1986 Dodge Pickup 4WD - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Sounds like fusible link. It's a thick (thicker than normal) wire coming from battery to junction block on firewall. They burn through and/or break down internally - you can replace it with an inline 30amp fuse & holder.

remove upper column cover to access switch,anti theft screws may be holding it switch on left cyl on right

bad or disconnected brake light switch

A simple test is to start the truck and the (be carful her) disconnect the Pos cable and see if stays running. If it shuts off when not connected it is the generator, alternator that has gone bad. See after the truck starts the truck should stay running on its own and also charge the battery. Hope this helps.

check if it is a petrol engine if you have any electrical problem like coil or crank sensor or cam sensor or idle speed control sensor

For rough idle issues and problem troubleshooting,go through the help links provided below :-----van idles rough?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.in/2012/01/2004-ford-freestar-van-idles-rough.html

--------- will not idle when cold?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/ford-explorer-40-will-not-idle-when.html

---------- runs lean and idles rough?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/ford-runs-lean-and-idles-rough.html

-----------Engine stumbles coming off idle when warm?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/engine-stumbles-coming-off-idle-when.html

------------Erratic idle on car?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/erratic-idle-on-car.html

---------- Low idle when cold out side?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/low-idle-when-cold-out-side.html

---------Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Replacing?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/gmc-idle-air-control-iac-valve.html

-----------Replace Idle air control valve? --------- Test Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve? ------- Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve operation?

----------Engine quits at idle?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/10/engine-quits-at-idle.html

------------Car overheats and Air blows hot at idle?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/car-overheats-and-air-blows-hot-at-idle.html

------While stop engine idles like cylinder missing?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2012/01/while-stop-engine-idles-like-cylinder.html

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This will help.

Thanks.

You may have a bad sensor.

If you have gas coming out of the top of the carburetor then you could have either a bad float, a stuck float or a bad needle and seat, all of which are inside the carburetor. The float rises with the level of fuel and shuts off the incoming fuel by pushing the needle valve against the seat thus stopping any more fuel from entering the carburetor until the fuel level drops slightly at which time the needle moves slightly away from the seat and allows more fuel to enter again. You could also have a piece of crud that has gotten between the needle and seat which will prevent the valve from fully closing but that's pretty rare. You will probably need to have the carburetor cleaned, inspected, and have a repair kit installed to fix the problem.

No if the clutch was bad you could shift it into the gears but would not move at all if the clutch shattered. However if your meaning you can't get the gear selector to move into gears then you have a different problem.

use a paper match book

try cheking uvjoint

change alt. have it check at autozone free of charge

YOU NEED TO TAKE THE INSIDE DOORPANELS OFF AND CHECK WINDOW WIRINGS AND CONECTIONS, FOR MOISTER AND BREAKS IN WIRES.

usually timing just loosen your distributer ,the thing wth all your spark plug wires going to it and turn slightly and keep testing your truck until you get it where you want it. after each slight move of half inch or so tighten it back up and fire the truck up to see if it dies.the distributer has a shaft on it and you will see like a half inch bolt to loosen on the intake manifold so yo can turn it

flush the colant

Wow, I had no idea that these engines were used up till 1987 in US trucks. The firing order is 1-4-2-6-3-5


Check out this site http://www.allpar.com/slant6.html

It shows the diagram and more.

I hope this helps.

Most likely:
1. radiator fan not turning. Check cooling fan fuse. Check loose/disconnected electric cable at radiator fan. Fan may be burned out.
2. Turn ON engine with A/C OFF.
3. Turn ON A/C to see if radiator fan starts up. It is supposed to turn whenever the A/C is on.

Few other possibilities.

you are looking for a green/white wire(+) and the blck is the (-) to be sure get a test light and clip to a good groung=d on the body and turn your parking lights on then probe the wire making sure it turns on and of with the switch(use a helper)

The mechanic should check if there is a loose wire that is not connected to the spare parts being said . then check the fuses if worn out or destroyed then replace them.Since it wont charge it means that there is a wire or fuses that are not connected or worn out.And proper connection should be done .Even though the spare parts are new but the connection is not in or according to the way it should be connected then it will not charge.

Get yourself a pressure tester. Make sure everything is as dry as possible, use compressed air if available. Top off the radiator and hook up to tester. Pump up not to exceed the psi on the cap. Then listen carefully and look with a light. If it's mainly on top of the engine, keep an eye on the intake gasket area and any hoses. This is your best bet of finding the leak, because trying to find it with the engine running can cause burns and you can't hear it leaking.