastic cover you look at when you first look at it had to come off and then you can get to it. Should be 2 7mm bolts.

Should be a diagram underhood. Need engine size etc. to find exact diagram online

I do believe it is rotors all the way around. I has a 2002 chev silverado 1500 4x4 and thats what was on my truck.

If the codes your talking about are p0171 or p0174, its more than likely a O2 sensor.

your vech must be moving try backing up wile pushing buttons

Here is a guide to help you Repair Guides Engine Mechanical Components Oil Pump 2 AutoZone com